steel brake lines, when to replace?

[SafariRob]

Vinny, I got the 27 gallon tank from Autozone; it replaced the original tank perfectly.

[uncle-vinny]

Rob,

What did you do for the bottom plastic pan and the insulators? They are specific to the size of the tank. The one's from the 17 gallon will not fit the 27 gallon. I am asking for future reference. The only place I could get them when I did was from the dealer. Did you find an after market source?

[SafariRob]

Vinny, the plastic tub on my van was in good shape, so I reused it. Same with the tank straps. But the isolation material that fits between the tank and the straps was definitely trash. I made new isolators out of tar paper that I had left over from roofing my garage. I used 2 layers of it on each strap to be exact.

[uncle-vinny]

Thanks Rob. To get back to the brake lines for a minute..... One of the most helpful things I found was the PB Blaster penetrating cataylast. The brake line and fittings were very rusted and I had visions of breaking or stripping frozen fittings. I tried to plan ahead which fitting I would be trying to loosen. Then I would spray the PB on for five days in a row so it soaked for 24 hours then got another dose. I was impressed. Every fitting opened as easily as could be! It just took some patience. Many years ago I remember having a 1970 Torino that needed brakes and rear wheel cylinders replaced. I was impatient and used muscle. I wound up stripping or breaking every fitting on every line all the way to the front of the car because I would not stop and use a penetrating oil and let it soak. It was a hard lesson to learn. To put all your force on a fitting and a some point to stop and back off and let it soak and try it again requires patience I don't think I had any until I reached 45. So, If you are reading this and saying "yea, that's me", take some advice from from an old man who will be 60 and use P&P, patience and penetrating oil. It makes the difference between the job being fun to work on and it be aggravating.