Chevy & GMC Vans

just curious if it's something I'd consider doing myself on my 99 ... any need to knows, do's and dont's etc...

thanks

Being fairly new to the whole wrenching thing, what would switching to a different distributor achieve for you in your '98?

riley i know some of the cores i see come through work the gears on the ends of them are very worn out and are noticible smaller some cracked but on a 99 i don't think that would be a problem but crash i have no idea what is required to change them haven't tried yet

Disconnect the battery, Mark the rotor to housing. remove bolt, lift distributor, the rotor will turn when it stops mark again at housing. To install, reverse.

... wow could you make that sound any easier.....

I like to ref number one cylinder @ tdc with the rotor on number one cylinder on the dist and the timing mark on the harm balancer @ 0 on the timing mark.Bump the engine over with that plug out and putting your finger over that number one plug hole.Ck the dist to see it is on number one and pressure is beginning to mount.Then turn it over by hand to get to 0 on the harm balancer timing mark.Mark the dist to the intake to get back the timing once you want to reinstall it.The oil pump drive slot will be front to back straight.That way if by chance I end up one tooth off,I can go back and ref the same point to correct it.

But you never said why you want to change the dist.

well.. trying to solve my hesitation problem. a new dist with cap and rotor is only around $25 more than a new cap on it's own. i fgured if it's as easy mike made it out to be i'd do it. if it was as complicated as gary stated, i wouldn't.. LOL

I've read other threads on the net related to random misfire codes and hesitation issues that those worn dist gears can cause the havoc i'm experiencing... and like I said.. for the cost difference, wouldn't it be worth a try? (depending on the easy of a swap)

You can do it!!!!!!!!! It's just that easy. In addition to what Mike said you'll want to mark the dist housing in reference to the bore where it sits. It doesn't take much of a variation from that point to throw a code.

I've done a couple of them. The one caution I have for you is that as you remove the distributor, the shaft will rotate as the worm gear disengages. This also rotates the oil pump tang that fits into the bottom of the distributor shaft. To install the new dist., the oil pump shaft has to be rotated counter clockwise to a point beyond the marked position of the rotor. As the new shaft slides in, the worm gear will rotate the rotor clock wise. This is a blind operation. I usually takes me several tries before I get the oil pump tang in the right position so that the rotor rotates to the correct position as the dist. goes in. Patience helps.
It would have been nice if the automotive engineers would have made the oil pump tang a bit longer so the dist. shaft could be partially seated on it and then the worm gear would tooth in, but they didn't. The oil pump tang and the gear engage simultaneously. This is the way it works on my '89 astro, and my '96 jeep anyway. If the later year models are different, I'm jelous.

crash wrote:well.. trying to solve my hesitation problem. a new dist with cap and rotor is only around $25 more than a new cap on it's own. i fgured if it's as easy mike made it out to be i'd do it. if it was as complicated as gary stated, i wouldn't.. LOL

I've read other threads on the net related to random misfire codes and hesitation issues that those worn dist gears can cause the havoc i'm experiencing... and like I said.. for the cost difference, wouldn't it be worth a try? (depending on the easy of a swap)

Naa,the way I said,is the way it got done @ the Chevy Tonn,NY engine plant where I worked as a engine tester yrs ago.Nothing changed over the yrs.It's easy-go for it.Worse case,we are here for ya man.You can do it.

Gary, you're method is correct if you aren't sure of the relationship of the reciprocating parts. (See, Petey, I can use those big words too).

Smiliesafari wrote:Gary, you're method is correct if you aren't sure of the relationship of the reciprocating parts. (See, Petey, I can use those big words too).

Be very careful when talking to Peter and relationships to reciprocating parts. After all,he twists his axles.

GEJ wrote:I like to ref number one cylinder @ tdc with the rotor on number one cylinder on the dist and the timing mark on the harm balancer @ 0 on the timing mark.Bump the engine over with that plug out and putting your finger over that number one plug hole.Ck the dist to see it is on number one and pressure is beginning to mount.Then turn it over by hand to get to 0 on the harm balancer timing mark.Mark the dist to the intake to get back the timing once you want to reinstall it.The oil pump drive slot will be front to back straight.That way if by chance I end up one tooth off,I can go back and ref the same point to correct it.

But you never said why you want to change the dist.

A 99 has no adjustment, bolts on only one way. Yes it is always smart to get to #1 TDC and take off that Negitive battery cable.

kings-x59 wrote:I've done a couple of them. The one caution I have for you is that as you remove the distributor, the shaft will rotate as the worm gear disengages. This also rotates the oil pump tang that fits into the bottom of the distributor shaft. To install the new dist., the oil pump shaft has to be rotated counter clockwise to a point beyond the marked position of the rotor. As the new shaft slides in, the worm gear will rotate the rotor clock wise. This is a blind operation. I usually takes me several tries before I get the oil pump tang in the right position so that the rotor rotates to the correct position as the dist. goes in. Patience helps.
It would have been nice if the automotive engineers would have made the oil pump tang a bit longer so the dist. shaft could be partially seated on it and then the worm gear would tooth in, but they didn't. The oil pump tang and the gear engage simultaneously. This is the way it works on my '89 astro, and my '96 jeep anyway. If the later year models are different, I'm jelous.

If you have trouble with the oil pump tang, use a screwdriver to rotate a few degrees at a time, you can see it with a flashlight. If you mark the roter after it has turned from the cam, the cam wont turn as long as the negitive cable has been removed. And the distributor will fall into place like......well you know what.