Chevy & GMC Vans

Eaton
Torque Control Products: 19599-010
10 bolt cover, 28 spline axle shaft, 3.23 or higher ratio
According to Eaton's website GM uses the Eaton unit on the G80 vehicles.

This unit can be use in the following vehicles:
Chevrolet Astro AWD 1990-2005
Chevrolet Blazer 4WD 1995-2005
Chevrolet Camaro 1990-2002
Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4WD 1988-1994
GMC Jimmy 4WD 1995-2001
GMC S15 Jimmy 4WD 1988-1994
GMC Safari AWD 1990-2005
HONDA Passport 2WD 1996-1999
ISUZU Amigo 2WD 1998-2000
ISUZU Hombre 2WD 1996-1999
ISUZU Rodeo 2WD 1991-2000
Oldsmobile Bravada 4WD 1991-1993
Oldsmobile Bravada 4WD 1996-2000
Pontiac Firebird 1990-2000

Powertrax
92-0776-2805 - No-Slip Traction System
1931-LR - Lock Right (Not recommended for highway use)

Strange Engineering
R542040 - Standard
R542046- Pro Series

More to come.....

After my original rear differential bit the dust I replaced the innards with an Eaton Posi. During the winter months is when I appreciate it the most since I have a 2WD Astro.

Don't waste your money on the Powertrax Lock Right!...unless you aren't going to drive that van on the highway.

I've had it in there for about a year and could never figure out why my Astro liked to wander so much on the highway. Well, to make a long story short...It was the lock right, which I pulled out three nights ago. After doing that, replacing both idlers, replacing the front right bearing AGAIN(2nd time in 1 month), and aligning it again, it now drives pretty well.

The lock right actually damaged that huge carrier bolt in the center of the differential; I had to use my dremel to clean it up in order to put the old open diff gears back in. But, that lock right sure was powerful.

Here's how the lock right works: It is always locked, until you start to turn - then it unlocks itself throughout the turn. It is actually called a ratcheting locker because it makes a ratcheting or click sound as you turn, then it locks back in when you resume going straight. In slippery conditions - unless you are in a turn, it is already locked!

Here's why it made the van wander (well, I think this is why) - Mainly, the problem stems from the fact that the rear end is always locked while travelling down the highway. This can affect a few things: First-If the rear left and rear right are traveling at even slightly different speeds, it is going to put extra stress on the locker and the frame of the truck. Second-If the rear is traveling at a different speed from the front, and the extra travel can't be distributed between a regular differential, then the transfer case (auto trak) will sense slip between front and rear axles and attempt to lock. Thirdly-As is on many vehicles, the rear wheels of the van are not in perfect alignment with the front wheels of the van. This means that the travel of the rear end, being constantly locked, is going to fight against the front since the 4 wheel alignment isn't perfect.

So...if you DO want a lock right after reading all of this, there are a couple nice things about it. First: it is a "kit", which is to say that it directly replaces the innards of the carrier, and does not require removal, shimming, or any adjusting of the carrier to make it work. You can do the job on your own in just a couple-few hours time. Second:If you want your rear end locked, this will definitely lock it. It's an automatic positive locking differential. It is locked until it needs to unlock, Third: I will sell mine to you. I can send pics if anyone is interested. Again, I don't recommend if you are using this on the highway.

Betz, that's good info, thanks.

No Problem. I had to learn the hard way unfortunately.

*Note - I often write my posts as though I am my dad, since this is his van and I have been helping with all this work on it and it is much easier to explain things as though I were him. However, I am but a wee 22 yr old and would now like to take the opportunity to step out of his character and into my own to make the following statement to ihatemybike:

Wow, you live in Elgin? I sold Dish Network there this summer...turned out to be not such a great job. Door to door is a tough life and not for me. Regardless, that is a nice area. I lived in schaumburg/streamwood/hoffman estates on the corner of Bode and Barrington. BTW, my dad is working in Joliet. Maybe you will see him on the freeway sometime.

Good thing I've got the POWERTRAX No Slip in my RWD as opposed to the LockRight then

Astrozam, could you explain how the no slip works?

betz wrote:Astrozam, could you explain how the no slip works?

LOL, actually you have explained it pretty well, other than the name its hard to tell there is any difference, however there are a few small key differences, check this article it will explain better than my memory will allow,lol http://rockcrawler.com/techreports/powe ... /index.htm especially pg 2

When you go around a corner with the No-slip there is no ratcheting sound.When my no-slip was new I often got a small bang when cornering from a stop,but no longer get this.If your not careful ( when you really get on the gas ) the van can have a tendency to want to push you into the left lane momentarily but after driving with it now for a couple yrs I barely notice this anymore.It does help considerably with my traction and does what it is supposed to do.Perhaps with your van being an AWD these unruly manners may be slightly increased,if so, I can understand why you might not like the locker perhaps the G80 would be a more suitable application.
Like you mentioned,easy of installation is a big plus for this system, its installed in a mere hours (or out for that matter ) as when I went from 3.42 to 4.11's

So like many things they're are trade offs,for me with an RWD and my style of driving the No-slip is almost perfect,for you with an AWD and the Lock-Right it wasn't so perfect,because of the differences in units and vehicles your experience was different than mine, its good to have the comparisons

Bump

You prodding me to get more info up there?

i'm looking at getting a Zexel Torsen T-2 i'm not even going to try to explain how it works heres what they say on their site for simple people

The Torsen differential is simply a torque multiplier that works through the use of friction generated by thrust forces from the internal gearing. It multiplies what torque is available from the wheel that is starting to spin-up or lose traction and sends that available torque, multiplied by the TBR, to the slower turning wheel with the better traction.

biggest down fall is if you multiply 0 torque you still get 0 so you would have to apply your brake if your wheels are off the ground to get the torque to the wheel on the groung. Since i don't intend to be rock crawling (maybe only a tiny bit) it doesn't bother me, if you intend to be crawling alot this one is not for you

ihatemybike wrote:You prodding me to get more info up there?

No, Betz asked my opinion and I'm just bumpin it up for him.

Thanks for the bump ZAm. I looked into it and the two are really similar. But, yours is definitely the better pic for everyday driving. Live and learn I guess.