Switching to synthetic

[rlsllc]

... I also did a lot of research and found that most of the synthetic stories are myths.

...Exhaust pipe diameters. I was surprised when I dropped into a knock-down, drag-out fight concerning this.

Cam selection. I guess it makes sense that the very heart and soul of an engine could cause cyber fist fighting, but I think it would be better if the combatants would read all they could about cam theory before cutting loose on each other...

I don't care what you say, Rob. Your 305 would wake up if you slid in that .700" lift cam and added 4" dual exhaust. Bigger is better. Don't forget to take out the thermostat for better cooling, and run some High Performance 20w50 this winter.

Sound familiar?? Makes me nuts, too.

[phr1$k37]

Hmm Ok I just like hearing the opinions of what others have to say.
BTW have a read on this:
http://www.ftc.gov/os/1997/07/bluecora.pdf

I kind of suckered you into this one Petey heh he. But yah this is why I stopped using it a while ago. Again common sense and routine oil changes will be the best.

[peter]

GREAT! Now tell me that Santa doesn't exist and listen to the 6 oclock news about how I committed suicide following devastating information

I never knew they were brought up on charges. Did DuraLube and the others get the same deal? I swear that using that stuff quietened down the 5.7 in my Yukon & increased mileage by approx. 10%. I use it in all my service vehicles too, after the 1st 10k kms. Matter of fact, we only do oil/filter changes on the service vans at every 10k kms (6k miles).

I.....I...I dunno what to say. I...I....

[rlsllc]

Slick 50 = Snake Oil, not even a little surprise to me.

In the early 90's, I worked as a cable technician at an oil additive testing facility in Wickliffe, Ohio, called Lubrizol. It was the coolest freaking place I have ever seen in my life, better than Disney land. Imagine giant buildings with rows of hydro-dynameter stands, all different configurations, with set ups for testing engines, transmissions, rear axles, etc. Well, actually, the oils and fuels used in them. There were carbed Goodwrench 350s on many of them, some had TPI motors, and some had Oldsmobile engines on them. I asked about it and was told that they match the test with the engine that has the best torque curve.

The 700r4 rigs were my favorite, they cycled a test that simulated accelerating at ½ to ¾ throttle from a stop, through the gears to about 3k rpm in 4th gear, and they sounded so awesome. They’d hold 4th gear for about 10 seconds, go to idle, and about 10 second later, do it all again. Some of these were the TPI 350s. This test would run for days on end.

There was a building of diesels, #14 IIRC, freaking loud, one lab had outboard motors, 2 cycles, small motors, one had a giant John Deere tractor on a stand, I know it was used for several tests on different driveline parts, one was the wet brake system. It didn't have rear wheels, but was hooked to dynos. It was the only complete vehicle I saw there, everything else was a driveline stand, no cars on rollers like on commercials.

They had a fleet of Caprice taxis in NYC that they provided engines for, and would rotate them in and out for testing. The engines were those 4.3s that looked like LT1s. They would come in on custom pallets. It was really neat.

They had giant, fully equipped rebuild/teardown rooms where everything was measured and photographed for wear, and all of the oils were looked at extensively in labs.

It was like heaven seeing that place.

Anyway, the whole point is that they test oil and additives, for fuel also, and almost everyone I asked at the plant said that any quality, name brand oil is as good as any other, when changed at regular intervals, and the intervals absolutely depend on the use of the vehicle.

Extra additives are just that, extra. Unless you are a chemist, you shouldn’t be reformulating your oil. You may actually REDUCE the performance of the oil you use.

That is where I developed my method of changing oil somewhat by miles, but more by checking the level, feeling the oil, and most important, smelling it. In a healthy, non-leaking engine, once the oil level starts to drop, feels thin, or smells like gas, exhaust, or just burnt, it’s time to change the oil. Past time, if it’s obvious.

With my ’99, I’ve gone 6k and changed it, and I’ve changed it at less than 3k, depending on the time of year and what we’ve been doing with it. Highway miles aren’t always easy miles, especially a trip in the summer down south, with the A/C on. On my ’91, I haven’t ever got to 3k. It is all short trips, stop and go, etc. It also has over 200K on it.

Many cheap oils, like store brands, just don't have as much of the additives that give long service life, or are less stable if you get it real hot and will break down sooner. Some lack good detergent to keep things in suspension and limit deposits, especially long term. The higher priced name brand oils are more stable over time, because they have better additive packages.

This is, of course, not necessarily gospel truth. It is nothing more than the opinion I formed after talking a great deal with guys that have done nothing but test oil and additives for years. Some had different opinions, but this was what I gathered from most.

[phr1$k37]

Hey Petey -

Yes other companies where served alright. FTC and their findings (along with Car and Driver) had found that although true in most cases that these additives can quiet down an older motor, better mpg and a few other things the side-effect of pro-long use was worst and worst of all every single one of them would plug up something - think Teflon in the motor. Increased amounts of Zinc and other stuff which major oil companies remove so that it decreases the amount of damaged done to the CAT.

Mobil, Amsoil, Pennzoil and others all have a disclaimer NOT to use additives. Kind of tells you something.

But like many I tried the Duralube - I think it saved my butt that day with the Jaguar but I can also tell you that when I pulled the oil filter it didnt look right to me and I couldnt understand why. So I flushed the oil all of it and no more duralube as that was the only different thing I did.

Only a few companies fought back and "won" parts of their claims back. ProLong was one (funny eh?) and ZMec or something like that. But as you see from the FTC doc Slick50 isnt allowed to advertise certain things to mislead the public. I still remember this because I love to read a lot (you know like little boys reading all the specs off cars and so forth) and I remember why Slick50, Duralube, Wynns and a few others in my area changed their box or a "new an improved" but certain old statements did not appear anymore.

Oil change every 5000 or when it is dirty!

[ihatemybike]

Interesting reading.

AMSOIL and the 900k Mile Chevy Van

[phr1$k37]

Ah Son of a Gun ... yet another wonder article to make me REALLY want to have Amsoil. IT is like GOLD by the time I get it here. Soon I will drive down to WA to get my oil changed ;p HEY THAT isnt a bad idea!?

I just change on a routine - Penz Synthetic from the bottle, not recycled oil. Anyone in WA get Amsoil in?

[kamenz]

phr1$k37 save your cash and the drive to WA-read this.http://www.marshfieldnewsherald.com/app ... 10394/1980

[phr1$k37]

Well I dont need to drive to WA for that! I already use Penz which many people have mixed feelings on but I am fine with it as I use it out of the bottle and not a tank. Free oil change for next 1 million ON that truck? Or anything ride? Poor guy :( heh.

[ihatemybike]

phr1$k37, can't find an AMSOIL dealer near you? I found 3 within 100 miles of Whistler Mt.

[phr1$k37]

phr1$k37, can't find an AMSOIL dealer near you? I found 3 within 100 miles of Whistler Mt.

Is that Whistler BC? I know of two but they sell by BIG huge amounts not like even 3 4L or whatever - they want me to buy lots >.<
You use amsoil as well? blah ... purple fever coming on.

[ihatemybike]

Yeah, Whistler BC.

Not using AMSOIL yet, but will be after I get Green sorted.

[wagonmaster]

I run full synthetic in everything I own, including the riding lawnmower and H-D. Go ahead and switch and don't look back!~ Best thing you can do for your engines!

[Rebel]

I agree with Joe,,Castrol Syntec here and for you guys who may not believe it's slicker. The first time you use it, crank er up and take a drive but pay very very close attention to your foot on the go pedal and tell me what difference you feel. No hints at this time.
I also run synthetic and posi additive in the Vette rear.

[phr1$k37]

Anyone else out there using Castrol Synthetic? On the old board I made a post about using Castrol but it was not synthetic grade. I used it twice thinking the flush I did was not a good job (which I flushed with oil) and my Safari idled rougher than the pennzoil. Long since then I am running pennzoil synthetic. Anyways I oil change frequent. No filings which surprises me since I drive and down gear a lot as I really miss driving around in a big V8 firebird :( - was also using Pennzoil Synthetic in that ;p