Chevy & GMC Vans

Ya' I know lol ........there has been a number of posts regarding idler arms but I can't find one anywhere in as.com.

1. how do you test them to see if they are bad?

2. how hard are they to get out and what tools will I need?

3. will I need an alignment afterward or will just a toe-in adjustment?


The steering in the ol' 89 is pulling to the right pretty bad.

thanks
Mel

I jacked both front wheels off the ground and then grabbed one and started to turn it from side to side while watching the idler arms. It was real obvious something wasn't right.

Other than a pickle fork, no special tools were needed and it was a relatively easy job.

I didn't have mine realigned afterwards. Probably not a bad idea, but in theory, new idlers should put everything back where it is supposed to be. (Actually, I don't think my van has ever been aligned since leaving the factory!......)

http://www.astrosafari.com/cgi-bin/ikon ... idler+arms

http://www.astrosafari.com/cgi-bin/ikon ... idler+arms

http://www.astrosafari.com/cgi-bin/ikon ... idler+arms

http://www.astrosafari.com/cgi-bin/ikon ... idler+arms

I can't guarantee all the links are intact, but its a start

And make sure that you use the Moog replacements, anthing else will wear out in a year or so and you will have to do the job again.

This does'nt look like a huge job. Even got a nice virgin pickle fork in my toolbox just waiting. lol

Go for it, Poorboy, there isn't much to the job of R&Ring the idlers. Getting the idler off the rest of the steering parts is the only part that may cause problems. I replaced both of the idlers on my 89 at the same time and both came off without a hitch. I didn't use a pickle fork, though, I used a screw type puller. Can't see why a fork wouldn't get the job done, though.

mdmead wrote:I jacked both front wheels off the ground and then grabbed one and started to turn it from side to side while watching the idler arms. It was real obvious something wasn't right.

What is that supposed to mean? Since I don't know what normal is, it is difficult to know what wrong is

I have a long trip to close to Harrisburg PA coming up, and as I was changing my oil I thought I would check the idlers. When I grabbed the Wheel (one hand at front one at back) and tried to turn it there was movement (I thought it was a lot of movement) of the idlers and much of the rest of the steering attached to it. Is that is what was meant by, "It was real obvious" or not?

Remember grease the idlers every time you change your oil.
Moog is no better than most and are getting TOUGH on replacing worn out parts, if they have not been greased regularly.
They recommend every 2000 to 4000 miles in their instructions.

I have never replaced any suspension/steering pieces outside of a shock upgrade. I'm now at 140,000. I believe regular greasing has done what it's supposed to in my case.

Mine came from the original owner who is a friend and a fanatic about grease and maintenance. My idler arms are slightly loose. The only time I can tell is when I'm pulling my utility trailer with the Harley and have a load in the rear of the van or the front of the trailer, in addition to the bike. I get a slight vibration at 75-80. Other than that it's flawless! With the added weight on the rear and the front slightly unloaded, the excess play in the idlers lets the front wheels shake at speed. I guess they shake a lower speeds as well, it's just that you can't feel it. New Idlers should cure it....

So what sort of things would be noticed while driving if the idlers are worn?

Pot holes and even cracks in the road are more noticable. I had a vibration at 45 MPH.
Just jack up the front ,one side at a time and grab on the wheel. Move it in and out and look in at the idler. Shouldn't have any play.

This is what Autozone suggests:

Idler Arm
NOTE
The following procedure requires the use of a universal steering linkage puller such as J-24319-B and the GM Steering Linkage Installer tool No. J-29193 (12mm) (or equivalent) for most models.

1. Raise and properly support the vehicle.
NOTE
Jerking the right wheel assembly back and forth is not an acceptable testing procedure; there is no control on the amount of force being applied to the idler arm. Before suspecting idler arm shimmying complaints, check the wheels for imbalance, run-out, force variation and/or road surface irregularities.
2. To inspect for a defective idler arm, perform the following procedures:
1. Position the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
2. Position a spring scale near the relay rod end of the idler arm and exert 25 lbs. (110 N) of force upward, then downward.
3. Measure the distance between the upward and downward directions that the idler arm moves. The allowable deflection is 1/8 in. (3.2mm) for each direction; a total difference of 1/4 in. (6.4mm). If the idler arm deflection is beyond the allowable limits, replace it.
3. Remove the idler arm-to-frame bolts.
4. Remove the idler arm-to-relay rod ball joint nut.
5. Using a universal steering linkage puller tool (such as J-24319-B or equivalent), separate the relay rod from the ball joint stud.
6. Inspect and/or replace (if necessary) the idler arm.

dunedog wrote:Just jack up the front ,one side at a time and grab on the wheel. Move it in and out and look in at the idler. Shouldn't have any play.

You might as well check for tie rod ends while your checking the idlers.

And how would one check/test the tie rods? And while I am under there, how do I check the ball joints. You know pics would be very helpful for this.