Chevy & GMC Vans

Can't seem to find an answer to this any where I look. I have the old encoder motor off and comparing to the new one (Cardone reman) they are not "clocked" the same. This concerns me as the Cardone part says to put the vehicle in 2Hi and I cannot since it's awd. The shaft coming out of the transfer case that the encoder slips onto is 90 degrees out from where it needs to be to put the new part on. There are all kinds of warnings about turning the new part, actuating it before installing it and being sure the clear the codes in the control module. I don't want to reclock the new part to install if it will void the warranty. Especially if there is a problem with the transfer case. I've even tried spinning the front prop shaft and rear drive shaft to see if it would allow me to move the small shaft the 90 degrees but no luck. Am I doing anything wrong here? I do not know any Chevy or GM techs and have spent most of my time working on VWs for the last 20 years.

Are the front and rear shafts supposed to turn together at all times on the AWD systems? I read somewhere (maybe in this site) that the encoder merely various the amount of slip between the front and rear using clutches. Is this true?

Right now it's up on jack stands and going nowhere. Thanks!

George

Is it possible you have an encoder motor for a NV246 instead of a NV136? From what I remember the encoder motor for the 246 works in both directions and has two ranges.

Your 2005 should have a NV136 TC

Pretty sure it's the right parts as they are identical. Gonna contact Cardone on Monday.

You should be able to turn the shaft on the transfer case and it should spring back. When the transfer case is not engaged you should be able to turn the front shaft somehow.

Your clutch fork may be stuck in the engaged position which may explain the 90 degrees out. With the TC sitting flat, or installed in the vehicle, the shaft should be vertical.

Or you could have a bad part

Drummernaut wrote:You should be able to turn the shaft on the transfer case and it should spring back. When the transfer case is not engaged you should be able to turn the front shaft somehow.

Your clutch fork may be stuck in the engaged position which may explain the 90 degrees out. With the TC sitting flat, or installed in the vehicle, the shaft should be vertical.

Or you could have a bad part

Yes to all: turn and it springs back, front shaft turns (in concert with the rear shaft however), the shaft on the side is vertical. I think the part may be clocked wrong. Any harm in turning the section on the encoder where the shaft goes in so they match up?

I don't think it would harm to move it 90 degrees although it might be a little hard to turn because of the way the motor assembly is geared.

Should be able to move it slowly. Practice on the old one.

If the new one does not move send it back!!.

If were in your position and had this new part and could not move it manually, I might try putting 12V to the motor till it moves to the correct position.

Drummernaut wrote:If were in your position and had this new part and could not move it manually, I might try putting 12V to the motor till it moves to the correct position.

Warning label on new part says not to activate encoder motor before installation or void warranty. I am certain I could move it manually, but not sure I should.

Just so you know, the encoder motor does not have an actual encoder position. The amount of torque applied to the shaft by the motor depends on the encoder signal sent to the motor. With no voltage to the motor, the clutch shaft, via spring load, will return the motor slot position to whatever the clutch shaft position would be with no torque applied.

In short, if the clutch shaft can turn the motor back to the right position, why can't you?

That is how I look at it.

If you are still unsure, wait and call Cardone. It looks like they just clocked it wrong after testing.

Drummernaut,

What you say makes absolute sense. But that means nothing where warranties are concerned with most companies!

I can only find a Tech email account at Cardone so I must now wait for a response.

Thanks for the information and suggestions.

George

This from their website:

INSTALLATION:
NOTICE: DO NOT OPERA
TE
MOTOR UNTIL INSTALLATION IS
COMPLETE, PERMANENT DAM-
AGE TO MOTOR OR TRANSFER
CASE COULD RESULT.
1. Apply a 3 mm (1/8 inch) bead of
silicone rubber sealant to
replacement motor mounting
surface. (Ford vehicles only).
2. Transfer any hardware from the
original unit that was not sup
-
plied with the replacement
motor. Some applications with
magnesium transfer case hous
-
ings use a formed gasket to pre
-
vent metal corrosion. This gas-
ket MUST be transferred to the
replacement unit.
3. Engage motor drive socket and
transfer case shaft (DO NOT
FORCE).
NOTE: IF SHAFT POSITION
DOES NOT LINE UP, TRANSFER
CASE SHAFT MUST BE ADJUST-
ED TO ACCEPT MOTOR.
4. Reverse removal procedure to
install motor using original
mounting hardware. Torque
bolts to OE vehicle recommend
-
ed specifications.
NOTE:
Over
-torqued bolts or mis
-
alignment will damage unit and
VOID UNIT WARRANTY.
5. Install remaining hardware as
necessary.
6. Use a suitable scan tool to clear
any existing ATC trouble codes.
DO NOT OPERATE MOTOR
UNTIL ATC CODES ARE
CLEARED

I see your point...

So I got a reply. Okay to re-orient the socket on the encoder motor to match the transfer case output shaft.--Done. Cleared all codes and drove. Pulls on all four wheels! Yeah. Here's hoping it's done! Now on to the DTC for the Idle Air Control!