First post here. Been reading threads and elsewhere for a long time, trying to figure out my '96 AWD. My 4.3 may be in bad shape with the blown head gasket. I want a lifted van for road travel and moderate to heavy off road- but not rock crawling.
So... I'm thinking Vortec 350 out of a '96 full size van for best plug and play.
Not sure which lift. Either 4-5" OLV subframe kit/torsion keys OR wait for the much anticipated Dana 44 conversion- Gerald is trying to get to it.
Then, the transfer case. I like AWD (viscous) for snow. No one that I've found has come up with a 2-speed AWD that'll go for sure. Some have suggested the NP236 or the NVG246 but I haven't found anyone who's done it and it sounds complicated. I could consider NP231 or NP233 if there is a solution to the jerking in the snow.
If there's a better trans case/tranny combo, what is it?
Now, say this t-case swap is just too much for my wallet and/or ability level. Should I instead consider bigger brakes and a bigger trans cooler to make up some of the difference?
I'd say my skill set is strong enough on engines but this'd be my first big adventure in suspension modification.
What would you do?
How to build the perfect AWD?
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Re: How to build the perfect AWD?
Welcome! You have the addiction already I see!!!!
As one of the only ones here who has done both the 4-5" OLV lift and a Dana 44 SAS conversion. I gotta say for anything other than rock crawling, go for the OLV 4-5" lift, 31" tires, and 3.73 or 4.10 gears. I say go this way simply so you can get up and running much sooner. Gerald is going to have to build and then test a SAS conversion kit and that will take some time.
Now, if you have time to wait for the Dana 44 conversion lift (or the skills/money to do your own kit now), do the 350 swap and run the van to work out any drivetrain bugs. The only difference between swapping a V8 in with the IFS and a D44 is the custom oil pan. With the D44 you would use the stock oil pan...not a big deal. Get the 350 running smoothly, efficiently and reliably, get the cooling system upgraded for future wheeling heat (HD radiator swap), add a monster aux tranny cooler and then look into doing the D44 swap.
As for transfer cases, it is true the 2 speed cases can make the handling weird in some snow conditions. This doesn't appear to be as true for the guys out west. I don't know if it's type of snow we have, the crappy roads or what. Also if you do the D44 swap and eliminate all of the factory steering setup, you will have NO issues with pulling in the snow. Use a Truetrac posi up front and a Detroit or ARB locker out back and you will be good to go.
That'll get you thinking for now.
As one of the only ones here who has done both the 4-5" OLV lift and a Dana 44 SAS conversion. I gotta say for anything other than rock crawling, go for the OLV 4-5" lift, 31" tires, and 3.73 or 4.10 gears. I say go this way simply so you can get up and running much sooner. Gerald is going to have to build and then test a SAS conversion kit and that will take some time.
Now, if you have time to wait for the Dana 44 conversion lift (or the skills/money to do your own kit now), do the 350 swap and run the van to work out any drivetrain bugs. The only difference between swapping a V8 in with the IFS and a D44 is the custom oil pan. With the D44 you would use the stock oil pan...not a big deal. Get the 350 running smoothly, efficiently and reliably, get the cooling system upgraded for future wheeling heat (HD radiator swap), add a monster aux tranny cooler and then look into doing the D44 swap.
As for transfer cases, it is true the 2 speed cases can make the handling weird in some snow conditions. This doesn't appear to be as true for the guys out west. I don't know if it's type of snow we have, the crappy roads or what. Also if you do the D44 swap and eliminate all of the factory steering setup, you will have NO issues with pulling in the snow. Use a Truetrac posi up front and a Detroit or ARB locker out back and you will be good to go.
That'll get you thinking for now.
Current rides:
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition
Mileage spreadsheet
Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition
Mileage spreadsheet
Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy
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I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
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Re: How to build the perfect AWD?
I like your suggestions. I wanted to do it all at once but I can see how that could really make ironing out the bugs a bit of a nightmare. I was really hoping to drop the subframe to do the 350 swap and just lift it at the same time. Maybe it's worth doing the drop twice to do one thing at a time.
I'm not fully there with accumulating funds yet- waiting for a sale of other vehicle to go through- then I'll get on the engine swap.
I'm gonna have to see what the tires look like once the lift is done. 30" might be good enough. Don't want to go too low with the gearing because of fuel economy, highway use. (Or, am I wrong to be thinking like that? Most use will be asphalt, maybe 10-20% off road.)
Thanks for your wisdom. Doing this in stages will be easier to afford (or get away with) and to make the time for.
THanks for all the inspiration in your pics on this forum!
I'm not fully there with accumulating funds yet- waiting for a sale of other vehicle to go through- then I'll get on the engine swap.
I'm gonna have to see what the tires look like once the lift is done. 30" might be good enough. Don't want to go too low with the gearing because of fuel economy, highway use. (Or, am I wrong to be thinking like that? Most use will be asphalt, maybe 10-20% off road.)
Thanks for your wisdom. Doing this in stages will be easier to afford (or get away with) and to make the time for.
THanks for all the inspiration in your pics on this forum!
Re: How to build the perfect AWD?
I think it is very wise to follow Lifted suggestions.He has over the yrs developed a proven system that works.In terms of the gear ratio,AWD or not,I suggest you would find the higher ratio would get you up into the engine's power band and therefor you would push on the gas peddle less and save gas.It surly does help a bunch to move a 4,000 van better.
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......
Rochester,NY
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- I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
- Posts: 4379
- Joined: Sat Sep 09, 2006 3:35 pm
- Location: New Haven, NY
Re: How to build the perfect AWD?
When you drop the subframe, install the 2" body lift. This will give you more room above the engine for later maintenance work. It will be a breeze to do plugs and wires later on.
Current rides:
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition
Mileage spreadsheet
Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition
Mileage spreadsheet
Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy
Re: How to build the perfect AWD?
Don't forget that when you put bigger tires on you gear the van up. In order to keep your over all gearing the same as stock you need to drop the axle ratio down. 3:73 with a set of 41 would probably be fairly tall geared for the highway. Certanly better than stock tires and the same ratio.
1999 Safari Touring edition.
trailer tow pack with a 3:73 posi
Bucket bench seats, Rear heat, Rear Airconditioning.
teal green
300 000 kms
AirRide air bags in the rear to fix soft stock suspension.
Onboard aircompressor to make it all work nice.
trailer tow pack with a 3:73 posi
Bucket bench seats, Rear heat, Rear Airconditioning.
teal green
300 000 kms
AirRide air bags in the rear to fix soft stock suspension.
Onboard aircompressor to make it all work nice.
Re: How to build the perfect AWD?
Sorry if this is a dumb question, kidhauler, did you mean 31 inch tires? 41 inch might involve some creative cutting or bigger lift?
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Re: How to build the perfect AWD?
Umm...I know its been a while...but still working out bugs from ALL of the above! Things are going pretty well though!
2004 Astro AWD
4inch Overland lift, 265/70/16, Poptop Colorado CamperVan, 11inch Roof Fan, Custom Bumper...more to come on the interior
4inch Overland lift, 265/70/16, Poptop Colorado CamperVan, 11inch Roof Fan, Custom Bumper...more to come on the interior