Pain(t) and Body

[Munken]

Here is a tip on how I usually do to make it easy to see uneven spots when I prepare a car for painting.

This car owner is a "I can" customer and did the bondo work himself.....
After I sprayed on the filler/surfacer I usually spay a very thin layer of over redused (about 150% more thinner than normal) black base.



Then I blocksand with P320 grit paper. (If you sand with a machine this tip is of no use) and it reveals whether there is unevenness. The dark spots you see are uneven, perhaps 1 or 2 tenths of a millimeter deep. The filler is approximately 4 to 5 tenths of a millimeter thick, so you have 2-tenths to blocksand them away. And don´t sand just the spot, sand the whole panel. At the left on this door you can see the "orange peel" surface of the filler.



After 15-20 minutes of sanding they are gone. It is a time consuming job, but be patient, it pays.



An alternative to the black base, is a black powder from 3M, just dust on and sand.



The P320 sanding is just for blocksanding to reveal and correct unevenness.Not to paint on. Before paint you sand with P400 - P600. And/or you spray on a primer that you can sand with a finer grit.

Do not use Acrylic Laquer, Enamel or Aerosol paint for the "mark paint", as it smear your sanding paper, even when it is dry.
Use a 2 coat base paint, it don´t smear.

[SoCalli V8]

I`m sitting in the front row of seats for your class, > Mr Munken at the bodywork and paint school here.

[astroturf]

I`m sitting in the front row of seats for your class, > Mr Munken at the bodywork and paint school here.

Darren, Have you gone to his paint page link in his sig? Worth a look. Jim

[SoCalli V8]

I`m sitting in the front row of seats for your class, > Mr Munken at the bodywork and paint school here.

Darren, Have you gone to his paint page link in his sig? Worth a look. Jim

Been there done that. Munken and I are Friends....

[astroturf]

I`m sitting in the front row of seats for your class, > Mr Munken at the bodywork and paint school here.

Darren, Have you gone to his paint page link in his sig? Worth a look. Jim

Been there done that. Munken and I are Friends....

Kewl

[Munken]

Done.......
Not so good pic, the camera is sh*t. But it´s the same door.

[Munken]

A couple of products I use.

Product Information from PPG Auto refinish.



D834 –DP40
Chromate-free 2K Epoxy Surfacer
D834 - DP40 Surfacer 1 vol
D835 - DP402 Hardener 1 vol
(in this I use)
807 Thinner 0,4-0,5 vol

D834-DP40 is a versatile 2K Epoxy Surfacer. It is light grey in colour, chromate-free and has
good corrosion resistance over bare metal.
D834 has good adhesion to a wide variety of suitably prepared substrates. These include bare
and galvanised steel, GRP,fibreglass, painted surfaces and fillers.
D834 is ideally used as a wet-on-wet or non-sand surfacer, but may be baked or air-dried if
required. It may also be used as a one-coat sealer over flatted 2K primers and surfacers, where
it fills sanding marks, rub throughs and promotes optimum gloss holdout in the topcoat.
D834 is also an excellent sealer for use over TPA finishes



2K HS FILLER D8022
Fast drying 2K Surfacer
Hardener D858

High Build Surfacer
D8022 3 vol 3 vol
D858 1 vol 1 vol
Thinner 807 0.5 vol 0.9 vol

D8022 2K HS Filler is a grey 2K surfacer with high film-build and fast air-drying properties. Suitable
for use under a wide range of PPG refinish topcoat, D8022 may be applied as either a high-build or
a surfacer simply by adjusting the quantity of thinner in the mix.
When used as a high build surfacer, D8022 offers up to 250μ film build and is sandable after
3 hours air dry at 20°C. As a surfacer, D8022 offers approx. 100μ and is sandable after only 2
hours at 20°C.
D8022 can be applied over suitably prepared polyester fillers, over sound, fully cured original
paintwork, properly preprimed -bare steel and adhesion primers. D8022 may be air-dried, low baked
or IR cured.
D8022 is not suitable as a spot primer under Envirobase basecoat.

[SoCalli V8]

Great info and great pictures.

[Munken]

The DP40 I use on bare metal before Filler/Surfacer. Can also be used on bare metal if you want rust protection under bondo. It´s a little bit slow drying, so be sure it´s dry before you
bondo or spray something on it.

D8022 I use as a High Build Filler.
If you don´t bake it, I recommend to let it dry over night.

[Munken]

FILLER 0310 1.841.0310
A 2K acrylic sealer that performs well as a wet on wet primer and
surfacer, and provides very good adhesion to bare metal. A good solution for
quick repair of car spare parts.

This primer/surfacer I usually "fill up" with PPG Deltron D721 jet black to make it gray and smoother,
I spray it a little thicker than a wet on wet primer and with a thin "black base" coat, and wet sand P600 - P800 before painting

[Munken]

I forgot to mention it.
ALWAYS use respiratory protection at work with paint, solvent and sanding.
It is often the small jobs that are dangerous, " I'll just spray this small piece, don´t need a mask" and next day only two small pieces, and so on...

[Grover]

I forgot to mention it.
ALWAYS use respiratory protection at work with paint, solvent and sanding.
It is often the small jobs that are dangerous, " I'll just spray this small piece, don´t need a mask" and next day only two small pieces, and so on...

I found that out today when I was prepping my rad support panel prior to welding today, the body guy advised me to use lacquer thinner prior to spraying on the black anti-rust paint. Holy I wasn't using that thinner very long but it sure knocks you on your butt after 10 minutes. Had to stop and go outside in the -15 windchill for fresh air.. if it was summer out could have had the shop door open for ventilation.

[Munken]

Harley pics added at "Paint Page"

[mdmead]

Some great info here for us 'paint-prep challenged' folks!

[Munken]

Here's a little tip.
If you mix paint and you have a lot in the can, it maybe splash when you stir.
To reduce the risk of splashing. Lift the can at the top (see pic) and begin to stir slowly, then you can increase the speed.
Because it hangs in your hand, the small movements of the can reduces the risk of splashing.
More paint for the van, less for your hands

(the pic is just because I'm not sure I explained right)