Subframe extension to spring shackle using 2"x2" box tubing
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Topic author - I sleep in my van
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:23 pm
Re: Subframe extension to spring shackle using 2"x2" box tub
So I was looking under there today and I noticed a few things...
I can't use the piece I wanted though I'm still interested in using aluminum rather than steel. I can see clearly now the metal coming into where I was going to run the tube. I wonder if I could just notch it out though and weld the angle in, hmmmm...
But my biggest concern is the fact that you and I have different oem holes to work with. The angled racetrack-looking holes on your are non-existent on mine. So the idea is shared but I need to come up with my own attachment. My sub-frame is a 2001...
I can't use the piece I wanted though I'm still interested in using aluminum rather than steel. I can see clearly now the metal coming into where I was going to run the tube. I wonder if I could just notch it out though and weld the angle in, hmmmm...
But my biggest concern is the fact that you and I have different oem holes to work with. The angled racetrack-looking holes on your are non-existent on mine. So the idea is shared but I need to come up with my own attachment. My sub-frame is a 2001...
Pick two: fast, cheap, good
Want it fast and cheap, won't be good.
Want it cheap and good, won't be fast.
Want it good and fast, won't be cheap.
Want it fast and cheap, won't be good.
Want it cheap and good, won't be fast.
Want it good and fast, won't be cheap.
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Topic author - I sleep in my van
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:23 pm
Re: Subframe extension to spring shackle using 2"x2" box tub
Howdy,
The steel of the OEM subframe is easy to drill if you need a few new holes. I ended up drilling 2 holes in sub frame. I used a short drill bit and a right angle DeWalt 18 Volt drill to get in the tight place between subframe and rocker panel. For short drll bit i used Irwin multi bit. Just stop at 3/8" or 7/16" what ever bolt size you want to use.
My main reason is to have a bit more structural stiffness if i ever get T boned. Also, my frame extension provides a pseudo frame rail to mount rock slider rails or at least Nerf bar running boards.
AP
The steel of the OEM subframe is easy to drill if you need a few new holes. I ended up drilling 2 holes in sub frame. I used a short drill bit and a right angle DeWalt 18 Volt drill to get in the tight place between subframe and rocker panel. For short drll bit i used Irwin multi bit. Just stop at 3/8" or 7/16" what ever bolt size you want to use.
My main reason is to have a bit more structural stiffness if i ever get T boned. Also, my frame extension provides a pseudo frame rail to mount rock slider rails or at least Nerf bar running boards.
AP
Re: Subframe extension to spring shackle using 2"x2" box tub
I saw the runners you were installing, or thinking of. And I'm not going to throw the idea away. Have you seen a front end collision test with these??? The things seriously fold in half! Plus I'm a little coo-coo but I'm looking into fabricating a long travel kit someday and though I'm not going to be pro-running the van, I need the frame to be sturdy.
Pick two: fast, cheap, good
Want it fast and cheap, won't be good.
Want it cheap and good, won't be fast.
Want it good and fast, won't be cheap.
Want it fast and cheap, won't be good.
Want it cheap and good, won't be fast.
Want it good and fast, won't be cheap.
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Topic author - I sleep in my van
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:23 pm
Re: Subframe extension to spring shackle using 2"x2" box tub
Finished install of sub frame extension and bolted on 64" long Manik nerf bar which is 3" round tube flattened to be somewhat oval.
AP
AP
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Topic author - I sleep in my van
- Posts: 974
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:23 pm
Re: Subframe extension to spring shackle using 2"x2" box tub
Attached nerf bar to frame extension. It is very secure with Uni strut wing fitting.
AP
AP