Chevy & GMC Vans

Alright, I'm annoyed. How the heck are you supposed to remove the half shaft?

I'm following the directions on http://www.autozone.com.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repair ... 528009c231

I don't understand step 15.

15. Remove halfshaft-to-axle tube bolts.

What the heck are the halfshaft-to-axle tube bolts?

I removed the wheel bearing assembly* thinking that would give me enough room to remove it, but it's still not enough. Should I remove the lower ball joint? What about the sway bar connection?

The inner CV just came apart on the passenger side making removal a breeze.


*The stuck bolts I've dealt with for the past several days.

Those directions at least number 15 you mention is for pre-97 vans. They had a flange at the axle that the inner cv part of the "half shaft" bolted together. 97+ have a spline that goes right on into the axle housing.

Have you already disconnected the upper ball joint? Here are the directions I have, I used this on the passenger side and worked just fine when I put the disconnect tube on mine from s10.

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

Unlock the steering column so the steering linkage is free to move.
Raise the vehicle and support it with suitable safety stands.
Clean the underside of the vehicle in the area around the front drive system.
Prior to drive axle removal, cover the shock mounting bracket, lower control arm ball stud, and all other sharp edges with a shop towel to prevent damage to the CV joint boot.
Front tire and wheel.

Insert a drift or screwdriver through the brake caliper into a brake rotor vane to prevent the drive axle from turning.

Drive axle nut and washer.

Brake hose from bracket on upper control arm.
Wheel speed sensor wire bracket from upper control arm.

Shock absorber bottom mounting nut and bolt.
Compress the shock absorber.

Support the lower control arm.

Upper ball joint cotter pin and stud nut.

Upper ball joint from steering knuckle using J 36607.
Loosen and move the stud away from the knuckle.

Suspend the knuckle from the upper control arm to prevent straining the brake hose.

Drive axle from the steering knuckle by placing a block of wood or a brass drift on the end of the shaft and striking the wood or drift with a hammer.

Drive axle from the front differential carrier by placing a block of wood or brass drift on the tripot housing and striking the wood or drift with a hammer. CAUTION: Do not damage the drive axle boots when removing the drive axle .
Drive axle from vehicle. CAUTION: Do not allow the vehicle's weight to load the front wheels, or attempt to operate the vehicle, when the drive axle(s) or hub nut(s) are removed. To do so may cause the front wheel bearing inner races to separate, resulting in damage to front brake and suspension components and/or personal injury . Important: Wipe the wheel bearing seal area on the knuckle clean. Check seal for cuts or tears. Lubricate the seal lip. If seal is cut or torn, check the wheel bearing for damage and replace the seal.

1996astro wrote:Those directions at least number 15 you mention is for pre-97 vans. They had a flange at the axle that the inner cv part of the "half shaft" bolted together. 97+ have a spline that goes right on into the axle housing.

Yup, skip this step, doesn't apply to 1997 to 2005 vans.

1996astro wrote:Drive axle from the front differential carrier by placing a block of wood or brass drift on the tripot housing and striking the wood or drift with a hammer. CAUTION: Do not damage the drive axle boots when removing the drive axle .

This is the proper way to remove the half shafts according to GM. A good hard whack with a 3# mini-sledge against a drift against the steel part of the inner CV joint of the shaft will pop it right out.

So the directions are the same really, minus step fifteen.

The wheel end is pushed out, the diff side is pushed out, but there is not enough room between the diff and steering knuckle or enough flex in the CVs for me to remove the half shaft.

When we did the CVs on my wife's Jeep the lower A-arm swung down enough to get the CVs by. Only real difference I see is that on the Astro I still have the sway bar connected, so I'm gonna try disconnecting it. If that doesn't work, I'll try popping the lower ball joint.

There is plenty of room to remove the half shaft with only the upper ball joint and lower shock bolt removed. You just have to pull one end or the other out first. Then you'll have room to pull it out. Don't forget to turn the wheel one direction or the other and this will free up a bunch more room.

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:You just have to pull one end or the other out first. Then you'll have room to pull it out.

I think Grumpy was trying to show just how special it is, cause I tried and there wasn't. However I can now say that I win, after disconnecting the sway bar I was able to push the lower A-arm down far enough for the diff side of the half shaft to come out.

attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?

I use a big ol adjustable wrench. Only get 1/6th turn at a time, but it comes off.

Cobra wrote:attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?

Princess Auto and some pocket change!

A friend of mine stopped by and picked one up for me after fighting with the halfshaft it eventually came out next time I'm going to remove the hub hopefully it will make life easier. Took me 5 hours to get one side out apparently I grossly overestemated my ability lol

potskie wrote:

Cobra wrote:attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?

Princess Auto and some pocket change!

Roger that. I always figure in the cost of whatever new tool I might need
when doing any job. Another few dollars for a big socket or wrench is pretty
simple to deal with when you're saving hundreds by doing it yourself.

I've got a Sears, Autozone and Checker all within walk/bike/horse distance.
Harbor Freight is 6 miles.


Lumpy

You played on "The Love Boat"?
Yes. White tux, huge sideburns.

http://www.LumpyMusic.com

Cobra wrote:attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?

When I did it I ran to Princess Auto and purchased one (actually a set of large sockets) which I have used several times since, so it was far from wasted money.

Cobra wrote:A friend of mine stopped by and picked one up for me after fighting with the halfshaft it eventually came out next time I'm going to remove the hub hopefully it will make life easier. Took me 5 hours to get one side out apparently I grossly overestemated my ability lol

The other side will go faster, at least it did for me. The first one is getting to know what you need to do. Doing the other you have that knowledge to work from.

it was a good learning experience i believe the other side will go smoother for sure. my tool box had the socket but that did me no good on the upper since cv was in the way. I found that the lower ball joint came out really easily just by treading the nut almost off then using a bottle/floor jack to lift the control arm by the ball joint, before the control arm came off the stand jack it popped out of the steering knuckle.
Lumpy you're absolutely right i don't regret buying any of the tools i own and i only have two i haven't used yet as soon as a get a garage that will change though.

horse you say.....? that sure would be a new one for me

This could be the wrong way, but last time I installed a CV shaft, I released the torsion bar preload adjustment bolt and took out the lower A-arm bolts. I had already removed the bottom shock bolt, and the sway bar end link. It was almost easy at that point, IIRC. I can't remember messing with the ball joints, but I may have.

The reason was, I was able to pry the old one out but couldn't get the new one in. Maybe I was holding my mouth wrong or something.