SixSix Mike n' Jeannie's '92 Astro

[sixsix]

Here's that item - I used the " url] - /url] " doodad. I removed the left bracket so it would show right.

https://www.amazon.com/JOUNJIP-Plastic- ... 6HFH7?th=1

The funny / ironic part of the ad on @m@zon: One of the Pics and the text also show & talk about fixing broken headlight tabs.
Good find there dude.

[WoodButcher]

I got a similar kit, used on a bumper cover for the bride. I may use it in larger areas on the backside where it won't be seen.

[chevymaher]

I finally used it. It is nice. I fixed a broken speedo gear on the motorcycle. I melted PVC as a replacement castle gear. It is tough once it is cool.

[sixsix]

Well, now it's time to get "back to work"... needing something to occupy my time.
Looking back to the day I started talking of / working on / looking at / walking by...

The Van

Here's an excerpt from that First Post:

Well... more of a "Rebirth" or "Return"... to The Van we bought in '94 and enjoyed driving Out West back in '95. I really owe it to this tired old vehicle to "Make it feel right again".

Need to do / Things to do / Want to do

1) JY Fuel door release - Lever flops around - Cable end still intact - Latch still works
- update: got an OEM lever from JY, but was able to temp. repair the cable end / lever capture point.
2) JY Replace headliner / repair / visors - loose - entire - front to back - deadening - insulation
- update: got all that done too.
3) JY Engine fan clutch OR Electric fan & relay conversion
- update: R & R on the factory Fan Clutch
4) Cruise control not working - check all vacuum fittings and hoses - elecs. & servo system
5) Heater / A/C vent controls selector - chk. vacuum system - JY replacement dash control unit
- update: repaired / replaced dashboard control
6) Hard idle - in gear
7) Electric door locks balky
- update: locks fine after component cleaning & lube
8) JY Windows slow - one slows the other
- update: window motors reworked to perfect working cond.
9) Bad Ground - in dash?
10) Ammeter bounces with blinker
11) Engine elec. / Alternator noise thru stereo - AM - need RADIO GROUND TO METAL
- update: 3 above items fixed with ground chks.
12) Shocks - all four - would like smooth "cushy ride" OEM style
- update: rear shocks replaced w/ KYB Monomax
13) Body - Frame mounts / bushings - noisy over bumps
14) Stereo / amp. refurbish - heat - cavity in heater duct - wiring - door speakers/subs - insulation/deadening
- update: door insulation / deadening complete
15) Sliding door / bearings / clean / grease
- update: cleaned & greased
16) Door seals - silicone
- update: finished
17) Interior panels / Carpet cleaning
- update: finished
18) JY Seat belt latch covers - plastic shroud
- update: repaired / replaced
19) OEM Reese hitch ball carrier and locking retainer pin - ball set - offset? - extender?
20) Trailer wiring harness - permanent? - routing to plug - hideaway / swing up
21) Dents - minor above l.r. wheel & on sliding door/r.r. wheel well
22) Fog lights get working / rework - reseal - mechanical and elec.
23) JY Glove compartment release broken - 2nd time
- update: latch & lock replaced
24) Complete chassis lube
25) Steering / suspension component / bushings check
26) JY Rear stabilizer bar & related parts - JY?
27) Sound proofing, deadening, insulation
- update: ceiling & doors done
28) GAS MILEAGE issues - emissions systems, cat, exhaust
29) PERFORMANCE issues - head & intake work, cam, CAI - CPI vs TBI
Yeah, right... I wish

Got a lot done, have quite a few left.
And have a few new ones to add.

Pics n' Text forthcoming.


...baby steps



edit: forgot some "Bolds"

[augidog]

...baby steps

baby steps work, thank you for the update.

[WoodButcher]

Baby steps? shit! Looks like you got big bites off that list.
When I replaced my headliner it was a full blown project all by itself.

[sixsix]

That's funny, Bruce - since that post is an excerpt from one posted to the Evil Empire over 10 years ago.
7/28/2014

And there are additions to the "Ever Expanding" list:
- OEM Foglights Set - brackets, wiring & bulb/hsgs. The Van only needs the hsgs./bulbs. NOT TESTED
- Frame 78 Battery install w/ accessories
- OEM Multi Function switch w/ harness. LAST CRUISE COMPONENT NOT UPGRADED
- OEM Rear View mirror. Newer than my old one - sent by an admirer
- 3 more Doors to muck up / preceded by disassy., CLEAN, lube, oil, lith and/or grease
- Upper Side Door Guide Rod Covers - JY specials
- Battery Minder install w/ external plugin. NO OPENING HOOD, JUST UNPLUG
- Front KYB shocks. Looking for someone who has lifted and now can't use theirs...LOL
- Redo my RR KYB shock post - MORE CONTENT / LESS FRIVOLITY...

Plus these from the Above List:
4) Cruise control not working - vacuum chkd. OK - elecs. & servo system
6) Hard idle - in gear
7) Electric door locks balky
- update: wiring in jamb ?
8) Windows balky / slow
- update: door jamb wiring needs work
13) Body - Frame mounts / bushings - noisy over bumps
14) Stereo / amp. refurbish - heat - cavity in heater duct - wiring - door speakers/subs
19) OEM Reese hitch ball carrier and locking retainer pin - ball set - offset? - extender?
20) Trailer wiring harness - permanent? - routing to plug - hideaway / swing up
21) Dents - minor - above Lrr wheel & on sliding door/Rrr wheel well
22) Fog lights
24) Complete chassis lube
25) Steering / suspension component / bushings check
26) JY Rear stabilizer bar & related parts - JY?
28) GAS MILEAGE issues - emissions systems, cat, exhaust
29) PERFORMANCE issues - head & intake work, cam, CAI - CPI vs TBI

Wow, OLDER STUFF got longer... seems.
Tomorrow, I get started on the Battery R & R and the Battery - Related accessory ODDS n' ENDS:
- Duralast Battery
- Schumacher Charger
- Battery Minder
- Battery Quick Disc.

[sixsix]

We have been "Fighting" Battery & Memory problems since we got The Van.
Here's our latest "Electrical System" story.
Autozone - Duralast Battery - Frame #78 - Built-in Handle

About 2 years ago, we bought a new Battery for The Van - 1992 Astro / Gen I.
Left the Quick Disc. / Positive Battery lead connected and forgot for about 3 mos.
Worse thing we can do to a Battery, short of igniting it with C4, is to let it sit - slowly discharging for MOS.

I had pneumonia, on top of emphysema... it took a while to regain strength, willpower and most of all...
Ambition.
One of the last things I did, was take a few pics of what I did - so... here goes.

And remember: Captions go at the BOTTOM of published photos, etc. PUBLISHING INDUSTRY STANDARD.


3100 Batt swap Set up

A few things in this pic: The "Neglected" ( and Expensive, when not used ) Quick Battery Disconnect.
NOTE: I will talk of this "Lightly / Unused" item in a later Post.
Also in the pic - the RED Stereo Amp Fuse and the Harbor Freight Light ( handiest flash/work light EVER )



3102 Batt swap Set up 2

Other than the 5/16" wrench I used to tighten the NEG. Battery Lead to the Battery, the only tool size used was a 1/2" socket and a deep well.
I tried ( 2 ), then ( 3 ) 3" extensions to fit over the top of the Batt.



3108 Batt POS & NEG disconnected

I always used a 5/16" wrench to pull the Neg. Lead wire off the Battery - took me 10 years and 2 Batteries to learn the:
"Remove the Neg. Lead from the Radiator Support" instead. Much easier, cleaner and way less Hassle / Sparks.
Here we see where I have laid it by the Hood Support.



3110 Batt Back Clamp & socket

Yes, there is enough room for a hand and a socket / extensions to get back in there, behind the Battery.
This view may also show that the Clamp is (2) sided

Loosen the screw till just before you run out of threads.
Push the Clamp back away from the Ledge "Built In" to the Battery.
Use the "Built In" Handle to lift the Battery out.



3114 Batt Tray & Hrdwr

Seems the "Rust Stopper" was on strike the year I used it on this Tray.
Also disc'd. the E-Brake Cable and rerouted it outside the Tray to allow R & R of IT.



3116 Left Batt rdy for Hdwr

Time to move my Battery Hardware over to the new Battery. 5/16" & 1/2"



3118 Batt Neg Lead & Tools

Well, that lead is loose - S-K 5/16" wrench.
The other tools used, in the background: 3/8" ratchet, (3) 3" extensions, 1/2" socket and a deep well 1/2".



3120 Batt - MISSED Front Clamp

Not sure how common this is... but... when I put the new Batt. in, I missed engaging the "built-in" clamp.
The Battery Leads held it so still and secure, did not even notice...
And it is not the first time I missed it



3124 Batt Leads hooked up

1/2" Hardware for the Neg. Lead and the Black knob for the Pos. Quick Disc.



3126 Batt clamp nut & Magnet

Thru the years... I have tried numerous methods of holding hardware within a socket or whatever.
The magnet on the outside was not trusty, nor was the one stuck up inside for the nut to sit against.
Have also used hvy. grease when handy.
Wrapped the outside edge in light paper... held till it could not anymore... success.

Again, could have used my hand. Flipped the clamp over / less used side, washered and tightened...



3130 Batt clamp tool clrnc

Yeah, 6" of extension was a tad short.


Now, to deal with Aut0z0ne and their Batt. return time limit restriction.

[augidog]

I watched a roadside battery replacement on my friend's ex-1994, which is my parts donor now...

What a pain, the guy had to go back to the shop to get more ratchet extension. Even after that, he had to lay down under the van to a find the dropped nut too. I don't know exactly where he found it, but he did. That guy sure was happy to eventually be done, and outta there. It was "only" a battery swap, after all, but it took the better part of an hour.

On my 1995 the battery clamp & bolt is in front, a real game-changer. I just bought a new plastic piece, I think it was Dorman, and drilled the threads out of the tray for a through bolt that I could start by hand.

I was always impressed by your detailed posts somewhere else, and I see we can count on the same excellence here. Nicely done.

[sixsix]

... On my 1995 the battery clamp & bolt is in front, a real game-changer. I just bought a new plastic piece, I think it was Dorman, and drilled the threads out of the tray for a through bolt that I could start by hand.

I always wondered why they did the clamp thingie in back, to begin with.
1995 / Gen II ( or is it " one & one half " ? ) So... there is no 1 1/2 in tall welded bolt for the clamp, washer & nut ?

Since we're talking of Battery related stuff:


1001 New Batt & Disconns
About 5 to 7 years back, bought a new Battery for The Van. But with it, I got a few accessories for Quick Disconnection.
The Van, not being a DD, sometimes sits for weeks / months without a start.

Had not thought of an AC --> DC " Battery Minder " at the time. I will cover one of them in a Post coming soon.

Here's what we did in the meantime - I used the Bronze jobber on the right:
( Can't for the life of me remember why I bought those other 2 items )



1003 NEG Lead & QUICK Disconn
From top to bottom:
Top; The NEG. Battery Terminal Cable,
Middle; The Van Connection to the Starter / Alternator,
Bottom; The Battery-mounted, Heavy post, tapped for 1/4 - 20 hardware.



1007 POS Lead mount hardware
Just showing the isolation of power, so the Hand screw is the only power transfer set.



1009 Heavy Gauge Assembly
The large untapped hole on the left is the end that gets attached to the Battery.
This is not a light duty unit, it is heavy bronze throughout. Well thought out and manufactured.



1011 Battery Connection
I used a standoff nut with the 410SS 5/16" bolt to give more 'purchase' for a jump or charger clamp.

BE CAREFUL - The Battery has at best... 3/8" Internal Bolt / Screw travel.



1015 Battery terminal Protection
Big Giant Bronze "steel magnet" looked like it needed protection at first.
So I had a couple insulators to, well, insulate...



1017 Battery terminal Prot 2
So, that's protected and the doodads... they're kept in the " Glove Compartment ".

Next to our Gloves...

Next up: 110vac to 12vdc Battery Minder w/ " Weather Protected " quick disconnect plug.

[augidog]

No bolt welded in place (being in front it would probably hinder placing the battery) but the same plastic wedge and a bolt/washer that threads into the tray. Both were missing when I bought the van. My threads were all bunged up, so I went with the drill and a through bolt.

[WoodButcher]

Thanks dog, I need to make a new tray so I may go in this direction.

[sixsix]

Thanks, aug, for the post / drawing. Good point about the bolt sticking up and a nice fix on your part.
I recall the sad shape our tray was in - still intact, but rust covered.
Looks like the rust is trying to make it through the tray again...
Ended up rerouting the E brake cable outside the tray instead of through it.

Woody, we expect a fully documented covering of your tray upgrade.

Since we are talking about Battery & related gadgets - how about this:


1022 Battery Minder - Cen-Tech

I see these being used all over - in particular, Jay Leno's garage makes heavy use.
Very popular with the rebuild / storage / collector crowd.
This is another "thing" we bought to take care of the Battery.

Score So far:
Battery: 3, Mike: 0
LOL - Here's another "Action Shot":

1020 Battery Minder - Cen-Tech 2

Anyone have any suggestions for a quick plug-in for this Battery Minder unit ?
( not that I would use it - just nice to talk of it )

[augidog]

Anyone have any suggestions for a quick plug-in for this Battery Minder unit ?
( not that I would use it - just nice to talk of it )

Anderson Powerpole

71e5lkIsFOL._SL1500_-2409567547.jpg (65.77 KiB) Viewed 291 times

[MountainManJoe]

this trickle charger only puts out about an amp of current. These anderson connectors are waaaaaaaaay overkill. The ones in the image are designed for hundreds of amps (winches, inverters, generators, shore power etc.) My charger came with bullet connectors on the end , to which you can plug in either aligator clips, a cigar lighter plug, or ring terminals. I just bolted the ring terminals to studs in my fuse box. You might consider the same. Then solder splice or crimp on some 1/4" blade quick connects or bullet terminals. They costs cents and are more than adequate for the 14W of power this thing produces.