LIFTED 2" vs 4"

[PatAus]

Seeking some solid advice here..

Im running a 2002 AWD, 140k mi. Standard vehicle at the moment. Going to install lift kit but will be keeping my current 215/75R15 tyres as they are still fine..

So 2" VS 3" or 4".... what are the general rules here ? Are my smaler tyres alright to run with 4" lift ? I will be ordering from Dan overland as I see.his product has a good review..

Anyone who has installed his 2" or 4" kit had any post problematic issues on hardware ?

Any help and advice appreciated..

[Herbie]

I've been very happy with my 4" lift. The front body lift is definitely the baseline, then you can add torsion bar lift if you need more. With your smaller tires, you might be able to only do 2" in the front and maybe a bit more in the rear.

I like using the re-arched or S-10 springs in the rear since it's a straight parts-swap and you don't need to get into too many other bits of hardware. Some people are happier with an add-a-leaf or changing the hangers, but for someone like you looking for a moderate amount of lift, the S-10 springs are a good choice for keeping the same spring rate, etc. The biggest question is what to do about the rear shocks, whether to get longer shocks or to do the weld-on tabs that raise the pick-up points. At this point, I think I'd advocate for longer shocks if you're anywhere close to needing them, since the weld-on stuff means you'll need help or access to a shop.

Others may weigh in.

[AstroWill]

Depends on what you desire. A 2" lift is the easiest requiring the least amount of parts/modifications. Buy some $4 pucks, some longer bolts, and a longer shackle for the rear leaf springs and you have all of the parts you need for 2".
If you decide to go higher, the shackles will stay the same and can be used to fine tune the rear height.


It's cheaper to piece together your own kit instead of buying one, but if you decide to buy a kit, Overland Vans is the standard.

Parts list here: https://sites.google.com/site/astrosafa ... safari-van

[Stroverlander]

2" lift is easy, can keep stock shocks and if you decide to go to 4" later it's not that much more work.

I guess one thing to note with lifting and keeping stock tires is that you won't be increasing ground clearance at all.

[PatAus]

Thanks to everyone here who contributed with good advice.

ill compile a short list and re-post just to double check and get further opinion

thanks again !

[Astrophysics]

Hi,

I have the 2" Overland lift on my 2003 AWD Astro.
In addition to the pucks and bolts, and rear shackles, provide in the kit, you probably want the front bumper re location brackets . These brackets allow the bumper to move up with the lift to avoid having the 2" gap to radiator grille.

AP

[Astrophysics]

Hi,
The 2" lift is great. Makes it easier to slide under van for oil change, and other maintenance. Also,
Makes changing spark plugs easier.

Kit also comes with emergency brake bracket.

When you cut your plastic fan shroud, you can use a jig saw.

Once the fan shroud had been removed, if you are handy with tools and simple design mods, you could make a 2 piece fan shroud. Just cut down the top center line. Then use 3" long steel mending plate to bolt the 2 pieces together at top.

The other OEM fasteners all still are used in their respective locations.

2 piece shroud is much easier to remove if you need to install new alternator for example.

AP

[Astrophysics]

Whoops wrong photo.

I will look for my lift kit photos
AP

[PatAus]

Awsome and thanks again !!

Im going with the 2" kit but trying to source parts independently. Ive found the pucks very easily through a link provided in this thread. But im not able to find the shackles as easy so i think ill get those from Overland Vans its about $100 for a pair.

I will be aiming to put the largest possible tires on as well. I will have to modify the wheel arches but i think i should be able to run 235/75R15 ?? once ive liftes a couple inches..

Thanks

[PatAus]

Just an update

from not knowing what to use to having installed the 2" kit

Was a very easy install. I used pucks in front, shackle in back and added a leaf because i want to hitch a dirt bike on a carrier and adding a leaf gives me 900lbs extra capacity..

So im just using the first hole in the shackle as it actually is close to standard hight, the add a leaf gives 2" so i have 4" option in the back now by just moving the spring pack to a different hole!

Now. from what information i have found, am i right in saying that 235/75/R15 is the max i can run with this 2" lift ? or is it possible to use 30x9.50 with 2" lift ?

Also while im here. what is the easiest way from 2" to 4" in the front. In hindsight i should have bought the 4" kit and all the bits an pieces but im taking the round about way as usual !

What exact type of shocks are the product for a 4" lift and where is a good place to order them ?

thanks in advance

[Herbie]

Just an update

from not knowing what to use to having installed the 2" kit

[...]
Also while im here. what is the easiest way from 2" to 4" in the front. In hindsight i should have bought the 4" kit and all the bits an pieces but im taking the round about way as usual !

Cool! We need to see pics!

The biggest difference between 2" and 4" is in the pre-load on the torsion bars. The 4-inch "kits" usually include re-indexed torsion bar keys that add a bunch more pre-load to drive the front end up. (But you lose droop in the process.)

When I bought my 4" kit, I got the keys, but they're still in a box. Instead, I just maxxed out the preload adjusting screws on the stock keys. This isn't quite 4" of lift in the front, but it was enough for my 29.6" tires, after a bunch of trimming.

Trimming: At the front wheel wells you'll need to trim the front bumper cover, and probably bend and relocate the support "stanchion"/bar thing that ties the front corner of the cover to the body. Behind the front wheels, you'll probably find that the tires rub on the pinch weld seam. Some combination of saw, grinder, and big-effing-hammer can be used to beat all of that stuff back to clear the tires. Some people also get rubbing from the wheel liner or at another spot in the wheel arch. Again, BFH for the steel parts, judicious trimming for the plastic bits. Basically just have a friend keep turning the wheels lock-to-lock and look for all the spots where things rub.

[PatAus]

Thanks..

Im still looking at parts and pieces. I could have got rolling across the border a week ago but have gotten as much enjoyment out of working on the van. Ill put together some pics very soon so you can see the extent of it ! Ill look into those torsion bars in the mean time and dust off the BFH in case i want to run 30" tires. actually what is tire code for the set you are running on your sled ?

[PatAus]

Also now that ive learned how to upload pics.. Here is a snap of my Short Wheel Base Mituabishi Pajero that i kitted out to get to remote surf breaks on the west coast of Tasmania. No place like home !

Photo taken at Trial Harbor

https://www.google.com/search?q=trial+h ... 80&bih=566

[Herbie]

actually what is tire code for the set you are running on your sled ?

I must have missed this last year. Sorry for the tardy reply. Currently, I'm running Yokohama Geolandar size 245/70-16 (29.7").

Whenever I next need tires, I'm thinking of experimenting with an AT tire in the 215/85-16 size. This would be closer to 30.25"-30.5" diameter, but a bit narrower, so I'm thinking it might give me the diameter without as many rubbing problems. Not many people have experimented with taller "pizza cutter" tires here, though. I think only one other person has tried a /85 tire.

[Astrophysics]

Happy New Year Herbie,

Here is a simulation of 8" lifted Astro with 35" tires.

Just kidding.

AP

Wild idea #2:
We need triangular shaped mini tracks like snow machines. These would fit in the limited space of Astro wheel wells and fenders. One corner of the triangle straight up, one side of the triangle flat on the ground. But speed would be limited to 15 or 20 mph I imagine.