Chevy & GMC Vans

Hey guys.

I will be adding an auxiliary battery to power things like a fridge, kettle, lights, radio etc.
I would like to hear about your configuration if you have one.

For example:

• Deep cycle battery type: Flooded or AGM
• Location: Where on your Astro/Safari did you put your battery(ies)?
• Do you use a charge controller?
• Did you upgrade your alternator?
• Other tips.

You forgot ISOLATOR on your list. That way, you won't suck down the MAIN battery!

Thank you. I will be getting an isolator as well. Brand recommendations are welcome.

Have you had a chance to check out this thread... viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1418&start=0&hilit=aux+battery

astrozam wrote:Have you had a chance to check out this thread... viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1418&start=0&hilit=aux+battery

Yup, it was actually my starting point.
Later on I read that marine batteries aren't true deep cycle. They are a hybrid.
I thought I wanted an isolator, because I didn't want to accidently leave a switch on. But I read that the diodes cause significant voltage drop. Apparently there are better devices called Automatic Charge Relays (ACR, AKA combiners, voltage senstive relays, and electronic feedback relays) which don't use diodes.

Apparently you can also get multi-stage voltage regulators (your stock setup will taper-charge your batteries up to about 80%). But apparently they don't cooperate with internally-regulated alternators. (anybody know if our Astros have this by the way? Also what is the rating on a stock alternator?)

First of all,Are the appliaces you mentioned to operate at 12VDC or 120VAC ?
If 120VAC you will require a sine wave inverter.

Secondly the method used to choose the correct battery for a application is
to find the average use current draw of the appliances in a specified time.

Thirdly Whats your budget?
Doing a correct set up can add up quickly.

There ARE true marine deep cycle batteries on the market today.
Most folks get confused about Marine "starting" batteries & deep cycle batteries.

I already have a 1750W inverter, and it sucks my starter battery dry in no time.
Some appliances are 12VDC, some are 120VAC. For now, I've been using this neato Coleman cooler which works on a solid-state thermo-electric effect. It's not as cold as a fridge, but the current it draws is minimal and there are no moving parts. Eventually I may get an AC mini-fridge.

I was thinking of getting something around 100Ah, but it's definitely something I need to do more thinking about. My final decision will also depend on how much space I'll have for the battery.

My budget is that it should be reasonable. I don't mind spending a little extra if it's well spent. But I don't need something uber. I figure $500 at most.

I have to check around to see what's available. If possible I want to get something locally. A- I don't want to pay for shipping these weights. B- I hope do have it done by the 13th.

if your fridge is the major concern get an FP430 - EdgeStar Portable Fridge / Freezer - 43 Qt.. It uses a fraction of the power of the thermo-electric units. Just run it of your starting battery.
I have a coleman electric cooler and it will kill an 8D in 2 days.

Rotor wrote:if your fridge is the major concern get an FP430 - EdgeStar Portable Fridge / Freezer - 43 Qt.. It uses a fraction of the power of the thermo-electric units. Just run it of your starting battery.
I have a coleman electric cooler and it will kill an 8D in 2 days.

It costs $500. Ouch!

When I drove for a living, I had a 4 cu ft fridge in my cab, not one of those lame Coleman coolers.

timelessbeing wrote: It costs $500. Ouch!

I think you can get them for $399 shipped from compact appliances.

http://www.compactappliance.com/FP430-C ... rc=FROOGLE

And if you use Bing Cashback its $374 from compact app., and you should be able to run this cooler for a few days off your starting battery without running the battery down. If your worried about running your battery dead still, connect a Priority Start to your battery for $20.

still under $500.

Rotor wrote:

timelessbeing wrote: It costs $500. Ouch!

I think you can get them for $399 shipped from compact appliances.

http://www.compactappliance.com/FP430-C ... rc=FROOGLE

And if you use Bing Cashback its $374 from compact app., and you should be able to run this cooler for a few days off your starting battery without running the battery down. If your worried about running your battery dead still, connect a Priority Start to your battery for $20.

still under $500.

That sounds like an excellent fridge. However, I'm OK with the cooler for now. I only use it for camping. But perhaps in the future...

I do want to run other appliances (perhaps a micowave) so I still want to hook up another battery.

Thanks for the great tip though! I made a note of the fridge.

reaper wrote:There ARE true marine deep cycle batteries on the market today.
Most folks get confused about Marine "starting" batteries & deep cycle batteries.

Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates.
The so-called Marine deep-cycle batteries are actually a "hybrid", and fall between the SLI and deep-cycle batteries. These should not be discharged more than 50%. SLI batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA, Marine cranking amps". Any battery with the capacity shown in "cranking amps" is NOT a deep-cycle battery, and some marine batteries with MCA ratings may be a hybrid (basically a battery with thicker plates than an automotive battery, but thinner than a true deep-cycle).

timelessbeing wrote:

reaper wrote:There ARE true marine deep cycle batteries on the market today.
Most folks get confused about Marine "starting" batteries & deep cycle batteries.

Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates.
The so-called Marine deep-cycle batteries are actually a "hybrid", and fall between the SLI and deep-cycle batteries. These should not be discharged more than 50%. SLI batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA, Marine cranking amps". Any battery with the capacity shown in "cranking amps" is NOT a deep-cycle battery, and some marine batteries with MCA ratings may be a hybrid (basically a battery with thicker plates than an automotive battery, but thinner than a true deep-cycle).

Very good.
Case & point of what I stated above.
The buyer must ask questions/do reaserch homework in order to
make the correct purchase.
Several battery retailers will simply apply a decal to a "black box" & retail it as
a true DC battery.
When I was in the battery buisness It was important to educate this theory
to customers.

reaper wrote:

timelessbeing wrote:

reaper wrote:There ARE true marine deep cycle batteries on the market today.
Most folks get confused about Marine "starting" batteries & deep cycle batteries.

Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates.
The so-called Marine deep-cycle batteries are actually a "hybrid", and fall between the SLI and deep-cycle batteries. These should not be discharged more than 50%. SLI batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA, Marine cranking amps". Any battery with the capacity shown in "cranking amps" is NOT a deep-cycle battery, and some marine batteries with MCA ratings may be a hybrid (basically a battery with thicker plates than an automotive battery, but thinner than a true deep-cycle).

Very good.
Case & point of what I stated above.
The buyer must ask questions/do reaserch homework in order to
make the correct purchase.
Several battery retailers will simply apply a decal to a "black box" & retail it as
a true DC battery.
When I was in the battery buisness It was important to educate this theory
to customers.

So basically, you don't really know unless you cut the battery open.
Anyways, I saw "black box" deep cycle/marine batteries at Costco for $97 That means I can buy 5 of them for the price of one of the premium name brand ones.