Chevy & GMC Vans

I could swear there were two really good posts on replacing the power window motors and I'll be danged if I can find them.
I have put this off forever. I found one that I believe CD Smalley posted, but the link to his write up was dead.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
the hunt continues...

Hi, are you putting in new motors or are you repairing the old? ..Johnny

I did a how-to on it with pictures and all last april........ But I think it was on the old board.......... lemme check around I know I still have the pics or at least some of em so I can write it up again when I get some time to do so lol.

EDIT: yup it was on the old board. I'll re write it tomorrow at some point. I'm just headed to work right now.

The way I have replaced the window motors is like this: Removed the door panel. Took duct tape and stuck it on the glass then over the window frame to the other side. This holds the window from falling down later. Unplugged the motor. Then drilled out the four rivets holding the motor to the door. Removed the motor and reinstalled the new motor with the supplied nut and bolts, plugged it back in. The nuts and bolts can be tricky as a couple are in tight places.

mattblackratbus wrote:Hi, are you putting in new motors or are you repairing the old? ..Johnny

I replaced the motor, window switch, lock switch, and window weatherstripping on the passenger side.

Thanks Lock, the duct tape over the top is what I did. I had remembered seeing that in one of the posts. I was concerned that there might be something else I needed to do. Those two bottom bolts are ridiculous to get to. Looking at the setup gm designed I can see absolutely no logical reason the access hole to the motor wasn't slightly larger.

Not a bad job at all, I even managed not to break anything.
Thanks for the input guys.

I'll have to keep an eye on this thread, as I have to fix the Safari's passenger window, motor makes noise,like it wants to work, but doesn't seem to be attached to anything, I can push the window up and down (manual power window)

previous owner must have had a problem with it sliding down, because he at one time had it taped up, ffrom the look of the adhesive on the glass and the door frame.

Ok glad your all sorted, the only reason i asked about new motor's was that on my van i bypassed the thermo overload switch in the motor and got mine working again. Having said that you would still have to remove the motor and fit back as per Lockdoc's post....Johnny

Moreforles wrote:I'll have to keep an eye on this thread, as I have to fix the Safari's passenger window, motor makes noise,like it wants to work, but doesn't seem to be attached to anything, I can push the window up and down (manual power window)

previous owner must have had a problem with it sliding down, because he at one time had it taped up, ffrom the look of the adhesive on the glass and the door frame.

Man, that's the height of convenience right there
that sounds more like the window regulator than the motor.
If it's not broken, I bet you'll find the nuts n bolts in the bottom of the door.

I didn't take any pics since there are a few other good posts somewhere here on the board about this.
If they've gone awol, I can always put together another post on this.
I have a replacement motor for my driver's side window, which still works, but it's getting a bit slow. So I'll be doing that one soon.
Replacing the motor is not a difficult thing to do.

potskie wrote:I did a how-to on it with pictures and all last april........ But I think it was on the old board.......... lemme check around I know I still have the pics or at least some of em so I can write it up again when I get some time to do so lol.

EDIT: yup it was on the old board. I'll re write it tomorrow at some point. I'm just headed to work right now.

That'd be great, if you 've got some pics you might submit it as a tech tip

OK....here's a couple of window motor tips. While you have the regulator out, tack weld the fastening nuts to the back side of the regulator. It makes reinstall much easier. The motor has a thermal protection device. This can be bypassed. You remove the plastic end piece from the motor. Solder a piece wire across the thermal protector and you're good to go. While you have the motor apart you can clean the armature and bushings. Provided the windings on the armature are in good shape you have just save yourself a few bucks. You can check the windings with an OHM meter. I've done both windows in the "Smilievan".