Phantom Rebel V8 Swap

[AquaAngel]

Video! Video! Video!

ROLF, Soon coming

[AquaAngel]

HERE IS THE VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUtFCVzC ... e=youtu.be

That was the 3rd attempt on the start as all my batteries that i had were dead, only a small one did the job to start her up.

Pretty SWEEEEEEEEETTTTT!!!!!

[doyoulikeithere]

Congrats, See you on the road soon.

[AquaAngel]

OOOOkkkkkk

The motor started fine, but i damaged my distributor shaft in the process of putting the motor in. So just replaced it today, did the break lines last week end and will be doing the front breaks next week.

Also got the down pipe installed and put in my new O2 sensor

The good old SES light lit up, so i decided to put my scanner on it and it came with the following


33- manifold absolute pressure sensor high
43- Electronic spark control failure
54- fuel pump relay malfunction

If anyone could shine the light on this as i have check all my wirings and harnesses and all are good.
The only thing that i could think of is maybe the fact that those are still from a V6 motor parts instead of a V8? as i did swap the ECU off a 94 Suburban ](*,)

[AquaAngel]

Some mistakes will cost you a lot of money and sadly enough, i have learned from it. Another 200 bux spent this week end for a Distributor shaft since i forgot to take it out when we put the new motor in.

Then i went back to Lordco "local auto parts" after reading my scanner with 3 faulty codes and one of them was the Map sensor. Close to 80 bux. I have yet replaced it, but since i am on holidays, i will do it during that time and will definitely check my wires that goes to the knock sensor. i know i have a good ground and i know my KS was for a V8 and still comes out with a code, so i will have to see what is going in there.

Also have a fuel pump relay code as i think i still have one in spare or if all fails, i'll put the original ECU back in the van and replace only the CHIP.

[1Gary]

Sometimes it is the first code causing the rest to go off.

[AquaAngel]

True to that, I just found out that my fuel pump relay is compatible with the v8 ecu as only two parts number fits and mine already on my astro is a match. So that is a good thing.

Just need to slap that map sensor back in it and will see if all goes well and will trace the wiring issue with my knock sensor. And hope I won't read anymore of that sea light to lit up

[AquaAngel]

Well a little got done today as I replaced my map sensor and checked all my wires for the fuel pump relay and all is good so far, but sadly enough, I still have that code 43 for ignition failure.

I checked the wire and the wire is good. checked the voltage and reading 4.97 volt at the end of the wire

According to what I read. Around 5 volt is good, under 4 is bad
So my ecu is working and I am starting to wonder if my timing is off.

The van starts first time and the idle is good and even though I don't have a full exhaust attached to it, it doesn't smell foul when I step on the gas.

So I'm on a stand still trying to read more into this code 43 as I did had that wire strapped around an ignition wire that could of set off that code, but no, I remove the wire and put it away from any source of ignition and I still have that code.

Mine boggling

[AquaAngel]

Well i found more info around about the code 43 and for those doing a V8 swap like me, i just thought i should share it with you guys.

"If you're getting a DTC 43, you need to check the Knock Sensor first. The knock sensor is located on the side of the block, right above and in front of the starter motor.

Unplug the knock sensor and turn the key on. Using a voltmeter, check voltage between the knock sensor wire and ground, should get exactly 5 volts. If you have 0 volts, you have a bad PCM.

If you have 5V at the sensor wire, use an ammeter to check the knock sensor resistance. You should get 3300-4500 ohms between the knock sensor terminal and engine ground. If the resistance is out of range, replace the knock sensor. If the knock sensor resistance is within spec, then you will need to replace the ESC module located inside the PCM cover."

So did put back my ECU from my original V6 Astro back in there, but did replace the Rom chip and sadly enough, the codes came back. So i left the battery disconnected over night and will check my KS see if i get the right resistance showed about in the quote.

[AquaAngel]

Here is pic of da beast.



will be working still on it today until i figure out what is going with the Codes. BUT she is looking pretty.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

While I can't help you on the engine troubles, I do have to say it is looking good! I like the AT's, wheels and visor! Hope you get her done and running smooth!

[AquaAngel]

Thanks Lifted. she is getting there, baby steps, not fast enough for my taste. but it is getting there.

Now back to the issue?
i can't believe it. My new Ks is hooped, im not reading anything of it. I have taken another one out off my older model V8 350 off the Suburban and currently reading 3.8 Kohm or 3800 Ohm.
So i'll be losing a bit of coolant and will be messy, but i think i solve the issue.
Will keep you guys posted.

Update:
The new KS broke off. ha;f of it was on my socket and the rest "threaded " part is still on the block, So i'm gonna have to say that i will have to call it day for now unless there is a tool that we can remove the left over, but for the time being? i'll stop at my favorite Lordco store and get an adapter to relocate that KS which will be on the driver side close to the oil filter. Hope this will do the trick

[1Gary]

There is a member that has been around this site for a very longtime that somewhat knows about computer V8 swaps.His user name is Mr_Roboto.PM him and maybe he can give you some ideas.

[AquaAngel]

Thanks gary, looks like i found the problem, but will pm him if that turns out to be a head banger afterwards. ;)

[AquaAngel]

FINALLY!!!!!! Some good news after some BS going from yesterday. tried to replace my knock sensor after my scanner found some issues that came down with 3 codes. 2 of got out of the way after replacing my Map sensor and fuel pump relay,
Later to find out my Knock sensor was hooped even though it was a new one. so broke off my new one from the block. GRRRRRRR



So i tried to remove it and still a no go as it was way to tight to fool around with it and i said F***** it, will just relocate it elsewhere on the block

So chased some threads on the driver side for the best location with this handy little tool. Loving it!


So found a good place for it, but sadly enough, my new adapter will hit a small piece of the motor, so i had to grind that little piece just enough to say that it can go round and round until i can get to my desired angle for my knock sensor and Voila: ...




on the next one, you can see the place where i grinded off a little to make the adapter fit


another angle to it


Good distance away from the exhaust


And you can see on the last pic another area where i chased the thread thinking that it would of been a great place, but no, way to close to the exhaust, this way is easier and faster to remove and put another one in there even if it is stuck, i can still have a lot of room to fool around and remove it without damaging the block.

So ran the motor again with my scanner on it and no more SES light on the dash.
Today was a Fracking good day. Glad this is out of the way now. time to resume work on bleeding the break lines and sending that bad boy to the shop for exhaust and wheel aligment.