Chevy & GMC Vans

I to have to agree on the color combo.. (I may be biased). As for the elevation change?? .. up looks good too!! hehe

Hey folks!
JMoney - The rear sway bar definitely makes a big difference! However,I haven't done the shock relocation tabs or re-installed the sway bar yet.Working out front alignment issues first,also not my daily driver anymore.
T.Low - Yeah,was told front end parts wear much faster with the hi lift torsion keys.But, I am planning on putting them in along with relocating the upper ball joint to the bottom side of the control arm.Hope this will get my alignment right!Also just picked up a 2-speed transfer case!
Moreforles - Yes,i would definitely do it again! I don't consider myself a mechanic by any means.But every time I look at it or get a compliment,I feel a sense of accomplishment! The pic was taken before I trimmed the fenders,so its not as tight with the clearance as it looks in the pic.
WVKayaker - I haven't paid any attention to mileage.Because I know its alot worse!
Plus as I mentioned above,not a daily driver anymore.Once the alignments done and I take it camping up to the Adirondacks,I'll let you know.I am considering getting another set of tires that aren't as aggressive.
crash - I know I'm biased! Always loved the look of your van!

I may go to a straight axle swap this winter. I think by the time and effort put into a ball joint relocation, I may as well go more durable and reliable with the SAS.

T.Low wrote:I may go to a straight axle swap this winter. I think by the time and effort put into a ball joint relocation, I may as well go more durable and reliable with the SAS.

Doesn't take too long after some wheeling to realize the IFS and crappy steering design really aren't strong enough does it? LOL

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:

T.Low wrote:I may go to a straight axle swap this winter. I think by the time and effort put into a ball joint relocation, I may as well go more durable and reliable with the SAS.

Doesn't take too long after some wheeling to realize the IFS and crappy steering design really aren't strong enough does it? LOL

I hope the IFS isnt too crappy as I just got my OV lift in mine but still have some more work to go before heading down the road.

I went with the OV torsion keys and new ball joints on bottom of upper control arm.
I also plan on removing the camber limiting stops per my buddies recommendation before heading to the alignment shop to hopefully get this dialed in perfectly.

The rear shock relocation tabs are going in today and I think the sway bar may be next from your recommendation Snapple. Sounds like you are giving it the big thumbs up.

I also just had the front and rear diffs rebuilt with new GM 4.10 gears. And the front diff now has a the Posi Lok cable installed to disconnect the front axle when in 2 wheel drive. ( I already added a NP231C 4x4 Hi/Lo transfer case a few months ago when my BW unit crapped out.)

John

jmoney wrote:I hope the IFS isnt too crappy as I just got my OV lift in mine but still have some more work to go before heading down the road.

I went with the OV torsion keys and new ball joints on bottom of upper control arm.
I also plan on removing the camber limiting stops per my buddies recommendation before heading to the alignment shop to hopefully get this dialed in perfectly.

The rear shock relocation tabs are going in today and I think the sway bar may be next from your recommendation Snapple. Sounds like you are giving it the big thumbs up.

I also just had the front and rear diffs rebuilt with new GM 4.10 gears. And the front diff now has a the Posi Lok cable installed to disconnect the front axle when in 2 wheel drive. ( I already added a NP231C 4x4 Hi/Lo transfer case a few months ago when my BW unit crapped out.)

John

Suhweet! Pics! Pics!

Well, git 'er out there and test that ball joint situation. Run 'er good and hard and see if you can't break it. Let us know how it goes.

I should have some pics to post later next week. This project has been pretty involved but Im sure will be worth it when done. We are going to pick out a paint color tomorrow morning and hope to have the whole rig painted on Sunday night. And still trying to come up with a final design on a front "winch/prerunner" style bumper to replace the stocker setup. Back bumper is already fabbed up besides spare tire carrier and tow/chain hook brackets.

jmoney wrote:I should have some pics to post later next week. This project has been pretty involved but Im sure will be worth it when done. We are going to pick out a paint color tomorrow morning and hope to have the whole rig painted on Sunday night. And still trying to come up with a final design on a front "winch/prerunner" style bumper to replace the stocker setup. Back bumper is already fabbed up besides spare tire carrier and tow/chain hook brackets.

ANxious to see your bumpers; pre runner style is on my list too.

jmoney wrote:I should have some pics to post later next week. This project has been pretty involved but Im sure will be worth it when done. We are going to pick out a paint color tomorrow morning and hope to have the whole rig painted on Sunday night. And still trying to come up with a final design on a front "winch/prerunner" style bumper to replace the stocker setup. Back bumper is already fabbed up besides spare tire carrier and tow/chain hook brackets.

Cool!
Can't wait to see the pics!! It always raises my ambition to finish my projects.
Look forward to seeing your the rear axle setup with sway bar /shocks.Also, a pic of your upper ball joints would be cool,bumpers,rear spare carrier...Hell,take lots of pics!!

Actually ran into a snag today. believe it or not, after getting the front and rear OV lifts in, the rear is actually sitting lower than the front by about an inch.
I have the leafs on the lowest shackle hole and are not looking to lower the front. So tomorrow I am going to do some custom fabbing to install 1" or 2" lift blocks in the rear and get rid of the stupid fiberglass leaf clamp setup for a traditional 2 u-bolt deal. I think I am going to try to use the factory curved lower bracket and a spare set I have of the same brackets (total 4) to create ubolt clamp mounts under the axle tube. Probably will weld them in place and just run the ubolts over the springs without any top plate. Cant understnd why you would need a top plate seeing its that way on my pick up and like 3 other trucks I have checked out today.
If anybody has any experience in this area with modding the rear spring mounts and wants to chime in... Please do.

jmoney wrote: So tomorrow I am going to do some custom fabbing to install 1" or 2" lift blocks in the rear and get rid of the stupid fiberglass leaf clamp setup for a traditional 2 u-bolt deal.

If you are making blocks to raise it, make them such that you can bolt them to the leaf packs. This way you KNOW the blocks won't spit out on you.

To do away with the clamshell setup may give you another headache. Peter did this with his 9" installation and 5" lift and had the u-bolt plate hit the frame on bumps. He had to grind off a bunch of the side of his plates.

Lifted:

Thanks for the block advice. We are actually waiting till tomorrow or Monday to make the changes... Still mulling over what to do. Were leaning towards removing everything from the rear end and starting fresh by welding on new spring mounting plates with locating holes. The obvious advantage besides having a more standardized system is that we can set the rear end exactly where we want with correct pinion angle and center it perfectly in the wheel well opening which isn't the case where it is sitting now.

jmoney wrote:Actually ran into a snag today. believe it or not, after getting the front and rear OV lifts in, the rear is actually sitting lower than the front by about an inch.
I have the leafs on the lowest shackle hole and are not looking to lower the front. So tomorrow I am going to do some custom fabbing to install 1" or 2" lift blocks in the rear and get rid of the stupid fiberglass leaf clamp setup for a traditional 2 u-bolt deal. I think I am going to try to use the factory curved lower bracket and a spare set I have of the same brackets (total 4) to create ubolt clamp mounts under the axle tube. Probably will weld them in place and just run the ubolts over the springs without any top plate. Cant understnd why you would need a top plate seeing its that way on my pick up and like 3 other trucks I have checked out today.
If anybody has any experience in this area with modding the rear spring mounts and wants to chime in... Please do.

Just so I'm straight on this.Are you leaving the fiberglass monoleaf in?As you know,I changed to the 2" heavy duty steel spring pack from OLV. My rear axle is a little forward in the wheel well.Locdoc pointed out to me at NECO,that he used the stock steel spring pack and simply had to turn around the spring hangers to center the rear axle in the wheel well. I may do this myself,but I'm not ready to drop the gas tank and mess with it right now!

Snapple:

I am using the OLV HD spring pack not the fiberglass leafs. A previous owner actually had updated steel springs installed prior to me purchasing the vehicle and installing the OLV lift.
I'm glad you mentioned flipping around the spring hanger. I saw that the spring mounting hole was not centered on it and was actually wondering if flipping it would make a difference. I am going to try it tomorrow for sure and let everyone know how it goes.
As for my height issue I still will be considering 2" blocks, just need to decide the best way to install them.