Camper Van Layout Ideas and Help

[Taylorpdx]

Ok, Yeah, I just couldn't see how they connect from the picture. Thanks!

I checked out that calculator, which is super useful!!

Heres what I plan on running:
Koolatron cooler - 4a
Laptop Charger - 4a
LED Lamp - 4a
300w inverter = 25a (small I know, but I already have it for free, and probably will only use for small things like cell phones etc..)

total = 37 amps.

I ran the calculator for 60 amps to give me plenty of extra, and 8' for wire length (extra as well) and it said 8 gauge wire will have less than a 3% voltage drop.

Next question, this also means that I'm gonna want to use 60 amps for my inline fuses right?

Thanks again for all the info!!

[MountainManJoe]

Yup. You got it.

[Taylorpdx]

Hey Timeless, I saw on some old threads about battery set ups that you where re-routing the wire that connects the battery to the under hood fuse block to connect to the auxiliary side of your isolator instead of directly to the battery, giving you radio and interior lights powered off of the auxiliary battery.
How did that work out? Any issues come up? I was thinking about doing the same thing, but don't want to run into trouble if something weird happens with my setup and end up losing power to all the necessary electronic functions while I'm driving...

Anyone got other options for easily connecting interior accessories to a 2nd battery that is fairly easily irreversible if I have to take the battery and other camper stuff out for work?

[MountainManJoe]

It worked out fairly well, but it's still a work in progress. I'm using a battery separator though ... will you?

I can't think of an easy way to hook it all up to be reversible. It's not terribly practical.

[Taylorpdx]

I am using a continuous duty solenoid. I used a add-a-circuit fuse to tap into the fuse marked ignition-e (looks like that circuit enables the AC when the car is running) in the underhood fuse box to close/open the circuit.
I don't have the solenoid hooked up to either battery yet, but the multi-meter tells me its working great!!
I'd like to hook the fuse box lead to the aux side of the solenoid if its not going to cause issues. Like if for some reason the fuse I tapped into blows and the solenoid opens and I lose all power coming out of that fuse box.

[MountainManJoe]

So is the solenoid manually operated? I suppose that as long as you keep it closed after the aux battery is removed, the loads on the aux side should still work.

[Taylorpdx]

True, I'm more worried about what would happen if the solenoid somehow opens when I'm driving down the freeway (fuse blows, wire shorts etc..) and how I can avoid that sort of situation.

[MountainManJoe]

Keep loads that are necessary to keep the van running on the starting battery side.

Easier said than done ... I know.

[Taylorpdx]

Yeah, not sure how I would separate them, since the both fuse boxes are evenly divided between vehicle operation/accessory circuits and I don't want to actually re-wire individual circuits. I'll probably just leave it alone unless someone has some awesome idea I haven't thought of. Maybe just a manual switch to determine which side of the solenoid the boxes get power from....

[photo_van]

All my overhead lights automatically switch from main battery to house battery whenever the key is off. It works seamlessly! viewtopic.php?f=62&t=8396 I'm sure you could just tap into the radio "hot" as well.

I just got a couple of deep cycle gelcells for free, so I'll be putting them in to replace the PowerStation.

[Ozarker]

As to cabinets attached to the walls, screw furring strips at the top (a couple inches down from the ceiling) and half way down into the body ribs. (these run vertically)

In order to save the 1" space that the furring strip takes up ( a 1x2 or 1x3 on edge) you can notch the back of the cabinet to fit tight above and below the furring strip then use a metal flat strap screwing at the top and bottom of the cabinet frame and in the center of the furring strip. This is all inside the cabinet. This supports the weight of the cabinet above two furring strips as well as keeping them attached to the wall.

As you build the cabinets outside the van, you can build the back of the frame with the furring strip in place loosely fitted or a temp screw or nail. This is to fit the frame to the furring strip. If the doors are off and allow you to reach inside the cabinet while supported on the wall, then your furring strip can be glued and screwed as part of the cabinet frame. Then screw the frame to the wall.

The base cabinet or lower is attached to the wood floor and lower side wall, same method. Assuming you're putting in a plywood floor.

Another method is using 3/8ths or 1/2 inch play as your cabinet back and screwing that to the body ribs, then build the cabinet off the back with interior framing.

You have 3 ways basically for custom stick built cabinets in a vehicle.

Attachments should be along the wall for wall cabinets, not the ceiling and wall as a vehicle twists, flexes, expands and contracts and over time you'll end up with squeaky cabinets and lose attachments, wood and metal don't act the same way.

As to your power, go here: http://www.macandchris.com/IntroToDryCamping.htm

You'll find the basics from calculating needs and the types of systems commonly used.

That 60 amp fuse can be your main, but each outlet or run should have an inline fuse, sized to the load for that run or outlet. 10, 15, 20, 30 and sometimes a 40 amp fuse will be matched to the line ran. If you used a 60 amp on a line with a 10 amp load and had a problem with that device, it may not trip the larger fuse, defeating the purpose of having a fuse.

After reading that link under each category, you'll find your battery capacity needs to be twice what your needs are, not the same as a battery shouldn't be drained more than 50% keeping it in good health.

I got an automatically fold out van bed (electric) but it needs to be modified for the Astro :( that thing is also very heavy, can't carry it alone! So, my plans are changing (again) to a simple seat bed arrangement.

I'm considering 3 pieces of ply attached to the back of the stock back seat, it folds forward flat, the the two other pieces fold forward and to the rear, folding legs on the ends support the bed front and rear. This also allows storage under the seat and the unfolded bed. I'll use a Coleman Air bed, that should be fine.

I may add a storage box to the rear, kitchen or bath area, in which case the rear of the bed would fold down on top of that box, legs not needed.

I've customized several vans over the years, my GF worked in a van customizing shop for five years and I get tips from a relative who is the cabinet maker at a world class limo shop here in town. Too bad I can't get any work out of them, LOL.

Good luck with your build!