Need suspension advice

[chemist]

With all the stuff I do with my van, it really should have at least the same leafs as a half ton truck. So, adding a leaf seems prudent and that's what I've finally decided to throw money at.

http://www.overlandvans.com/0104_suspension.html

How hard are the add a leaf kits from overland to install--who has done this, and can you tell me how?
M9504-HS2 $140/pair

Adding a leaf causes a 2" raise to the rear. Obviously I should balance this by doing something to the front right? What do I do about the front?

What does this do to my diveshafts, steering, shocks, and other suspension parts? Is it just add the leaf and done, or are there other issues when I start doing this?

What if I just went for a 4" lift instead? Same questions.
http://www.overlandvans.com/0104_liftkits.html
L9506-4LK $620
or
L9506-4ELK $470

[Spike99]

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For my 2001 AWD van, I wanted to remove some of its "old age" sag (both front and back) and also help remove its factory rear mush feeling. To me, these vans should have come factory build with 3+1 mid leaf design.

For my van, I did the following:

Rear:
- Added +1 leaf. Simply called around and got different install prices. In the end, I found a shop that installs +1 leaf in my van. Was $150 less expensive then other shops in my area. With this in mind, do "shop around" - to save huge amounts of dollars as well. Adding +1 leaf removed "unloaded" factory mush rear suspension feeling. But, it raised the rear of my van approx 2.0 inches. And, front end went down because of it.
- Installed Timbrens with 1.25" spacer in its base plate. Simply called around (for best price in my area) and bought Timbrens for its rear. Took the steel base plate to my local welder guy. He welded 1.25" steel "spacer" on the Timbren base blate. Thus, allowing my bought Timbrens to properly work on my van's 2.0" lifted rear.

Front:
- Turned the factory Torsion bars to raise the van's front by 1.0-1.25 inches. Also installed HD shocks on the front to help reduce "front dives" - during braking. When I raised its front (via torsion bar adjusments), the rear went back down 0.5". Now, the rear of the van is lifted 1.75". Front has final lift of 1.0-1.25"

Mandatory Alignment. When both front and rear upgrades were completed, I took my van in for an alignment. Since I "touched" (sort of speaking) its front torsion bars, it needed an immediate alignment as well - to save its tires and steering parts (from miss-aligned geometry stress).

Note: I went with Timbren SES units on the rear of my 2001 AWD Safari because I wanted an easy "install it and leave it" type product. And, I didn't want to worry about possible air leaks as well. Too many previous "bad experiences" with air leaks. (so sad). Thus, even my new 2009 Montana EWB (to be picked up this Wednesday) will have Timbren SES "rubber chunks" under its rear suspension as well. I don't like the history reports of their factory air shocks / onboard air compressors either. But that's a different post - on a different van forum.

In the end, my 2001 AWD Safari was approx 1.75" lifted in its rear and approx 1.0-1.25" lifted in its front. And, it can now easly support its 1,200 lbs rear cargo load weight capacity. And, my middle son no longer gets 'vehicle motion sickness' - from its factory 'too soft" of suspension. To me, Timbrens on both front and rear should be "minimum" factory build. And, possible +1 mid length leaf in its rear as well - to have a 4 leaf rear system.

For more details about Timbrens on vans, surf: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm

If I had to do again (for my 2001 AWD Safari), I'd do the same suspension upgrade products / adjustments again. Except, I'd also get Timbrens SES units for the front wheels as well. Thus, reducing front end downward 'depth distance'. Especially during sudden brake dives - which is very hard on its front brake rotors.

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[chemist]

Okay, so all I need to do is add a leaf and turn the torsion bars for a little better cargo handling and slight lift?

Also, most of you have seen my posts, so you know that I can do basic repairs and such--but I can't weld or cut. Can I do this lift myself with getting killed from high tension springs being released? If so, do I need anything special?

I don't need to worry about diveshafts, steering, shocks, and other suspension parts right?

I ask because I've seen a lot of posts talking about various ways of lifting the vans, but none that actually address these questions.

[dunedog]

You'll be fine. The spring packs don't fly apart etc.,

[Spike99]

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A few moments ago, I stumbled upon a video that shows how to replace Leaf Spring packs on a Trailer - utility trailer. Very simular steps can be used to remove leaf springs packs and perform +1 leaf addition on your van. Hope this helps as well....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=CA&hl=en&v=Gtu3-VcaULw

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