New to me 2003 AWD Astro

[RINNY]

OK so I just purchased a 2003 with 110,000 on it . Solid vehicle. I want to lift it enough to run Hummer h3's with 31 or more preferably 33" tires. So far i think I want to put bronco rear springs and the nylon body spacers. Not sure what I need for shakles and if I want to put blocks under the springs. do I need to move the ball joints and should I consider spindles from a 1500. I am capable to an extent but not a fabricator. Any input would be greatle appreciated, Cant wait to get started. Picking it up this Saturday. Little overwhelemed about all the different information out there. Would like to keep it simple and solid. Thanks

[mdmead]

You are going to have a hard time getting 33s on it without a larger (welded in) subframe lift. 31s are doable, and I think 32s have been done, but with a lot of cutting. For me, cranking the torsion bars with the 2" spacers for 31s on a vehicle you are really going to wheel isn't the best solution either. Again, I'd be looking at welded in spacers in the 4" to 5" range... which is quite a bit more work and obviously requires fabrication, but will let you keep your torsion bars closer to a stock tension, improving the ride and travel. Now, if you stick with a 29-30 tire, you won't have to crank the bars as much with the 2" spacers, and I've seen some pretty impressive performance off-road with this set up. (A true 2-speed T-case is likely to do more for your off-road-ability than anything.)

Welcome! Can't wait to see your progress!

[RINNY]

Thanks for the input. By spacers you mean the body lift spacers correct? They make a poly 3" spacer (are they sufficient) and I think I am going to keep it to 31's. Is alot involved to go to a 2 speed transfere case or is it a bolt up?

[mdmead]

Thanks for the input. By spacers you mean the body lift spacers correct? They make a poly 3" spacer (are they sufficient) and I think I am going to keep it to 31's. Is alot involved to go to a 2 speed transfere case or is it a bolt up?

Yes, the body lift spacers. While 3" are available, my issue is with the bolts. With a 2" lift, the bolts are already 2" longer than stock. With 3", you'd be adding yet another inch. I just think that is a lot of length subject to side stresses on a critical mount. Composition of the spacer gives me pause as well the higher you go. I've run 3" body lifts on a couple of different 4x4s and don't have a problem with that as you are dealing with a separate body and frame and the attachment of the two isn't as critical. With our vans, you are basically talking about a frame on frame connection and I'm more cautious. I'm not aware of anyone running a 3" block, but I'm sure somebody has. Overland Vans experimented with it a LONG time ago but never brought the kit to market, but I'm not sure of the reason. With the welded in spacers, you can use the original short factory bolts and safety is greater. (Again, what you can get away with depends on how you are going to use the van. If you really are going to wheel it, then stronger is obviously better.)

Yes, a 2-speed swap is a bolt up. If you find the exact right case, I believe you can reuse your stock driveshafts. Otherwise you will need them modified. There will be some wiring issues and with a newer van, you might want to get a PCM reflash to reflect your exact set-up.

A near perfect set up is T.low's van on here. Reasonable lift, true 4wd, and I've personally wheeled with him and was impressed where that van was able to go.

[RINNY]

So I am starting to get it. 2" spacers, move the ball joints, new torsion bars and the s10 springs with the s10 hangers will give me 4" of lift and I proberly could run 31's with enough wheel well modification? I am using the van to traverse moderatly washed out gravel roads at a slow speed and some beach travel to get to my surf fishing spots. Just dont want to get stuick, not really 4 wheeling. You guys are great here and I am feeling better with every post. Perhaps the transfere case next year if it all goes well. Am I on the rite track now?

[mdmead]

So I am starting to get it. 2" spacers, move the ball joints, new torsion bars and the s10 springs with the s10 hangers will give me 4" of lift and I proberly could run 31's with enough wheel well modification? I am using the van to traverse moderatly washed out gravel roads at a slow speed and some beach travel to get to my surf fishing spots. Just dont want to get stuick, not really 4 wheeling. You guys are great here and I am feeling better with every post. Perhaps the transfere case next year if it all goes well. Am I on the rite track now?

Sounds like a solid plan. Not sure you'll need to move the ball joints unless you go with re-indexed keys for the torsion bars. (You shouldn't need new torsion bars unless yours are damaged.)

[RINNY]

So all the front gets lifted is the 2" from the spacers? The rear is going bto pick up another 1.5" from the s10 springs no? If the rear is higher how do you match the front without moving the ball joints? If I move the ball joints do I have to use reindexted Keys? The only thing that is new to me rite at the moment is the keys but it appears that is self explanitory once you get into it. As far as the tortion bars go I read if they are tired you loose some lift? Thanks

[mdmead]

I think Herbie noted it in the other thread, but yes, 2" from the pucks, and then you crank the torsion bars to gain the other 2". This can usually be done without re-indexing. But, by re-indexing, you aren't having to crank the tension on the bars, meaning you can set the ride and travel closer to stock. Moving the ball joints I believe is more about keeping the suspension from binding and being able to properly align it after significantly altering the angle of your A-arms with the lift.

Note: I typed the above and now just looked at the Overland site as I hadn't in several years and see they 4" lift kit has changed and the index keys are included. This is a significant improvement as they keys allow lift without cranking the tension on the torsion bars (as noted above.) Originally the kit was only 2" blocks and you could adjust the torsion bars to gain up to another 2".

[RINNY]

I have been looking around and I think I am going with the Journey 7" lift kit. I might substitute the 3" blocks for 2" and forget about the s10 springs. What do you think?

[RINNY]

This was my last 4x4 van

2006
Ford E350
Extended
6.0L
Quigley 4x4

http://s248.photobucket.com/user/BobCel_photos/library/?

[photo_van]

. I might substitute the 3" blocks for 2" and forget about the s10 springs. What do you think?

If by "blocks" you mean axle perch blocks, I ran 3" on mine for years. They work great if you indeed don't plan on much off roading. With the blocks you will get increased spring wrap and tire rub. I finally got tired of that and replaced them with S10 springs, lift shackles and a new mounting hole on the front hangers.

[photo_van]

I think Herbie noted it in the other thread, but yes, 2" from the pucks, and then you crank the torsion bars to gain the other 2". This can usually be done without re-indexing. But, by re-indexing, you aren't having to crank the tension on the bars, meaning you can set the ride and travel closer to stock. Moving the ball joints I believe is more about keeping the suspension from binding and being able to properly align it after significantly altering the angle of your A-arms with the lift.

Note: I typed the above and now just looked at the Overland site as I hadn't in several years and see they 4" lift kit has changed and the index keys are included. This is a significant improvement as they keys allow lift without cranking the tension on the torsion bars (as noted above.) Originally the kit was only 2" blocks and you could adjust the torsion bars to gain up to another 2".

Matt; With the reindexing keys you still are cranking the torsion bars, they just allow you to crank them that much more than the stock keys (I have the keys on mine).

[RINNY]

I need to get my jargon straight, LOL. I meant body lift pucks not axel blocks. So I might go with the Journey 7" kit with 2" body lift pucks rather than the 3" the kit normally comes with. H3 wheels with B F Goodrich AT KO2 as close to 31" as I can get. Probably a little under rather than a little over 31".
Am I on a good track before I get started or have I missed a lot of stuff?
I can't believe how much info and help is available, its really great!! I am just going to post here rather than in 2 places, seems rather redundant to run 2 threads on the exact same thing.

[Herbie]

I don't think I've heard of the Journey 7" kit you've referred to a couple of times. Check the lift section here and you can see what's involved in the Overland Vans 4" kit. You can get it from them if you want it all wrapped up, but some people have found it cheaper to go piecemeal.

[RINNY]

This is their site.

http://journeysoffroad.com/products.html

Picking the 2003 up Sat AM!! can't wait to get started on it.