It No Fit...

[robertg]

hey matt:

i was digging through a recent car craft magazine article, and they were highlighting the accessories for ls engine swaps.

there's a company named kwik performance that makes a passenger side bracket for a sanden style a/c compressor. the only thing that would worry me, is what kind of clearance issues you'd run into with having that a/c compressor up high.

BUT.... they show dimensions of how it fits. it might work, might not.

plus they sell direct.

http://www.kwikperf.com

[mdmead]

hey matt:

i was digging through a recent car craft magazine article, and they were highlighting the accessories for ls engine swaps.

there's a company named kwik performance that makes a passenger side bracket for a sanden style a/c compressor. the only thing that would worry me, is what kind of clearance issues you'd run into with having that a/c compressor up high.

BUT.... they show dimensions of how it fits. it might work, might not.

plus they sell direct.

http://www.kwikperf.com

Yes, this is the one I'm considering. I'm surprised there aren't more options, but I sure haven't seen much while doing web searches.

In my case, I'm hoping with my 5" subframe lift I'm going to include, I will have wiggle room top and/or bottom for any clearance issues. Either that or just cut a hole in the hood and have the compressor sticking out!

[SoCalli V8]

I`m following along with your build..... > hit me up if you need any Aldata specs, capacities, tightning torques or building proceedures. For any motor that you have there....

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Matt, great pics! Since you are doing the 5" BL, I would just raise the engine/trans/t-case up to clear. This should give plenty of room for the compressor and the oil pan. Just make sure there is room for the top of the engine. If you need 2" for the engine, just make some 2" spacer blocks for under the tranny cross member. You don't need to build a new cross member since the torsion bars are still there.

In this pic you can see where the trans mount is separated from the trans. Put the correct spacers in here. All you will need is longer bolts.

[mdmead]

Matt, great pics! Since you are doing the 5" BL, I would just raise the engine/trans/t-case up to clear. This should give plenty of room for the compressor and the oil pan. Just make sure there is room for the top of the engine. If you need 2" for the engine, just make some 2" spacer blocks for under the tranny cross member. You don't need to build a new cross member since the torsion bars are still there.

In this pic you can see where the trans mount is separated from the trans. Put the correct spacers in here. All you will need is longer bolts.

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I'm going to mock up a 2" spacer for the transmission and see if the engine then clears the oil pan. I'm pretty sure 2" won't clear the A/C compressor. In the one pic where the A/C bracket is shown, the engine is sitting about 2" up already. If 3" would make the difference, I could live with that. I'd hate to use any more of my subframe lift space on the bottom, only to discover I need more room up top. #-o

[peter]

Ditto on the spacers. I used 5" body spacers and about 1.25" engine mount spacers. No problems. The body spacers make a big difference in accessory clearance in general.

Oh, and I'm shocked.....

[T.Low]

Ditto on the spacers. I used 5" body spacers and about 1.25" engine mount spacers. No problems. The body spacers make a big difference in accessory clearance in general.

Oh, and I'm shocked.....

Why do i have this feeling that when Matty's finished he's going to show up in your drive way?

[mdmead]

Ditto on the spacers. I used 5" body spacers and about 1.25" engine mount spacers. No problems. The body spacers make a big difference in accessory clearance in general.

Oh, and I'm shocked.....

Why do i have this feeling that when Matty's finished he's going to show up in your drive way?

Sadly, I don't think he is losing any sleep over the prospect..... #-o

[Mr_Roboto]

It looks like it may be time to fab a set of motor mounts up. Besides that, you may try looking for accessory brackets off another application such as a car, van, vette camaro etc. depending on the brackets you have. I would be most inclined to think the van would be easiest to make work (similar body styles) but may be wrong on that.

[astrovan98]

I just completed my 5.3L conversion into my 1998 Astro, and I must say it was the most fun I have had in a long time. Mating the engine harness to the Astro was over 400 connections, but when the moment came, every one was correct and she started right up. Mind you I spend at least 5 days a week for 9 months building her, but she is my best project yet.
Wanted to add a picture, but this forum won't let me. It says "Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached."
Maybe another day.

[lockdoc]

I assume you are exagerating with 400 connections but man, I would really like to see some pics and hear some other info on this swap. Get yourself a free photobucket account and post some pics. I'm in the process of mating an LT1 harness. Very time consuming but I agree. It's fun. Especially with no time constraints. Just a bit when there is time.

[mdmead]

I assume you are exagerating with 400 connections but man, I would really like to see some pics and hear some other info on this swap. Get yourself a free photobucket account and post some pics. I'm in the process of mating an LT1 harness. Very time consuming but I agree. It's fun. Especially with no time constraints. Just a bit when there is time.

I'm with Bill on this one!

Let's see some pics and a detailed write-up! Did you use the electronic throttle? What did you do with your A/C compressor? Exhaust manifolds? Engine mounts? Pan mods? Details please!

[T.Low]

I just completed my 5.3L conversion into my 1998 Astro, and I must say it was the most fun I have had in a long time. Mating the engine harness to the Astro was over 400 connections, but when the moment came, every one was correct and she started right up. Mind you I spend at least 5 days a week for 9 months building her, but she is my best project yet.
Wanted to add a picture, but this forum won't let me. It says "Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached."
Maybe another day.

Holy smokes! (stands and applauds, nodding in admiration)

[astrovan98]

I haven't set up a Photobucket account yet, but I'll get to it soon. Here's some details of the swap.
2005 Silverado 5.3L LM7 truck engine with original PCM and full engine harness, LS 4L60E transmission, 2005 Tahoe exhaust pipe w/cats and custom fabricated balance of exhaust with Magnaflow 2005 Silverado 5.3L spec muffler and 3 " pipes.
Truck uses ALL emissions equipment and dianostic port for easy troubleshooting and repairs,

Hand fabricated engine mount adapter plates, standard transmission mount in original location, custom fabricated trans crossmember (to accomodate cross pipe for exhaust), factory 5.3L exhaust manifolds, modified 2005 Tahoe exhaust pipe with twin cats and all four O2 sensors, fabricated 3" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, all original style exhaust hangers in all Astro original locations to support system, new 4L60E transmission for LS series engines, electronic throttle and throttle control module (my year truck and PCM needed them, but they work fine), factory spark plug wires, slightly relocated coil modules (still on rocker covers), original Astro A/C system located in original factory left hand top location, Additional relay circuit to operate factory A/C compressor clutch relay, relocated alternator to right hand mid top location, fabricated alternator mount system with additional idler wheel and manual tensioner (spring belt tensioner removed, no problems with belt tension), recored (thicker) radiator modified with throttle body vent tube in correct rad location, custom 4" intake arrangement, modified fan shroud utilizing original thermostatically controlled mechanical fan (no electrics here), modified underhood fuse panel to accept 6 new fuses and 2 additional relays required to operate the 5.3L engine (the panel has empty slots to accomodate the extras), modified top of doghouse to clear A/C hose, various insulated brackets to prevent spark plug wires from contacting doghouse, modified oil dipstick and tube assembly (trans and oil dipsticks in original underhood locations), Aeromotive adjustable bypass type fuel flow regulator (engine only has a feed line, no fuel return to tank), fabricated heat shields to protect underbody and other items from cat and exhaust heat, and a lot more which currently escapes me.

My truck ran for 10 years without a problem or breakdown, so the premise of my design was to duplicate as much of the factory design as possible (for the Astro and the Silverado powertrain), to give me another 10 years of troublefree operation. It cost as much as a very good used car, but it was well worth it. Started first time (after I followed the factory procedure to reprogram my VATS system). Even the VATS reprogramming was super easy, it just takes 1/2 hour to do, and 99% of that time is waiting for the PCM to do it's thing.
I am and Industrial Mechanic and Machinist by trade, so it wasn't difficult, just time consuming. With a bit of patience and time, anyone can do this swap. Buy the way, I did all this in my 20' x 30' home shop.

[mdmead]

Is your van 2wd or AWD?