Chevy & GMC Vans

If I cut out the top slider guide will it cause any major problems down the road? The reason I'm asking this is the sub enclosure I want to build is going to have to take up that area. I'm not going to be using the sliding door too much if at all, but would like to use it if needed (sliding the enclosure into the van).
I've noticed there are two more sliders, one in the center and one at the bottom. They look like they're pretty heavy duty. Will both of them support the door properly?

thanks.

hmmm.. guess the 19 views and no reply either means do not cut it out or it will cause problems later.

I can't really say for sure , but gm putting it in in the first place might be a clue that it is a needed piece of equipment . but hey somebodys got to be the first one to try something , might as well be you . if you do try this let us know how it holds up . it might be a good way of cleaning up some of the interior for customizing . :-k :-k

That's what I was thinking. Well, sort of anyway. I was told by somebody to cut it out so the sub enclosure will not hit the slider. Trying to fit 6 18" subs in there, in a wall, is becoming a pain.

If I do it, I'll let people know.

my treck on top doesnt go in properly, it slides out and stuff... and goes back in and gets stuck.... i think it just keeps the top of the door from flexing and stuff

i don't know anything about that.... :^o

That looks real nice AA. I've decided not to cut the slider out. Within the next couple week there will be a 30cube enclosure with around 900sq.in port, installed. Supposed to slide right in there without any problems. Unfortunately it's setup for 2 Kicker Solo X 18s, so I'll need to change the baffle to accomondate 4 18" BTLs.

The enclosure has 5 layers of 3/4" on each wall. The back is framed out with 2x4s to form a pocket. Guess what the pocket is for? Yup.... Concrete.

But I just went so far off topic it's pitifull.. hehe

It just keeps the door from flexing out too far and makes sure when it shuts ,the latches are lined up and the door shuts squarely. Should not be too much of a problem, but if your bottom bracket ever broke while your were driving, you would lose the door.

With my experience fabricating my sliding door into a gullwing, you will HAVE to retain that top track if you ever want to slide that door open again.

Without it, the top of the door will fall outwards until it is stopped by the rear edge gouging into your bodywork..... Don`t remove that top track or roller!

Weld your slider shut for a smooth look (only if it`s a cargo though) or fabricate it into a gullwing like mine.

You can slide your speaker wall in from the rear if you decide to weld it up.