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Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 1:35 pm
by Someone
I have it in my bathroom and love it.... If I ever build a garage from the ground up it is either getting radiant floor or geothermal!

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:03 pm
by SafariRob
Guys, the floor heat just made a big believer out of me today. I woke up this morning feeling really bad; my stomach was in turmoil and I knew it wouldn't be long before I was going to barf--looked like I finally got whatever it is that is making the rounds at work.
I get to the bathroom and sit on the floor in front of the porceline altar, awaiting the inevitable and hoping it'll be over quickly. I'm feeling really grim but I slowly become aware that I'm not having to deal with a cold floor adding misery by chilling my bod. It's toasty warm, in fact. While I can't say that the warm floor made for a pleasant puking experience, it certainly made the wait a little nicer.
So, SafariRob says install radiant heat to your bathroom floor, you won't regret it.

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:59 pm
by LaGrasta
I was trying to purchase a Joseph Eichler designed home a few years ago. All Eichler's utilized floor heating. Google his name and you'll find a few sites that have floor heating information that will be helpful.

here's one to get you started.

http://www.eichlernetwork.com/HDrad_heat.html

btw, won't notching the floor beams (shown in your pic) weaken it dangerously?

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 4:57 pm
by SafariRob
LaGrasta, I didn't notch the floor joists for the PEX tubing, I used a 1 inch hole saw and made one hole in each joist. I don't think those holes will be a problem (the joists are 2x10 yellow pine spanning 13 feet), but I sure gave it some thought before I got the drill out.

I did end up notching the wall studs, though. Originally, I had drilled a 1 inch hole just like the joists, but the PEX got away from me and got tangled while I was threading it through the holes. It would've worked the way it was, but getting wall board to lay flat over it would have been rough. So, since it was not a load bearing wall I notched the studs down to the holes--it made re-arranging the PEX really easy. I then beefed up the studs by adding a U shaped piece of 3/4" thick plywood around the notches. That fixed up the studs very nicely. Even so, I wouldn't have done the notches on a load bearing wall.

Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 5:26 pm
by SafariRob
I went back to page one of this thread and looked again at the photo of the notched wall studs...that is spooky looking for sure. So, I took a photo of how it looks now. I've got some plywood stored in front of the unfinished wall, so it makes for a restricted photo.

I'll be gluing in the wood that I removed to make the notches; I marked them before removal so I could easily get them back where they belonged.

Image


Forgot to mention it, La Grasta, but thanks for the Eichler link. I checked it out and certainly agree with them about carpet and radiant heat. Just the rubber-backed throw rugs in the bathroom really hold back the heat. It's amazing how warm the floor is underneath them.

Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:02 am
by LaGrasta
Glad the links helped.
I thougth the original wall image was a floor image viewed from underneith. Now with the supports you built, I'm sure you'll be fine.

Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 2:27 pm
by mdmead
LaGrasta wrote:Glad the links helped.
I thougth the original wall image was a floor image viewed from underneith. Now with the supports you built, I'm sure you'll be fine.
Oh, now I see what your issue was. I went back and looked at the pics yesterday and it didn't look like a big deal to me. (Certainly not with the reinforcements.) Funny.