Replacing leaky oil cooler lines

[MD/Astro\CL]

I was checking out my van yesterday when I noticed one of the rubber hoses had what looked like oil on it, so I investigated and found one of the oil cooler lines leaking at the compression fitting, it also looks like the filter adapter to block is leaking at the gasket/o-ring, and there is possibly a very slight leak in the oil pan gasket, right at the bottom of the timing chain cover. The leaks are a surprise to me because the van dosent leak a drop of anything and had plenty of oil. I checked out the posts about the oil cooler issue and don't want to remove the oil cooler but dont want to waste time and money putting another OEM line on that will just leak, so I had an idea. Has anyone on the boards ever put on stainless braided oil cooler lines? I've seen it done on diesels and race cars but I can't find anything on it for Astros. The kits they do make are expensive so I was going to buy the braided hose and adapters separately and have a local hose shop fit it together. Is this a good idea/has someone else done it? Does anyone know the specs for the radiator and adapter hose fittings and about how long each line is? Thanks!

[LiftedAWDAstro]

On the SPB, I replaced the leaking rubber sections with hydraulic hose and Swagelok compression fittings rated to 3,000 PSI. I love working in industry. I don't remember the length of the lines though as it was many years ago.

Here is the fittings I used. I am pretty sure the lines are 3/8". You would have to measure them to be sure. These are the absolutely best compression fitting you can buy. It is all we use in our plant.

[ihatemybike]

I recently repaired the lines on Green. I used a cutting wheel on a rotary tool to carefully remove the compression fittings and replaced them with pipe clamps. Works good so far.

[MD/Astro\CL]

Here is the fittings I used. I am pretty sure the lines are 3/8". You would have to measure them to be sure. These are the absolutely best compression fitting you can buy. It is all we use in our plant.

Will these work to completely remove the stock tubing with the o-ring ends? These stock compression fittings are giving me a headache! The wrench size is almost unheard of, 25/32, but the thread pitch is metric, 1.50. I was hoping to completely replace the tubing/rubber hose with a new line that is just 3/8 I.D. 1/2 O.D braided stainless steel but cant figure out a fitting that will keep a good seal on the radiator and filter adapter ends.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

All I did was use a mini tubing cutter and cut the metal lines just beyond the rubber hoses. All I replaced was the rubber section where they were leaking. I left the stock lines in the oil filter adapter as well as the radiator. The metal tubing is a standard size.

[MD/Astro\CL]

Getting some progress going on this, not nearly as quick as I hoped but the plan now is to keep the stock radiator and oil adapter fittings (don't have much choice) along with about 3" on each end of the flared aluminum tubing, get those high quality compression fittings and connect to 3/8" I.D. 1/2"O.D. braided stainless hose. oh, and if anyone wants to know entire length of the stock oil lines, the "top" line is about 63" long and the bottom one is 52" And the fittings are 20mm, not 25/32. Will definitely take some pics when it's done

[SoCalli V8]

You have a pm.

[SafariRob]

Warning: slight hijack of thread in progress.
Dean, I checked out the Swagelok link you provided and was a bit surprised to see that the flare fitting is AN but that Swagelok calls it a 3/8ths instead of an AN-6. I realize that a -6 is actually saying that it's a 6/16th in AN speak, but nowhere on the spec does it mention its AN designation. Hmmm.
Anyway, except for the expense, I like the AN style of fittings. On my Olds project, I intend to replace the rusty fuel lines (and add the necessary fuel return line for the Chevy TBI) with steel and use AN fittings at the fuel pressure regulator and the TBI.
Hijack terminated.

[LaGrasta]

If you do a search, you'll find more threads on this topic.

I removed my lines (easy), cut the swedged hose off (fairly easy) and added aftermarket rubber oil lines (cheap) with regular hose clamps (worked). I haven't had a bit of trouble and just returned yesterday from another 1,000 mile plus trip.

[robertg]

i caught mine leaking on my 2000 while getting it ready for a trip last march, and didn't have time to comfortably repair the existing lines...

i bought a new set, but kept the old ones as a backup set. i'll repair them when i am able to make time...