AWD 2000 motor mounts

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adcolor
I am merely driving my van
I am merely driving my van
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Joined: Sun May 07, 2017 11:45 pm

AWD 2000 motor mounts

Post by adcolor »

Ok, I know there are several write ups on this, and I am not attempting to replace them, but add 'what I learned'. No discussion on older or RWD. Don't have one, can't comment.

2000 AWD

It's a GM, or American metric. They copy the European methods, with a few SAE fractionals in mind. So if you've owned Japanese vehicles, you will now be able to use those size wrenches and sockets you never needed and wondered 'why'. Plus 5/8” & 11/16”. Why the world (Europe and USA) can't copy the Nips I don't know – they have the thread/diameter/wrench size game simplified and functional. Moving on.

It is easier to work on top of large sheets of cardboard (mattress, bicycle, appliances, woodworking supply, etc, for free pieces; this advice brough to you by my Grandad, rip). Even though you cleaned it, crap will fall out. Plus, creepers only get you so far, cardboard is slicker to slide on than concrete, and softer and warmer too. White side up for light. And get a bright headlamp with fresh batteries. When done, just pull the cardboard and any remaining tools with it.

Left side highlights:

It sucks!

Ok, it still sucks a lot; moving on to 'lessons learned'. One, the gerneral underside front is the hardest area to work in on the van. If you are planning on doing significant front end work, replace the motor mounts. You are there, and likely will have more room to replace the mounts (maybe).

Jack the van up, place jack stands under the frame at the jack stand bumps (easier than elsewhere). Take the wheel off of the side you are working on.

Remove the front differential. Oh, sorry, that was not on the menu? Well, by now (if you have ever removed it) you will be saying 'gee, wished I had replaced the motor mounts and maybe the freeze plugs on the drivers side'. Yep, not really freeze plugs, but we all know what I am talking about.

On the passenger side, remove the starter motor. It's just easier. 13mm & 8mm IIRC for the electrical connections. Don't forget to disconnect the battery first. Seriously.

On the side you are working on, remove the pivot bolt (the long bolt that holds the motor mount 1/2s together). This is a left over that got 'oops we forgot' in the metric transition. You will need 5/8” & 11/16”. Wrench and socket, depending on which way they are installed; maybe even two socket wrenches. At least one should be a floppy, and 3”, 6”, 9” extensions (straight and floppy). Get a 1.75” extension (ie, http://www.protoindustrial.com/en/indus ... -3%7c4%22/). Short and long sockets, mostly 15mm. Note that I did not need a universal type socket. If you use one, do not get the cross yoke type (looks like a standard U joint). They tend to twist up and off as the joint 'climbs' when torque is applied.

Place a block between the oil pan and the jack (cast aluminum on later 4.3 V6). Jack it up (I found it easier to have the jack in front of the van – I have a long frame jack, so more room on my part).

Remove the engine side bracket. Then the frame side. Joy is had by all that attain inner nirvana. In addition to the above, you may need a 15mm combination wrench. A couple of the bolts can be reached over the frame rail from the wheel area.

Install in reverse order. If they do not align (they usually don't), remove the two transmission side bolts from the tranmission mount. Now you can swing the transmission to align the mounts (I used a come along, but also just yanking and kicking works too).

Flange head bolts on the frame side. Washer head on the engine side.

--A note on motor mounts. I had to go to three stores to get 2 that were pretty good. NAPA ½, Autozone 0/2, Advanced Auto (or Car Quest) ½. The problem was the upper bolt hole was too close to the body of the mount. The flange head bolt would not sit flat/flush in the hole. I did have to open up the hole/slots a bit to get alignment to work on the Advanced Auto unit (and I used a washer head bolt I had in my metric drawer – this mount was just ok, not as good as the one NAPA mount).

--One reason the pivot bolt (or the upper mount when 'hooked' over the lower mount) may not align is that the factory mounts (at least that's what other chatter here says) may have been set back ~1/4”; doesn't really matter why, the transmission bolts trick works.

Right side highlights:

If the diff is in the way, not the worst thing. But it sure would be sweet to magically go away....
Remove the front driveshaft (10mm socket, butterfly impact; factory bolts are loctite'd). It pops off the transfer case like any internal snap ring ½ shaft. Give the base a pop with a pry bar.

I pulled my engine cover (dog house) and took the lower mount, upper bolt off with a couple of long extensions (one wobble) and a socket. Access at the front, along the valve cover. You don't need to do this. With the 1.75” socket extension you can get it after the upper mount is off. I am replacing the plugs so I didn't care if I tried this, effort wise.

Lift the engine (you did pull the pivot pin?).

Use the socket, socket wrench, extension of you choice. 1.75” & 3” & 6” floppy ext, short & long socket, standard rachet, floppy head rachet. Gloves help – they let your skin slide on things it doesn't want to slide on. And contains the pretty red stuff. This wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

You will be hugging your diff more today than you hug your wife. Or, for the wrasslers out there, think head lock.

Likewise, with the upper mount out of the way, the lower wasn't so hard either. The pivot bolt was a pain (probably should have lubed it to slide in easier).

Reassembly was easier than the passenger side. But it looks sooo much harder 'In the beginning', as you can't really see much.

You may now resume light saber training....

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Re: AWD 2000 motor mounts

Post by Captn. Crunch »

Nice write up! I also love working on cardboard as I have no hair on my head to pad the back of my skull from those little driveway pebbles.
Captn. Crunch
"I don't beat my rig-I use it to it's maximum potential"
1994 Safari conversion (sold) and miss'n it!
1999 Safari SLE AWD junked
2003 GMC Safari AWD SLT
cast iron Torsen equipped front diff
S-10 leafs-G80 rear w/3.73’s
2” body lift w/Falken Wildpeak AT’s
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Re: AWD 2000 motor mounts

Post by Mmusicman »

EXCELLENT!!! I am very grateful for this write-up! I also have a 2000 AWD with over 220K miles and bad mounts. I bought NAPA mounts, but haven't been able to muster up the motivation to put them in! I crawled under and attempted to get a look at the job. I asked myself how can you work on something you can't even see. The driver side looked impossible.

This write-up will be a very informative inspiration for when I finally decide to do mine.
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2000 Chevy Astro LS AWD | 31" LT265/70R17 Tires | 8" LIFT | 10" TOTAL
92 Chevy Astro Shorty | V8-350
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