AWD - cranking on the torison bar questions

[phr1$k37]

Hi guys!

I posted on the other site but thought I would do it here also.
I have the OverlandVan's 2" lift on with 235/75/15 tires I want to go just a bit taller with add-on-leafs.

If I were to turn up the torison bar by 1" what do I need to be concerned about? Do I need to change anything like steering column or whatever? Or is it seriously just a crank them the 1" and I am done?

I had a replies from a Dunedog and Blazer already and so I am hoping to hear from some of you AWD folks:

Click here for other thread on AS.com

[peter]

Other than a possibility of throwing off your camber (how much the wheel leans in/out), it's not really a biggie. I do recommend you make a note of how many turns your adjuster bolt is from fully screwed in, just so's to be able to bring it back to where it is now should you so desire. If the new setting works for you and you don't notice the top of the wheel leaning in/out any more than before, just run her as is.
AstroSafaris seems to be very forgiving when it comes to having the torsion bars cranked to the max. On my S-10, the CV joint rubber boots cracked every 10k miles with the bars cranked AND re-indexed keys on SkyJacker torsion bars. I've never seen any evidence of reliability being an issue on these vans, though.

[phr1$k37]

Petey!!! There are you!
Wow look at the record response time@ thanks!

Hmmm CV boot eh? Great.
Well I am asking because the Safari is also my daily driver. The other vehicle is very unreliable right now so it is sounding like cranking on these bars for the messily 1" is safe.

Uh ... this is going to sound noobish (which I am) but I assume cranking on the bolts which never have been touched is OK? Any need to lube them a bit first? When I looked I saw two hex heads one on each side that looks like I can turn

And I should measure from the bar to ground turning to get the 1"?

[Spike99]

I raised the front of my 2001 AWD Safari by adjusting its front torsion bars as well. It took me 13 x 1/3 turns of torsion bar bolt to give it a much better stance. Then, side effects (and counter adjustments) needed to be done.

If doing it again, I'd do the following in "one shop visit":
- Install New Front Shocks. Very important to reduce steering part wear.
- If needed, install new front tires.
- Only raise the front 1 to 1.5" higher. NO more then 1.5". For my van, 1.0" lift via torsion bar adjustment worked great.
- Get its front steering arms checked and if necessary, replace. Safari/Astros love to eat idler arms every few years.
- Check ball joints, front bearings, rims, etc. etc.
- Do a front end alignment via proper machine.
- Drive and Enjoy.

And yes, I would raise the front of my 2001 AWD van again. Just do it during "one shop visit" - to eliminate spin off adjustment problems later on.

Each time the front ground height is changed, the van needs a front end alignment. One cannot measure an alignment with their own eyes. Get it done properly with a machine. If not, steering parts will wear out faster. And GM / NAPA love to charge high prices for steering part replacements.

Hope this helps as well...

.

[WVKayaker]

When I had my torsion bars cranked up, I had new shocks and an alignment done at the same time. 4 months and counting and everything seems fine, no uneven tire wear and it along with the 2" lift kit and add-a-leaf it's been great! About a month later I had bigger tires installed. Now if I could just get my MPG's back!

[BLAZER]

Does anyone know if the TB keys are the same as the fullsize 1/2 ton trucks? Just curious as I know of a mod the FS use to get more TB lift by using different keys.