Chevy & GMC Vans

blacknome wrote:OK first off, sorry but I have hi-jacked the post...... but the problem is fixed

And in closing I feel like a dummy because I could have fixed this in 5 mins by using a small strip of Butyl on either side to fill the gap left by the installers to begin with.

I just want to clarify for anyone wanting to do the same thing. This is NOT the proper fix. There is not supposed to be water there at all. That trim piece with the double sided tape was not designed to keep water out. I do agree it is a poor design but, the door seals will keep the water out unless they are bad. I went through this already myself many years ago. Put in new seals and the water stays on the outside completely.

That is probably the case Dean, but at the same time, have we ever been stopped from modifying the design of these vans to make it better. I'm not convinced this approach makes it better, but with a little thought, it might be the first step to making it better.

As for me, right now there are mechanical things that I need to put money into and the hundreds of dollars needed for new weather stripping needs to go there. That is why a fix like this interests me, even if it only allows me to put of this particular fix until I have other stuff done. It is either this or take the carpet out and listen to my wife complain about the increased noise, and the big piece of carpet in the garage or basement.

I have considered cutting off the back couple of feet of carpet and then taking it in to be hemmed so I can just take out the part behind the back seat when it gets wet until such time as I can afford new stripping. The fix here would probably be less expensive as a stop gap.

i ordered the weather stripping for my doors and it's sitting in my living room waiting for me to install. ( guess i should have took it to neco.....)

Rileysowner wrote:That is probably the case Dean, but at the same time, have we ever been stopped from modifying the design of these vans to make it better. I'm not convinced this approach makes it better, but with a little thought, it might be the first step to making it better.

It probably will stop the wet carpet until the sealant lifts. For sure it a very inexpensive fix but is not the proper fix. Will it work...sure.

My thing is by the time I get the stuff to Canada it would be getting close to 100 times the price. I don't have that sort of money around right now. Since my leak is very recent, I don't want the carpet to get any further damage if something like a several dollar tube of caulking can stop it until I can save up the money.

Ive replaced all of the rear door seals and water still pools up in the carpet. It is a lousy design, and we wonder why GM is going out of business? Peoples vans have leaked since new and they didnt ever make a change.

The only thing left for me to try is to make the top door close tigher at the top.

As for shipping to canada, I got my stuff from PA and is wasnt much to have it shipped up here, maybe 20-30 bucks.

Scott

When I worked at Chevy dealerships the main leak with the dutch doors, we saw this a lot, was the top seals around the upper door, the door that is mostly glass. Even when the seal looked good replacing it almost always fixed the leak, even when I would have sworn that it was at the bottom. On the last Astro Van I had that had this same type of leak and I really thought it was the bottom and replaced the bottom seals. It didn’t fix the leak and I was going to try caulking too, not a real fix but to find out if it would fix it temporary, but remembered the upper seal and put it in just because. This fixed the leak. I wouldn’t have tried it unless I had seen it so many times before as that seal is not cheap.

I have changed the upper seals too. Still frustrated with it, although today we had one hell of a rain come down and only a tiny amount of water was sitting at the back. I did notice a bit of water coming through the lip seal on the very top of the door opening, which touches the top of the door. I guess I did not get enough adheasive underneath it. I dont think thats the cause of the leaking though.

Do you know if there is any adjustment in the top door hinges to move the door closer for a tighter fit at the top? I suspect they are only in round holes with no slot.

Scott

Holes are round so I don't know if there is a way to adjust the door. Any body guys know how to do Adjust the door?

Rileysowner wrote:So when you re-install the trim this still works? Hummmm. I think I will have to take this apart and see what I can see.

Yessir, the trim fits back on and keeps the water out. I have not put the screws back in the trim in yet as I am lifting it up and checking the carpet every time it rains to make sure that no water has come in. I know this is less than an ideal solution for some, and I know that in the winter the water will freeze in that spot but you know it has done that for the almost 3 years I have owned the van anyways. If I find that I have a couple hundred dollars burning a hole in my pocket then I may "consider" new seals but I am very happy at this point to have the water no longer making my carpet wet and in all honesty I am doubtful I would buy new seals even if I had the money. There is a short list of things that "need" to be replaced on the van now and the seals are not one of those "need to be done " things. Silicone is working fine for me but if I were to do it again I would have bought a roll of Butyl from an autoglass place. I am all about the " make it work for as little labour and money as possible " as both my time and my money are very valuable to me.

Just my $0.02 Cdn of course !

I know this post is old and musty...but is it too old to dig up? I have the dreaded leak in our van...and since we camp in it nearly every weekend, this wasn't a good thing. Our current budget doesn't have room for new seals all the way around, so I expanded on blackgnome's concept after studying our leak issue for several hours. Since we lift items in and out of the rear of the van frequently, I was concerned that a "dam" of silicone would get bumped the wrong way and peel off....so I went to ACE, purchased a 10 foot section of aluminum corner channel or cornerbead, cut it to size, drilled it and screwed it down tight over a thick bead of permanent aluminum adhering roofing caulk and then caulked both seams with the same caulk (lifetime guarantee). The "dam" is now aluminum screwed tightly to the metal floor of the van completely filled with caulk and with caulk on both sides. It works like a charm. I'll get some photos up today if I can...I know this isn't the proper fix, and I still advise everyone with this issue to first replace door seals, but this could be a stop gap if your seals go bad. I also drilled two drainage holes for the water to drain off the bumper...

Photos would be good.

Promise pics on Sunday...headed out for the weekend.....

Ok...so took some photos of the work...after a weekend of snow...melt...snow...melt...we're staying 100% dry. As you look at the photos, you'll see that I used some L-shaped aluminum channel from ACE, some aluminum specific caulk from ACE and some metal screws. The aluminum channel was cut to fit tightly between the metal tabs or "walls" that the rubber edging going vertical along the sides of the van attaches to. Then, I layed down a thick bead of the aluminum caulk, then pressed the channel down onto the caulk teepee style...then I drilled holes in the aluminum channel and the metal floor of the van and screwed in metal screws quite tightly to hold that aluminum channel down securely. Then I aluminum caulked the daylights out of both sides or seams of the channel where it contacts the metal floor of the van. Also caulked the seam where the aluminum butts up against those "metal walls" on either side. Caulk job looks horrible, but works extrememly well. Water drains out of the two holes I drilled in the metal floor/bumper of the van just behind the joint where the metal "walls" and the aluminum channel butts up against each other. Also, remember, if you have wet carpet in the summer, and you have rear a/c, reach underneath the drivers' side rear corner of the van and squeeze the rubber drain weep and if it is clogged, water will stream out of there. Anyway, hope this helps to build on blackgnome's concept a little. Almost forgot to mention that since we are leaving off our plastic trim piece, it left holes in the floor of the van, so you can see in the photos that I used rivets and caulk to plug those holes. Trimmed the carpet, removed and discarded the pad, and purchased some new synthetic stuff at Lowes, and put that in on TOP of the carpet to sleep in...check the area for leaks every day. So far, so very good

i know this is a old thread. the link at the 1st post is dead. my wifes 01 safari leaks and does anyone know where i can get the weather stripping.