how difficult to change distributor?

[GEJ]

I like to ref number one cylinder @ tdc with the rotor on number one cylinder on the dist and the timing mark on the harm balancer @ 0 on the timing mark.Bump the engine over with that plug out and putting your finger over that number one plug hole.Ck the dist to see it is on number one and pressure is beginning to mount.Then turn it over by hand to get to 0 on the harm balancer timing mark.Mark the dist to the intake to get back the timing once you want to reinstall it.The oil pump drive slot will be front to back straight.That way if by chance I end up one tooth off,I can go back and ref the same point to correct it.

But you never said why you want to change the dist.

A 99 has no adjustment, bolts on only one way. Yes it is always smart to get to #1 TDC and take off that Negitive battery cable.

Hun???.Plse explain.

[kings-x59]

"If you have trouble with the oil pump tang, use a screwdriver to rotate a few degrees at a time, you can see it with a flashlight. If you mark the roter after it has turned from the cam, the cam wont turn as long as the negitive cable has been removed. And the distributor will fall into place like......well you know what."

Mike, that is exactly what I did. I'm going to be bit more careful the next time I pull a distributor and see If I can't mark the second position of the rotor, as you wrote in your first post. I had one of those, oh...duh moments when I read that.
I may get to test it out this weekend. The cam sensor buried inside the dist. of one of my jeeps appears to have crapped out again.

[mikedamech]

Sorry about my cyphering skills, that's what I meant to say. I just want to mention that the motors with have no adjustment have a driveability problem sometimes, the only way to check is with a bidirectional scan tool. If the timing isn't on 0 with the scan tool hooked up you can file away at the hold down but I don't recommend anyone doing this without an expensive scan tool.