Chevy & GMC Vans

New member, just reading through some post.

Fuel pumps: After owning several of these vans and replacing 6 or 7 fuel pumps, I can tell you that the life of an aftermarket fuel pump is much shorter than you are going to want it to be. They will strand you AGAIN, within a year.

On the plus side, if you continue to buy the $40 aftermarket junk, you will get pretty good at dropping the tank in a vacant lot, off the side of the road.

Thanks for the advance information on the procedure. As of 13 September 2018 my Safari SLE went down HARD enroute - engine suddenly died and would not restart, on an uphill. No DTC's thrown when it happened. I'd previously changed out the Delphi fuel pump in a now-retired Ford E-250, but the pump/sender assembly was held on the tank that vehicle with a clamp ring with six screws and I could access the pump itself once out of the tank. The Safari uses an ultra-fine-screw-style lock ring for which I don't have the correct spanner (a General Motors J-series tool required in all Dealer service departments), and I need more jackstands than I have to raise the vehicle uniformly for my floor jack to engage the tank itself (a task compicated by running boards installed by a previous owner). Any additional tips here?

Hi Everyone,

Very good info. My 2003 AWD has 130,000. I have changed fuel filter every 25,000 miles or so.

I may cut a hole in floor and install hatch. We should post a card board scaled template to show where to cut the floor.

Thank you all for great ideas.

AP

Astrophysics wrote:Hi Everyone,

Very good info. My 2003 AWD has 130,000. I have changed fuel filter every 25,000 miles or so.

I may cut a hole in floor and install hatch. We should post a card board scaled template to show where to cut the floor.

Thank you all for great ideas.

AP

Smart thinking, @Astrophysics! On 1996-up passenger wagons with the modular-benches option (e.g. my 1997 SLE), the location should be immediately inboard of the left 2nd-row anchor point - I's able to locate the fuel pump/sender assembly in the horizontal and the fill pipe is to the immediate left on the tank. The actual floor cut is probably best done with the tank out of the way, as there are three QD hardlines for fuel and vapor plus at least one electric harness.

Update: :-S Plumbing fooled me! Pipes actually run along the joist above the fill pipe and go into flexlines ending in QD's that attach to the the pump/sender assembly, which is at is at mid-tank. The floor cut therefore needs be a joist back on the unit body from the fill pipe. Same cautions apply.

I ran across a Japanese second source: We know about the AC-Delco MU1782 (GM P/N# 19180091; FRU# 19331282, 25178736), a design upgrade for my 1997 SLE. But apparently NIPPONDENSO wants in on the backport action, and their Fuel Pump and Sender Assembly SX2774 is advertised as having an improved pump and turbine design. Both units have a weakness I identified in the form of accordion-plastic send hosing, which I plan to upgrade to FI-grade reinforced butyl rubber. (I really want to retrofit Aeroquip® triple-braid stainless, which is proof against everything that the major oil companies had to put into California 87-octane over the past three decades; but the cost is prohibitive as of 17 September 2018.) My question: Can the SX2774's pump stand up to methanol, methyl-3-butyl ether, and other nasty components which factored into the materials of AC-Delco MU1380 (GM P/N# 15036173; a specification pump and sender assembly for 2001-2005 M-Body with Regular Production Option K53)?

Definitely consider pulling back that carpet section under first row rear seat near driver's side of van,, locate the area and cute a floor access. A heck of a lot faster and easier than dropping and than reinstalling the fuel tank, plus can be easily accessed anytime in the future. Be sure to seal it back well and no one will know you ever cut the floor.

Howdy All,

Fuel pump replacement ideas keep coming.

Now, I have decided to drain the gas from the tank to make it lighter.
Then removing tank should be doable. Most pros suggest removing the tank and rinsing out the dirt and sludge from the tank by turning it upside down.
To accomplish the fuel transfer,
I am making a special transfer pump tool with a 12 V MR Gasket 7 psi 36 gal/min electric fuel pump mounted to a plastic box. I have 7 ft input hose and 6 ft output hose. The pump was $51 at Autozone.
I hooked up 5 amp fuse and on/off switch in line, and a 15 ft long cig light 12 v plug to plug into power outlet at dash of Astro.
Will send photo later.

AP

Howdy,

Test fuel transfer kit today and it works great.

See photo. Now, I will transfer 15 gallons out of my Astro so I can lower tank and replace fuel pump.

AP

that doesn't look like an Astro

Hi,

You are correct.
This test of fuel transfer pump kit was into a Ford Transit T150 wagon with the Ford "no cap " fuel filter. Ford supplies a special plastic mini funnel to keep the fuel flapper open.

Next use will be on my 2003 Astro. TheSAE 11/32" ID hose has a large OD of 3/4", that does not fit down the neck to get to the tank, so so I will swap to 5/16 ID true fuel line with smaller OD.


AP

Hi,

Got the AC Delco MU1380, for $188 from Rock Auto. Quick delivery in 3 days.
For my 2003 Astro this pump has the same electrical connector so no need to splice in the Delphi type connector.
I am watching several You Tube videos showing method of lowering tank and disconnecting the 3 fuel lines from top of tank after lowering tank a few inches.
Need 1 more weekend to finish the job.

AP

Hi,
Worked on dropping fuel tank on 2003 Astro.
It was not bad disconnecting 2 fuel lines from right side of tank after lowering it about 2 inches for access.

The electrical disconnect was up front. I used the trick of unbolting EVAP solenoid to avoid disconnecting that line.

The straps are secured by M10-70 x 1.5 hex bolts.
Shop manual suggests using new bolts.

The 2003 Astro has plastic tank protected by steel skid plate, nice.

AP

Hi

2003 Astro fuel tank

AP

Good tips. Thanks.
Lucky you still have your "skid plate", thought it's pretty thin and I don't think it could take much skidding. It's more of a flying debris shield.
Mine completely rusted and fell away.

MountainManJoe wrote: ↑Fri Jan 28, 2022 10:29 am Good tips. Thanks.
Lucky you still have your "skid plate", thought it's pretty thin and I don't think it could take much skidding. It's more of a flying debris shield.
Mine completely rusted and fell away.

Serious skid plates for four-by's are at least 16 AMG. Gotta design a full set for my M11006.