Chevy & GMC Vans

Hi,

Making progress with skid plates.

1. Transfer case protected with addition of 4 mm aluminum plate that came from pic n pull.

2. Transmission protected with flat piece of 3/16" aluminum, 18" X 18".

3. Working on engine oil pan skid plate, for which I will use 4 mm alum from S10 Blazer.

4. Front diff skid plate

AP

Looking good! I’ve been meaning to do the same thing. I’ve got a ‘00 Zr2 Blazer. It came thru with carbon fiber skid plates. I bought a full set of aluminums from a Zr2 forum member. I’ve been needing to put both vehicles up it the air side by side to see just what will bolt right up and what’s gonna need mounts fabbed up. Good job looking forward to seein how you make out.

Hi,

My approach to skid plates:

1. Use aluminum not steel. For my use on mild off roading, The purpose of skid plate is to take the first impact that might have damaged the tranny pan or deep pan engine oil pan, or t case or front diff.

2. Use OEM holes in frame and sub frame as much as possible to set mounting brackets with grade 8 bolts. No welding so far.''

3. Install lateral cross bars. For tranny and engine area, I used 44" long steel square box tube 1/8" wall, 1 1/4" X 1 1/4". These connect to the Uni strut 4 hole Clevis brackets.

For the rear t case cross by used 1 1/2" steel square tube 59" long attached to rock rail Nerf side bar Uni strut wing fittings.'

To attach the aluminum skid plate I either used 3/8" bolts or in some cases self drilling self tapping #12 hex head fasteners, 1" long. They have neoprene washer too, to avoid scratching the aluminum. They have 5/16" (8 mm) hex head. Use electric impact wrench to set them after drilling 1/8" pilot hole.

AP

Self tapping fasteners
#12 X 1" length

Skid row news

In some industrial applications with steel decking, those self-tapping screws sometimes work loose, so keep a close eye on them. You do not want to find one in a tire!
And what's with the comment about rubber gaskets so the aluminum does not get scratched...on a skid pan??
Me thinks if possible scratches on a skid pan are a potential issue, the skid pan should never see it's way off pavement.
Maybe I am misreading the comment, and it was in jest. <GRIN>
Rod J

WE7X wrote:In some industrial applications with steel decking, those self-tapping screws sometimes work loose, so keep a close eye on them. You do not want to find one in a tire!
And what's with the comment about rubber gaskets so the aluminum does not get scratched...on a skid pan??
Me thinks if possible scratches on a skid pan are a potential issue, the skid pan should never see it's way off pavement.
Maybe I am misreading the comment, and it was in jest. <GRIN>
Rod J

Wonder how those self-tapping screws now. A buddy of mine used those screws on the cheapo skid plate for his Jeep and they definitely not lasts that long, he got a new set of poison spyder skidplates now which is doing good at off-road beating.

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for the info on self tapping screws! Yes, I may take your advice and replace them with 1/4" Riv nuts at that location.

I tested the skid plates on fire roads with high center covered with grass and weeds.

I got to try out the np231 low range t case last weekend. Works great. Creating along in 4 LO is great on steep hills. Locked tranny in 1 St to creep up or down steeps hills. Approximate speeds with little or no throttle applied.
4 LO speeds vs transmission gear:
1 St gear 3 mph
2 Nd gear 5 mph
3 Rd gear 9 mph
4 th gear 12 mph

The cable shift works great. Nice to manually get the transfer case range you want without waiting for electric shift computer to think and blink about it before operating encoder motor.

AP