Chevy & GMC Vans

HPbyStan wrote:How in the world did you do all that cutting and welding without warping stuff all over the place? That is gonna be one fine truck !!!

It did warp some. I will have to buy the bondo in 5 gallon buckets. Do we have any resident body filler experts here? I will need some basic pointers.
Thanks for the comments. They are encouraging.

Need some advise. I have the old V8 distributor but want to upgrade. The set up is HEI with two connectors but there are so many to choose from. Someone told to get a rebuilt NAPA that fits a 92 305/350 camaro. Summit has so many listed, my head hurts. Summits search function is usually reliable and works quite well but it is listing some that have a vacuum advance. I want the best, most reliable setup for not a huge amount of money. I have heard the Summit brand passes oil after some use. Also, explain the whole HEI system to me (briefly). I believe the napa

Because I am changing the engine over to roller, will the cam gear be different? Remember I will be running 9.9:1 compression. Could I buy a hot coil and rebuild the dist. I have now with performance parts? Help me out here....

Napa's


http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... e)+-+Remfd

Anyone have the wiring info to swap a CPI top V8 TBI? THe one that LOckdoc posted on the old site is not there anylonger.

Well... I got a call from the machine shop yesterday as he finally got to working on my block. I got the 350 engine from an ASV member in Kentucky. I never heard the motor run so I asked the machinist to pressure test the block before anything else. He looked at me funny like it wasn't needed. I think that's why he had it so long... Anyways, he called me and said that I was right and the block had two cracks in the lifter valley and he only tested one side so far. I went there after work yesterday and we magafluxed both of them. they are about three inches long in the middle of the side of the valley. ](*,)

Ok, I'm glad he found it but now I need to re think things. He said he could drill the ends out and weld to repair the spots. We don't know what condition the other side is in either. This is a two bolt main, roller block (single main seal).

Should I go and buy a vortec, 4 bolt block and start new? Remember I'm "building" this motor with more than normal ponies. I have found some block locally for around $300.00 for just the block. What year 350 can I go up to and not run into problems with my 94 setup. I believe the gen I's went to 96? I was going to buy aluminum heads but should I get long block with vortec heads. I have all the accessories and brackets painted, got my motor mounts, oil pan so I really can't switch to an LT1 or OBD II donor vehicle.

Throw some ideas out there.

That sucks! Who sold you the broken block? I would not bother repairing it if you want more hp than stock. I would look for a 4 bolt roller cam block if you want to start hotrodding it. Vortec heads are a good start as long as you do not go too wild with the cam. If you want to run a high lift cam then the Vortec heads will need a bit of machine work to be able to run stronger and larger diameter valve springs. Good luck with your project!

I found a local guy that has a 96 vortec four bolt roller block for $200.00. That way I can keep with the Pro Com heads and the same set up planned. I'm going tonight to take a look at it. He said that the person who had it before spun the front main and #1&2 rod bearings. I will take it to the machine shop and have it pressure tested again. Anyone want to buy a previously enjoyed 350 block?

The guy's name was Cliff Hardaway and I don't know that he even knew that it was bad. He said he got it off Ebay and that he didn't have the contact information any more. I paid $500 for it and v8 conversion manual, AWD motor mounts, custom oil pan, TBI in pieces, and other old V8 junk parts. I will be able to sell the heads and crank to the machine shop for $75.00 so the manual, pan and mounts cost me $425.00 :-k Plus I met him half way (missouri to kentucky).

Not sure that is a good deal but what can you do?

At least I didn't build that block...

Hey you need another core? I'm in Chicago now but may be heading to Carbondale, IL for the holidays. I'll sell you a core motor for $100 for a short block it's got a broken piston skirt and as far as I know that's all that's wrong with it. Besides that it needs the holes for the lifter spider tapped and drilled, your machinist should be able to do it without any trouble. Intake to oil pan I'd go 150, the heads are L05 truck but hey what can you do. Also if you junk it be sure to check for a windage tray and save the roller cam hardware.

Hey, thanks for the offer. I bought 99 2 bolt roller block for $100.00 and my local JY. It had 53k on it. It looked brand spanken new. the Machine shop has bored it .030 over and is cleaning it today. I will pick it up tomorrow and in on it.

Good to hear that your block checked out. How are you progressing with your project? Are you going to build your engine your self? Make sure that you install your bottom end in one session so you are certain that every cylinder is assembled correctly...ie that your ring positions and end gaps are all the same. Also do not make the mistake of installing your pistons in backwards! It is a lot easier to correct BEFORE it is assembled and installed. Good luck with your project Jim!

The block is home now and it will get CNC'd, cleaned and painted very soon. I will also be ordering the low end kit (383 Scat #91250 kit) unless I can get everything in the kit cheaper separately. Same time I will get the Brass freeze plugs and cam. Hopefully I will get them for Christmas break. I will clearance check the rod, pan rail, cam and crank and make any clearance adjustments. Final low end build might happen over Christmas but I doubt it because there will be a bunch of people staying at the house. The heads/intake will defiantly happen later.

Yes, I will be taking my time and will be careful as to the order of things. This is my first real build (not including repairs and daily driver "stock" type work) so everything will be on hand and laid out on a clean surface. Generally I'm working with the engine still in the car/truck and momma is need'n to goes to the store to buy the babies formula. You know slapping stuff together in hopes that it will be better or at least drivable.

Ordered the crank, cam, lifters and stuff today. For some reason I feel a bit uncomfortable... No turning back now.... Its only money.

Jim,
You can be sure that you will get plenty of support from here.

Where did you buy the kit??.What rods came with it??.Flat top pistons I would guess.What are the spec's for the cam??.What are you looking at for a set of heads??.Now is the time to compound the stroker effect with a strong top end for building torque in RPM ranges that are normally used for a street driven van.I suggest you wt you choices.Ask questions and it's all here to help.

Here are some recent reviews on heads:

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... ode=VORTEC

These heads are of interest to me because of their ability to use the old style intakes and the newer ones as well.Still abit small for a 350 build like the one I am doing for Ole Yellar with only a 170cc intake runner.RHS doesn't offer porting service and have told me they could be opened up to 180cc max.I would think these would be a bad example for a 383.

For a 383 I think the target intake port runner should be 195cc.This allows for a torque curve to start still under 2500 RPM.

Here is a example of a aluminum head.Now I am not a big fan of aluminum heads because the do expand and contract at a much different rate than the cast iron block you are bolting it to.Surely the castings of them have gotten tons better over the yrs.

http://www.airflowresearch.com/195sbc_sh.php

Here you should note these heads have the ability to order of angle center bolts for the newer style intakes.Also you see they at AFR are saying you need to use their hydro rev kit to help prevent valve float that hydro roller systems are known for at around 6,000 RPM.Also the are rated for a 400ci engine with the start of the torque curve at 2,000 rpm.It has thicker decks too.Seems like just the ticket for a street driven 383.I am not sure a agree with the use of a Edelbrock proformer intake.

I recently did a search for a "paper build" 383 on another
board for a member there.We looked at AFR's,RHS's,Trickflow's, and a number of different companies.The AFR's won hands down with the target intake runner,price,intake flexablity,and the impressive knowledge of the hydro roller cams.The other companies offered 200cc intake runners with at torque curve starting at 3,000 rpm.In my opinion abit too high for a street van.

Well that is my two cents worth.

Gary

Edit:We also looked at Patriot heads with a dual pattern intake manifold,thick decks,etc.The real question is are they of the same quality as the AFR's.If it where my money making the choices,it would be with the AFR's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &viewitem=

Thanks Gary for the info/reply. Most of the technical information is on thefront page of this post. I have ordered everything through Summit and here is the misc. stuff:
Part Number Part Description
MEL-M55A OIL PUMP MELLING BOX
SUM-G6601-B BILLET TIMING SET SBC ROLLER
SLP-381-8007 PLUG PREMIUM EXPANSION
PRO-141-753 TIMING COVER
SUM-900130 CAM BEARING INSTALL TOOL
FPP-2919 REAR MAIN BEARING SET
FEL-TCS45121 TIMING COVER SET
FPP-1886 OIL PAN GASKET
SUM-G1057 SUMMIT DEGREE WHEEL 11IN
NAL-12371042 LIFTER KIT
DUR-CHP-8 CAM BEARING HIGH PERFORMANCE
PRO-66515 HARMONIC BLNCR INSTALL/PULLER
CCA-4790 DEGREE WHEEL 9"
SUM-G1063 CRANK SOCKET SBC

THe Scat crank is the 9000 series (wanted to save some money) cast steel. The rods are a full 6" I beam. I am leaning toward the ProComp 190 Aluminum heads as they will fit both intakes also.

Have you seen the Pro comp Heads? I believe I can get an assembled set for around $700.00
http://www.jegs.com/i/Procomp+Electroni ... S/10002/-1

I have heard nothing bad about new style (revised) and if you buy them through an established Dealer you won''t have to worry about the old style. For the price, can you beat them. It is almost bu one get one free. I know they are not well know yet but everone I have talked to who has them loves them so far.

What are your thoughts?

Oh, and the intake deal is getting revamped as I am now thinking about doing a dual TBI setup with a dual carb intake. See link for that discussion.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3325

Jim,
I don't remember(but you surely might have said)what rear end gear you going to run.That is in part,a consideration for you head/cam combo.What is your power range you want the engine to start coming in and up to what point.

I did look at the Pro Comp heads at the Syrcuse swap meet and spoke to a vendor for them.They are a off shore casting machined here.I said that it was another head company to him and asked if there have been any problems??.He looked at me(yeah a old f.rt like me baiting him-really is was. :-k)and told me that the proz problems in the castings they are working on and they did have "some" leaks.Well that's ok if he thought I already knew that,atleast he was honest about it.

Surely it made up my mind they are not the same thick deck quality of AFR's.I think you certainly get what you pay for in materials,castings,and workmanship in aftermarket cylinder heads.Some cases,I think the price difference is too small to consider the lower dollar heads.Also-I will buy a set for Ole Yellar(sooner or later) that is a compete set of heads because in the long run it is cheaper than buying componet parts to finsh them out.

I terms of a dual set-up,generally they are a higher rpm style power output intake.I know of a guy that owned a super gas drag race car that was a stroker with a cast crank.He raced it for a season even thro those cast cranks are not rated for those kind of high rpm's,tranny brakes and hooking it that hard.He did get thru the season with it while he saved for a steel forging.It does speck volumes to the cast cranks tuffness.But I wouldn't put my wallet on that bet.Truly they(cast cranks)are not for use above 5,500 to 6,000 rpm to be on the safe side and 6 grand is abit on the high side.So if your going for the look,that's cool.But keep in mind the limits of the crank you have.The 6" rods are surely a move to compound the stroker effect and get a three thumbs up from me here.If I am not mistaken,I think it is the first one on this site built and I do think they will put a bigger smile on your face.