Chevy & GMC Vans

Jinmajay wrote:

Mr_Roboto wrote:I think you jumped the gun on him Jimmy, Ask him about his G-van or do some looking. (He may run you :P)

I believe it was a near stock 350, EBL controlled single TBI motor in a huge van. You mean he doesn't have a Camero? Oh, well he stompted on my astro feelings...

Maybe I am a bit crazy?

He made about 350 at the flywheel with a TBI motor that used swirl port heads and an LT1 cam. He's probably had 4 or 5 motors in it over the years though including a few very warmed up 305/350s.

If my rig gets tuned properly and it stays together, I believe I can take him. He does have way more experience over me. I'm just a make believe builder.

I set the preload on the valves last night. I know there has been some discussion on this topic here before and I can say I have the proper procedure down. Researched this on the net, gm manual, Haynes manual and, How to build a Chevy small block book, cam manufacturer (Comp Cams) and Edelbrock. This is a brief summery of what I came up with:

• Assumed you have the heads mounted, lifters (hydraulic) installed and the proper length push rods. Mark all the intake lifters on the lifter valley. This will help you keep things straight when adjusting.
• Install your rockers. If roller, apply assembly lube to the roller tip and pushrod socket. If non-roller, apply lube to the pivot point too and liberal amounts to rocker tip.
• Set screw type rocker nuts- put a small amount of engine oil on the rocker stud and then screw the nut on but leave it loose (for all rockers)
• You should have the engine at TDC on #1 compression stroke. You will know this because #6 will slightly be opened on both the intake and exhaust (look at lifter top).
• Mark your crank damper in 1/8’s starting at TDC. My damper all ready had ¼ marks.
• Your first valve to adjust will be #8 exhaust (I think). The books say that you need to adjust the preload to .030 + or - .010. Let’s shoot for .030.
o To do this you need to get a dial caliper and set it on zero on the tip of the rocker. Rotate the rocker nut cw until the dial reads .070 (because it will be going backwards which =.030). Remember how much you turned the nut to achieve the .030. Go back to no load and try it a gain. Mine was a bit past ½ turn. I checked this on one other rocker/valve and it came out the same.
o Now remove the dial indicator and you can start your adjustments.
• Make first adjustment at TDC (just one valve), then rotate CW 1/8th turn. Make one adjustment and rotate 1/8 turn and so on until all are adjusted. This sets the lifter on the base circle and you should not be on the ramp of the cam ever by following this. If the lifter looks lifted, push it down with your finger, if it doesn’t move then you might not have started on #1 compression stroke. Go back and check.
• Remember to use a backer wrench when tightening the set screw and make sure it is tight.
• You will make two full rotations and come back to TDC on #1 compression and the adjustments will be complete.
• I know I’m leaving out the order of adjustment as I forgot to bring it with me today. I will try to up date later.
• You DO NOT NEED to pump up the lifters with a drill or old distributer before the adjustments! It is actually better if you don’t because it won’t hurt the cam as you rotate as the spring in the lifter will be allowed to compress causing less pressure on the cam.
• This will work on all Chevy SB’s which includes 4.3.
I will include in a new post for those searching...

I've never assembled an engine without pumping up the lifters. What you have described is way too much work for just a preliminary valve adjustment. Here's another way. Pump up each lifter using a squirt type oil can. Place the end of the nozzle in the oil hole and pump the oil in until it comes out the pushrod seat. Put each lifter in its bore. Install all of the pushrods and rocker arms. Install the rocker nuts loosely. Start with the first lifter and work your way down the line. Rotate the crank until each lifter is on the heal of the cam lobe. Place the push rod between your thumb and index finger. Rotate the pushrod while at the same time tightening the rocker nut. When you can no longer rotate the pushrod, back off the nut until you can. The final adjustment comes when the engine is running and at operating temperature.

I am trying to avoid the second adjustment. I know people say tht it can't be done until the engine is warm by I'm giving it a try. This is a roller cam and MFGR rep seems to think this that there is no reason to have to do the warmed up oil squirting everywhere procedure. Hey, I will report back after she starts to see If I have lifter chatter.

I have the oil pan tigg’d and painted. Took longer than I expected but it turned out ok. There is a makeshift windage tray welded into both wells and each seam (on the inside) got JD weld for a positive seal.

This is what I ended up with.


A 2-1" hoses will run back to the rear pan.


Prefit check.






I think I'm going to rebuild the transmission next.

Nice job Jim. =D> =D> Man-you could build and sell them it's sooo nice.

Sell them...

Not sure I want to and I'm not sure anyone would want to pay for even my labor/time. The only reason I did it was the stroker crank was hitting the bottom of the pan and I didn't want the oil to be sucked out and wrapped around the crank. I have heard people call this the rope effect? This happens at certain RPM's with a full pan or heavy breaking/starts. The oil gets trapped up in the crank and robs torque/hp. I just hope the two 1" ID's in enough to adequately return the oil to the sump. Plus I get more oil capacity...

Wow, lookin' good. You're giving me the urge to tear down ZZ & start over.... =D>

WTF peter.......

peter wrote:You're giving me the urge to tear down ZZ & start over.... =D>

Resist the urge. I'ts just the Darkside wanting to rob you from your time and money. Save yourself, as I am too far in to turn back!

Remember this has taken me 2 1/2 years this far... and I haven't even heard it run yet.

geez i have trouble not having my van for a couple days not being able to use it for years would probably kill me

Cobra wrote:geez i have trouble not having my van for a couple days not being able to use it for years would probably kill me

We have a backup van!

gas tank

I installed the pulley bracketry last night and found that the short valve (aftermarket) covers were a 1/8 inch to tall. I use the race style valve cover gaskets which are slightly taller. I cut a relief the back side of the ac compressor to just clear the valve cover.

Gas tank got the final coat of paint. I think I might leave the bottom tank cover off as it is scratched and I'm not sure I will be abel to make it look nice enough.