She installed an extra leaf in her spring kit. Kind of like overload springs for a weary rearend (like that DL
![maniac laugh :muhaha:](./images/smilies/smiley_aahi.gif)
There was no body lift or longer shackle installed.The pinion doesn't change although the tailshaft end of the driveshaft might a hair.
Pictures suggest that there is a kind of lift taking place by adding a leaf thereby stiffening suspension.dunedog wrote:Frank,DL didn't really do a lift.
She installed an extra leaf in her spring kit. Kind of like overload springs for a weary rearend (like that DL)
There was no body lift or longer shackle installed.The pinion doesn't change although the tailshaft end of the driveshaft might a hair.
No, you didn't. And yesterday I actually (briefly) posted that you were wrong, but decided I needed to do some research to make sure I had my ducks in a row. And I didn't.... (I then deleted my response.)st4s wrote:
I don't actually understand why there should be no change in pinion angle as opposed to installing other shackles ?!
Did I get something wrong?
-Frank-
Right.mdmead wrote:(I'm assuming this was your point.)
Actually Matt, When talking pinion angle, we are not concerned much with the angle between the pinion and the drive shaft. We are mostly concerned with keeping the transmission or transfer case output angle and pinion angle the same +/- 0.5 degrees. Yes, you can have too much of an angle between the pinion and drive shaft but you need to be around 20 degrees to have any issues. but you MUST have the slip yoke and the pinion yoke within 0.5 degree to eliminate vibrations.mdmead wrote:We always talk about pinion angle and off-road guys know that keeping the pinion and transmission output angles in a stock relation (typically parallel) is the best course of action. I guess over the years I figured pinion angle was actually a measurement in relation to the ground or compared to the transmission output. Well, after reading up on it last night, the pinion angle is the angle between the driveshaft and the pinion. So yes, installing an add-a-leaf or level block DOES change the pinion angle. (I'm assuming this was your point.)
I thought that is what I was saying Dean! Sort of...LiftedAWDAstro wrote:
Actually Matt, When talking pinion angle, we are not concerned much with the angle between the pinion and the drive shaft. We are mostly concerned with keeping the transmission or transfer case output angle and pinion angle the same +/- 0.5 degrees. Yes, you can have too much of an angle between the pinion and drive shaft but you need to be around 20 degrees to have any issues. but you MUST have the slip yoke and the pinion yoke within 0.5 degree to eliminate vibrations.
Would lift blocks be allowed/available for composite springs?Rockwerx wrote:Yes, the shims go between the springs and the axle. You could also use a lift block which are usually tapered (to correct pinion angle) to give you some more lift.
I don't believe that you should use a lift block with the composite leaf springs. You can order some steel replacement springs from NAPA and have them recurved and add an extra leaf or two. The recurved replacement springs that some companies sell will loose their arch in a short period of time...especially if you are hard on them...ie trailer towing, extra cargo weight, off-road 4 wheeling, hotrodding, ect. The best way to lift these vans is to get custom springs made up. This way you get the extra lift you want, weight capability, and have your axle centered perfect in the wheel well.st4s wrote:Would lift blocks be allowed/available for composite springs?Rockwerx wrote:Yes, the shims go between the springs and the axle. You could also use a lift block which are usually tapered (to correct pinion angle) to give you some more lift.
Don't worry Christine, your driveshaft won't fall out.dumb lady wrote:OMG, I'm sooooo confused now!Just please, someone tell me that my drive-shaft won't fall out!!!