Chevy & GMC Vans

I do believe that if done in a hurry the tank could be dropped and ready to have the pump swapped in 15 minutes. Though with my disorganization of tools I doubt I'll ever hit it. Half hour, now that I can do.

- Can't keep everybody happy....
I guess I should have youtubed the V-8 swap's too....Darnit.

If you have a floor jack then dropping the tank shouldn't be a big deal. Don't forget every time you do a job you get faster at it. First time I changed plugs on my van it took 6 hours the last time a oil change plugs and leads took under 2 hours and 2 beers

of course if the bolt that has'nt spun since 1987 is a bit rusted into the threads, and it busts off inside the hole, it might take a couple minutes extra to get that seized bolt out of the threads?

Any suggestions or tips to speed that up so the hanger strap can be re-hanged?

doyoulikeithere wrote:of course if the bolt that has'nt spun since 1987 is a bit rusted into the threads, and it busts off inside the hole, it might take a couple minutes extra to get that seized bolt out of the threads?

Any suggestions or tips to speed that up so the hanger strap can be re-hanged?

Go back deeper into this thread & you'll find some interesting info on
rusty nuts,bolts.

Everyone said to remove the inside bolts closest to the driveshaft.I removed the ones on the outside which are longer and in my mind easier to soak with LPS III the day before.Even if it spun I could grab it with vise grips while I got the nuts off.On my 1994 the nuts just came right off.

The passenger side hanger bolts tend to get less salt spray and are usually easier to remove.

Update on ATF/Acetone mix
Recently made up a 50/50 mix & I guess this time I had the time
to look closely at it while mixing,Acetone does not seem
to mix well (if at all) with ATF.

Im finding the acetone stays seperate from ATF.
I turfed it into a spray bottle & I seem to get the same effect.
So have I been wasting my money on acetone? - I think so.

How I came to that conclusion is I again recently removed a steering wheel
from a tractor & attempted to use the 50/50 mix found the fault with acetone
& proceeded to use only ATF,Same results as before,Makes steering wheel removal much easier.

The properties alone in ATF IMO is what is working for me.
-Just thought I would pass this on.

Maybe you could dilute the ATF with a different solvent like gasoline or paint thinner to help it penetrate faster.

timelessbeing wrote:Maybe you could dilute the ATF with a different solvent like gasoline or paint thinner to help it penetrate faster.

Diesel fuel seems to work very well,But luckily working with old machinery I have
time flexibility to let the penetrants soak in.
Some old machinery components are no longer available so taking care & time
is key to success.

While using a test light ever prick you finger because it slipped??.Ouch huh!!.Simple solution.Take a wooden clothes pin and drill a hole in the jaws of the clothes pin a little larger than the pin probe of the test light.When you want to prick a wire,you put the clothes pin on the wire and use the holes in the jaws to prevent the test pin from slipping and getting your finger.Bonus is after your done with the test,you use the clothes pin to hold together the folded up wire of the test light for storage.

What is post is about is waterless hand cleaner.Maybe not well accepted,but I think that Fast Orange stuff is just the pits.I don't remember where I got it,but I bought a tub of stuff called Gung witch is a white paste like stuff witch works pretty well.When I do have water around,best hand cleaner is the stuff you use to wash clothes.Tide.And Tide with bleach is better yet.

Spray down the bolts for your front seats or caption seats and buy a 13mm deep well socket.Let it set for awhile,then loosen and tighten when you have time.For service work under the dash or the next time you have to remove the seats to haul something,you'll be glad you did this in advance.

While you install a tranny cooler you find many of them are supplied with what looks like plastic ties to thread threw the rad of a/c to mount the cooler.I think I found there are two things that happen when you use those ties.Heat transfer happens from the rad or a/c and a vibration of the tie can produce a rub leak in the rad or a/c.The solution is to build a bracket to mount the cooler with space off the rad or a/c.

1Gary wrote:Spray down the bolts for your front seats or caption seats and buy a 13mm deep well socket.Let it set for awhile,then loosen and tighten when you have time.

I seem to recall that being 18 mm.