Brake Lines

[ScottS]

Hey Guys

Are the brake lines that run on the rear axle of the Safari the same as what is on the pickups ? Any chance of finding pre-bent lines that run along the axle - is there a GM part number for these lines ? I could bend them myself but if they are availabe I am going to make my lif easier

[peter]

Trust me, you're making a bigger deal out of bending your own lines than you realize. I was hesitant when replacing all the brake lines on ZZ, I wanted to buy OEM bre-bent lines for the whole truck. But once I got the hang of double-flaring, it was a breeze. Do yourself a favour, go get a doubleflare kit and bend away, Scotty

[fingernipp]

Im in the same boat. The rear line busted just behind the fuel tank in that typical area. Im extremely unfond of the idea of working on it laying on my back in the dirt trying to bend up the lines so i have been also looking for prebent. Ill go at it myself if need be, but really really dont want to lol. I just finished making new fuel lines for it as well, so im pretty sick of seeing the belly of the van and climbing under it over and over to get the fit right.

[ScottS]

I figured since the axle is probably from some chevy truck ( 1500?) that the brake lines would be the same too.

I have a roll of 1/4 Cunifer (http://www.fedhillusa.com) to redo it , I was just hoping to save some time.

I also have 2 rolls of 3/16 for the front , if the rear lines are any indication , the frnt lines will blow as soon as I fix the back. I did not get a piece longer than 10" off the van- it lterally fell apart in my hands.

I also have stainless braided hose for the frnt and back- I got them coated so I don't have to worry about stuff getting into the braid.

Eventually I will upgrade the rear drums to whatever we have been using ( Caprice ?) and the front calipers and rotors to ( 3/4 ton ?) whatever bolts on.

But these brake lines are truly scary. Everybody check 'em.

[Rileysowner]

I never did get the hang of doing double flares, but now I need to do the brake lines from the front to the rear on my wife's mazda. I guess it is back to learning how to do a double flare. Maybe I will have success this time.

[ScottS]

I reccomend the cunifer lines if you are going to keep the car- they won't rust - ever.

If using steel, cut the lines with a fine hacksaw or a cut off wheel - the tubing cutters I have been told , harden the steel , and make it hard to flare. Makes sense to me.

[Rileysowner]

I should try again. Of course I will have to buy a new flaring tool and I took it back when I got frustrated by my lack of success. I love places where the sale isn't final until the customer is satisfied.

[fingernipp]

Im probably gonna cut the lines to size and bring them to a shop to get the flares done. I can always look to rent the tool, but then ill have to put down a hefty deposit if its an expensive one. Im sure if you just come in with the lines most shops wont charge much to just throw some double flares on em. That copper/nickle composit stuff sounds cool... but im still weary of any copper like lines for brakes.

[peter]

I strongly advise against using anything other than a tube cutter. A tube cutter is the only sure-fire way to assure a proper edge on a flare. I admit that I never heard of this "cunnifer" tubing, mind you. But regardless, always use a tube cutter and ream the inside of the tube after the cut. Otherwise, your flares, double or single, will look like crap!

[Smiliesafari]

Double flares are not necessary. I've always used single flares. All that is necessary is they don't leak.

[mikedamech]

But not legal. What happens when you kill a bus load of nuns?

[peter]

Ooh, ooh, I know that one........

[uncle-vinny]

I replaced the rear lines on my 88 Astro. Remove the old lines and use them as a templates to bend the new ones. Copy all the bends exactly and lay it side by side until it is a perfect duplicate. Most of that can be done on the bench so the time spent on the ground is minimized. Use a scrap piece of new tubing to practice the double flaring. Most flaring tools come with a set of instructions. If you follow it exactly it works. When you cut the tubing make sure the cut is 90º to the body or it will affect the flair.

[SafariRob]

I'm with Jim on this one--I also bought a double flairing tool and blithely proceeded, while following the directions, to make my first brake line double flair. I failed miserably at it and the same happened with each attempt at making another flair.
As I was 18 years old at the time, I think I was traumatized for life by the experience. I just buy pre-made lengths of brake tubing now and bend 'em up myself. I get creative with the excessive lengths so the lines will fit.

[Jim in Indy]

Double flares are not necessary. I've always used single flares. All that is necessary is they don't leak.

Anything over 500psig of operating pressure, double flair !! A good stomp on the brake pedal can quickly shoot you past 1200psig, and have you doing a Fred Flintstone....