Just some misc pictures of Astros

[rlsllc]

1989 Safari on the scary stands



Van and donor



figuring out the motor mounts










This is what I came up with, the top plate is from a set of JTR RWD mounts; the other part I cut out of 1/4" steel. They need welded, they're only tacked.

[rlsllc]

Cleaned the sub frame a little, replaced the lower motor mounts with almost new ones that were on the RWD sub frame from the 1989, thanks to the good Captain for those, cleaned up the trans crossmember and the aluminum oil pan from the 4.3

[rlsllc]

This is the SM465 trans and NP241 transfer case. It is really heavy, and way taller than an automatic. I cleaned it up and installed the new throw-out bearing. I have a new flywheel and clutch, hydraulic slave and master cylinders, and a new replacement line for the project.

I need to figure out my transfercase shifter, I'd like to mount it to the case or trans somehow. I don't like the floor mounted shifter.

I have the cam, seals, and other engine stuff ordered, I will need to do all of that, and then put the engine in the frame and bolt the trans to it.

I have a set of 35" torsion bars with lift keys that will go in after the trans is in place so I can use the jack.

Once the subframe is assembled, I need to figure out where the shifter is going to come through the floor, and how much lift it is going to take to space things out right.

I also have 11" drums and steel springs for the rear. No rest for the wicked I guess.

[rlsllc]

Kinda feel like I'm talking to myself here, LOL.






My buddy welded up my mounts, sorry the pics aren't great, I'll get some better ones later. I think he did a great job, He said they would do for what they going on; he's a Ford man.

I have my engine all apart at the moment, I'll try for some pics tomorrow.

The cam I got from Jeg's had some rust on it so I have to return it. They're sending me a shipping label via email. Fancy, eh? I just hope the next one is rust free. I'll try one more then I'll spring for the Edelbrock Performer, which is basically the same grind, but cost much more. Sometimes you get what you pay for.

This engine is cleaner inside that any engine I have ever disassembled. 21 years old, but only just less than 57K on it. You would have never guessed the inside would be so clean looking at the outside, it was a filthy mess. Goes to show, you can't tell a book by it's cover.

The biggest bitch by far was removing the gasket from the back of the block where the rear seal holder(?) bolts on. I used several razor blades and dozens of assorted swear words. I sprayed PB Blaster on it, and I think it helped. I need to try changing one with that thing in place, it may be worth it.

Tune in next time, same bat time (prolly not), same bat channel.

[1Gary]

Roy looking good.Keep it coming bud.


With over 750 views,there is no way your alone.

[rlsllc]

Thanks Gary! I was just joking around anyhow. (insert thumbs-up smilie here)

[Smiliesafari]

You've got a captive audience, Roy. Looks good so far. Keep posting.

[rlsllc]

I'm not big on painting engines and stuff, but decided to give this stuff a quick clean and squirt some Rustoleum on it, gloss black, of course. No laughing from the Reaper crew, I've seen what you're doing and damn... I did forget to do the timing cover, I guess it will get a coat of the bbq black like the block.



Rear main seal, this was no fun, the engine stand made it tough, I felt like a contortionist during the process of removal, cleaning (bitch), and reinstalation. Side note: the Fel-Pro PTFE seal said to install DRY, man that was hard to do, I hope it doesn't leak. It also had "National" molded into it, not "Fel-Pro". Sometimes I hate new stuff.





Cloyes 9-1100 timing set, I put it in at 0* It is spinning (nice, eh?) a new cam:

200002 - JEGS Performance Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts Details
Chevy 262-400 1957-85 Camshafts

Intake Exhaust
Advertised Duration 262° 272°
Duration @ .050" 204° 214°
Valve Lift w/ 1.5 Rocker Arms 0.420 0.442
Valve Lift @ Cam 0.280 0.295
Max Lift Angle 107° 117°
Lobe Separation 112°
Cam Timing @ .050" - Opens -5° ATDC 44° BBDC
Cam Timing @ .050" - Closes 29° ABDC -10° BTDC

This is the same (I hope) as Mic had in the original 305 and tuned the ECM to work with it.



Installing the balancer, I used this on the timing gear also, with a pipe nipple, 1 1/4" I think, about 3" long. I am a cave man sometimes, but did not use a club (hammer) to beat this thing together.



Cleaning it up for the gasket, then realized I didn't have it. ](*,) I did, however, have two open sets of timing cover gaskets. I'm my own worst enemy sometimes.





This engine was from a IFS chevy 4x4, so it had a bizarre oil fliter offset deal that made oil dump all over the front pinion when you pulled the filter, and used a small (like the 4.3) filter. This was the solution, and it took the thinnest 1/4" drive 1/2" socket that I had. Jeg's should use socket head allen screws in their kit

I just hope the oil pan gasket shows up today so I can get this buttoned up and in the subframe, bolt the trans to it, and I think I want to get headers, so I will prolly pull the manifolds (that I put all new studs in, I am so indecisive ) and see what will fit with the front shaft in place. Since I lifted the engine 2-3", it may not be impossible to find something. Maybe I'll try a set for a IFS 4x4 chevy, I'm sure that even a set of shortys would be an improvement over the manifolds.

My buddy thinks I will lose 20 hp or so with the cast manifolds, any opinions out there???

[Smiliesafari]

Just two things................I always install my timing chain sprocket (crankshaft) on the 4 degree advance position. Reason: As the timing chain stretches the cam timing goes into retard. And don't be fooled into thinking that roller chains don't stretch. They do. At 4 degrees the stretch only allows the cam timing to move back to the straight up position. Another plus is that when you alter cam timing you fool the engine into thinking it has slightly more compression. My second thought is on the headers. It's a well known fact that headers help breathing. BUT.........at what RPM range is the engine going to be used 99% of the time? If this van is going to be a daily driver and only see something from 800 to a max of 3500 RPM and more likely a max RPM of 2500 with an occasional stab at the gas pedal (we all do that) then headers are money spent on something you really don't need. Spend that money somewhere that gets you to your final goal.

[rlsllc]

I'm with you on both things. For the cam, I would have advanced a stock or smaller cam, especially if it were carbed, although I would have went bigger with a carb. I should have verified with Mic that he had the other engine at 0*, I'm worried that the ECM will have a problem with the engine and that it won't run right. Technically, it prolly is advanced compared to the stock set, which I beleive is always retarded as much as 6*. I could have used the stock set, it only has 57K on it and looked new, but didn't for this reason and I'm putting stiffer springs on it.

For the headers, I think you are right, and I will just stick with the manifolds. That was my orignal plan anyway. The headers may be worth 20 hp (not likely) at 5000 rpm, but may cost me torque across the board. Having a stick shift, I'll likely keep the revs low, and it should cruise 60 mph at about 2600 with the 3:73 gears. That's a guess.

Good advice, thanks!

[rlsllc]

I started the day by digging, actually, fixing the trench from the new sewer line I installed, as well as electric and water down to my slab last month. I was very happy to lean the shovel in the corner when the Fed-X truck stopped by and I had the oil pan gasket.



I decided next to do the valve springs and seals. This contraption allows me to hook my air hose into my compression tester hose which fits the spark plug hole. My dad has a General store here in Bladensburg, and the problem is he only has general items, nothing specific, lol. That is why it took like 4 fittings instead of only one.



Removing the "Z28" springs and seals form the old 305 heads.



Removing the springs form the 350.




The seals. Don't put the O-rings on like this, it doesn't work. Put them on when you put the keepers on. Stuff them down with a small screwdriver. It makes putting the keepers in easier anyway.



Lots of work and parts, and looks exactly like it did when I started.



It is not often that I get anything new in the shop, so I have to celebrate my new trash can. My wife picked it up for me, 'cause I though it might help me to keep things picked up better. I decorated it with all of those awful decals that come when you order parts. Good use of them.

[Smiliesafari]

Your contraption looks great. Whatever works. You can remove those steel umbrellas that fit over the valve springs. They serve no purpose now that you have installed double seals. It will lighten up the valve train which in turn lets the engine rev a little faster. In itself it doesn't make a hugh difference but when you add up all of the little improvements they do help. I've found a place to spend the money you saved by not using headers. Roller rockers. They are a big bonus.

[rlsllc]

I got your tip too late Smiley, Thanks anyway!!



I adjusted the valves using the 0 lash and 3/4 trn method, you can do half with #1 at TDC; and the other half with #5 at TDC, more or less. It has worked for me before, so fingers crossed.



Primed it until oil streamed from every rocker arm.



Not only did I reuse the springs and seals form the 305, but also the blue rocker cover gaskets



Intake on.





My mounts work, but the motor favors the right about 3/4" too much for my liking. I can live with it, maybe I'll slot the holes if it causes too many problems. They are shoe horn tight.



Lifted the stand off with this old chain fall. It wasn't the best, but worked. I knew that I-beam would come in handy at some point. In the back of the garage you can see the 1970 Radio Shack speakers that jam Sirius Hair Nation while I'm working, and my little boy's popcorn tree.



Used grease and a socket (and hammer) to pop the old pilot bushing out. It actually worked!!



New flywheel and clutch disc I for got to get a pic of the pressure plate I guess.



I had to sit on the adapter and ride this thing like a bronco to get it together. I turned the engine 180* and 90* a few times, and it finally went together. It was the very tight new pilot bushing, and I think the disc was offset just a little.





This is how I do the torsion bars. Prolly not the right way, but has worked so far. These were from Gabequests van, they are the 35" bars, and are only a few years old and have lift keys.





Trans mount, this is heavy wall square tube, I drilled and tapped the bottom for the bolts. I know I could have cut the mount off, flipped it over, shortened it and welded it back on, but this was easier and If I ever need a new crossmember it will be a bolt in still.





Front drive shaft: It would not have cleared the crossmember without the lift. I can use the one I had for the 231 if I can find a swap joint that fits so I can put the rear flange from the truck on it, or use the truck one if I can put the front flange from the Astro shaft on it. The truck one may be pulled out too much, I need to check that I guess. The van one is actually longer.





Truck Y pipe, and it is real close to the torsion bar. I plan to do true duals on this when it is done, so it not really an issue.



I'm going to try different accessories, so I was checking that out. It's tight, I see why Mic reworked stuff like he did.



The intake is just sitting on there to figure out the accessories, but this is about what it's gonna look like.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Lookin' AWESOME!!!!!

[rlsllc]

Hey man, thanks! (Dean)

Some Neapco U-joint info, I'm putting it here so I can find it: (I may have some thing mixed up, don't take this as fact)

Spicer: outside lock-up, tabs, rings, etc

Saginaw: Inside lock-up, clips.

Both joints, astro shaft: 1-0445, which is a conversion joint, Spicer 1310 (1-0135) (spicer 5-153x) to 1310 SPEC (1-0350) (spicer 5-1201x) which has one side with inside lock-up, and one side with outside lock-up

Front joint, K 1500 w/ M/T: 2-1569 which is a conversion joint, Saginaw S44 (2-3011) to Spicer 1330 (2-4800)

Rear joint, K1500 w/ M/T: 2-4800, which is the common Spicer 1330

SO, maybe a 1310 to 1330 (1-0134), or 1310 to S44 (3-3130) conversion joint???

One possible problem, my current front Astro shaft was a custom that Mic had built, so it may be different. This may not matter, since I plan to use the truck shaft since it is stronger looking.

EDIT: I got the 1310 to 1330 (1-0134bf) joint at Auto Zone today and put the Astro front flange on the truck driveshaft, and I'm dropping the truck rear flange and the flange from the T-case to a friend that is going to machine a spacer to close up the slip joint. Hopefully the rear one goes this smooth and easy.