Chevy & GMC Vans

Skip I am trying to focus on one thing at a time.I need to finish the needed repairs on the LT and then I can get started and getting started is something I want more than anything.

Well next wk(weds or Thurs) the plan is to take the Ole Yellar to the shop and at it off the road to start the project.I am excited finally going to get to work on it.

1Gary wrote:Well next wk(weds or Thurs) the plan is to take the Ole Yellar to the shop and at it off the road to start the project.I am excited finally going to get to work on it.

Got any pix?

Hey man cool ride. You got me inspired. I'm thinking about doing the hightop cargo van too. The difference is I'm starting with a cargo and going to add the hightop from one at the salvage yard. I called the salvage yard today and they said they had a couple of them on some astros. They said $75.00 takes one home. Sounds good to me. I'll show you some pics of mine once I get it done. Good work so far.

I am jumping around on topics on this project only because I am responding to factors that are happening around me.My friend at a machine shop has been planning to leave for sometime now.He recently told me he is very close to quitting that job.We talked about options for the crate engine I have for this project.He reminded me that many of the crate engines are over bored to .040 already and that should be apart of my decision of a 383 stroke.On Monday I am taking the engine to the machine shop to be checked out for bore size.Either way,I would want it hot tanked,completely cleaned,new bearings with a polished crank,honed with new moly rings,new soft plugs, new rear main double lip seal,just generally freshened up if I do not go the 383 route.

Just one note on the 383 strokers from GM,they are standard bore blocks.They use a different crank to get the extra cubes as compared to the other 383's on the market. Just thought you guys would like to know this bit of info.

Slow going,but I got one head off with the parts bagged and labeled and I am working on the other one so I can take the engine to machine shop in a short block format.No pictures,working on a back-up computer that doesn't accept camera program.

Gary,,,you're gettin on the stick aren't you ?

Yepper Larry.I am glad I am taking this engine down.All I have known about it is just casting numbers and what I have been told.In the lifter valley I am finding caked on stuff.Surely I have seen much worse,but this isn't as clean as I would like it to be.The heads casting number is- 14102193 which are not the 1995 heads I thought they where.They are EFI's with 194/150's.Nothing special there.Either 383 or current size,I would want to clean,check bores,clean hone,and freshen it up.And either one I would want to change the top haft.and a roller cam change.The formula for intake runner sizes is .5 x the engine size.So for a 355 it would be 355 x .5 = 177.5 cc intake runner.I had had my eye on 180/185 cc runner heads for a 355 and 195 cc runner heads for a 383.They both have dual bolt patterns for later and earlier intakes.They both are cast iron heads.

Got the engine down to a short block.Going slow bagging all the parts and labeling them.Glad I took this apart.Seeing where some rust issues where starting to developing from setting too long.Nothing real bad,but not what I wanted.Hit it hard with LPS III.Lifter valley isn't as clean as I would want it either.Found the head casting numbers where EFI's from what looks like a 1989 5.7.Just a surprise I didn't expect.Thought they where 1995's.Not that it matters much because I intended to replace them anyways.Sure is important to know what you have through.That is the whole point of tearing this down.Going to tear it down to a bare block to save some labor costs at the machine shop.Might just buy a HF engine stand.Craigslist so far isn't producing anything.Still no pic's.........kind of what is the point when the puter that accepts my camera program is still down. Kind of bummed out about that,but would rather spend money on engine stands and a cherry picker right now.Really should get a new card for the camera and fresh batteries too.

More to come.............

Got it down to the last two piston/rods to come out.Then the only thing to do will be remove the crank and cam before going to the machine shop.I am finding rod bearings that look worn.The more I look,I am real glad I torn it down.The driver's side senor fell apart when I just touched it.The water jackets for the temp sensor are plugged with junk.It was no doubt time to refreshen this engine.Going to take my veneers next time I go to work on it and see if I can get a ruff measurement of the bores and pistons.Still got my fingers crossed for a standard bore.

Got it down to a bare block and I am calling the machine shop tomorrow.Measured the pistons and bores with my mic's and from what I can tell it is a standard 4" bore.That means if confirmed by the machine shop,it will be a 383 once it is done.

I have pic's and will post them once my XP computer is repaired.

In a attempt to make this thread more complete,here is what we have talked about in the past about the engine for Ole Yellar.


viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2110&hilit=Ole+Yellar+engine

Well my friend from the machine shop came over and we measured the bores with a dial bore gauge.It does have some taper in the bores,but it will clean up with a 030 bore.The rod bearings where rocking side to side and as I suspected they where about to spin.The back side of the rod bearings had some wear as well the front side.The main bearings looked good.So,I do without mag'ing and hot tanking the block do have a good block to build a 383.

Now it is going to be a matter of choosing which rotating assembly I am going to buy.I am going to look hard at 5.7 H-beam rods because they require less clearance issues with the pan rail.I want too,I think, a rotating assembly that is internally balanced.With 64cc heads I want to be able to run 87 gas,so the pistons I choose is important too.

As I am shopping for a 383 stroker assemblies,I found the following.

Both Eagle and Scat are a china import.

Some comments posted about the Scat cast and cast steel cranks that the rod journals where found to be out of round right out of the box and some cranks broke behind number one journal because they had stress cracks when forged.Here the breaking part I have to ask myself if the correct balancer was used or if the end user was straying the engine and caused the problem.Scats are finished machined here in the US.

Eagle are finished machined off shore and from the comments I have read are poorly machined.Rod journals are not usable and the cranks are in some cases,can't be balanced at all.

This is a early on investigation and as I find out more I will post that.

Another brand name I am looking at is Howards which seems to have a good history and is US made and machined.Costs more and has some weird stroke combo's.Question here is if you save on the cranks and spend tons more for custom pistons.