Chevy & GMC Vans

Ok,I thought I had a topic on my engine build but that might of been before the switch... Anyway, here is my buildup:
Scat 383 bottom end ballanced kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
Comp Cam roller:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
Pro Com Alum. Heads
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Tru ... 06.c0.m245
Heavly modified TBI- I would go with the Holley TBI but people have dicurraged me (mainly Brian at TBI Chips) because of some off idle issues that are hard to clear up.
Holley Intake:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Has anyone put a stroker crank in the AWD setup? I am wondering if the modified oil pan will interfer with the longer stroke of the crank? Has anyone used a hotter crank in their buildup here? Has anyone done a 383?

THere is many other parts I'm gathering but this is the main stuff. THe block is at the machine shop getting the cam bearings knocked out, decked, honed, and pressure tested.

Let me know how you feel about the cam and heads being in a stroker with still using the computer and tbi set up. I know that this will be limited to about 375 hp but I want to keep the computer in this truck. I am going to use the 68 lb injectors if I can find a set.

Have a good one.
j

I had a Holley TBI on the L31 crate motor in my '88 maroon panel Astro. Mic Mueller (V8 Astro Captain) had no problem burning a sweet running chip for it. The Holley put out a bunch more seat of the pants HP than the OEM job. That being said, I think a BBC TBI with 350 injectors might be a good choice in a 350 engine.

Any AWD, 383ers?

Although I never swapped in a SBC, much less a stroked one, I do know one thing. With the body lift you're running (which looks identical to mine), I don't think you'll even need an awd pan. My BBC 505/502 Ramjet crate engine literally fit right in there, thanks to that 5" body lift. I didn't mod the pan at all, it's stock with the sump at the rear.

peter wrote:I don't think you'll even need an awd pan. My BBC 505/502 Ramjet crate engine literally fit right in there, thanks to that 5" body lift. I didn't mod the pan at all, it's stock with the sump at the rear.

You must of changed the motor mount location? My 4" tubes will lift the body off the frame and shouldn't have an effect on the pan and front drive components. The engine, front diff, axels and drive shaft stay the same location.

Help me to see how the lift helps with the subframe parts as I know I will gain a bunch of room up top. I know you were bit extreme with you build and process and you would be the one to know about it.

Hey, I hope so... I would love to fit one of those fancy dancy custom pans under it. Once I get the motor built, I will drop it in and take some pictures.

I do have the over angled torsion bar keys (from Overland) that will give some ground clearance. Seems like the front wheels will be tilting in to much and I will not be able to correct the alignment with the current upper control arms.

The BBC is longer so I am not competely sure,but that might have had something to do with the sump location. :-k


You could contact Jags that run who sells AWD oil pans to ask them if a 383 stroker would hit.

Off hand I wouldn't think you would have a issue.I mean your talking about a 3.480 stroke vs a 3.750.(350 vs 400)"Most" of the clearnace issues are involved with the pan rail depending on which rods you use.The thing I don't know is how much of the oil pan you need to cut for a AWD.

You're right, Jimmajay, I musta been having yet another senior moment.
My bbc bellhousing flange is in the stock front-to-back location, the bodylift helped me with clearance up top between the Ramjet intake and top of the engine cover.
However, the fact remains that I'm running a rear sump and the pan clears the diffy. And actually, having the bodylift allowed me to be able to raise the engine as much as I needed to. Again though, I dunno if it really is any higher than the stock position. And the sump's out back & easily clears the diff.

I could dig up some pics if you'd think it'd help. But it'd prolly be simpler and safer if you simply did a trial mock-up using a rear-positioned sump

I have a special custom pan that I have ready for fit. Let's see how that goes. Thanks for the pic's offer.

When I built strokers using the stock 400 cranks some times I would have to clear material both on the block and the pan. Did you have to relieve metal on the pan rails or block to clear the SCAT crank shaft? Pics would be cool! If you use a notched pan then you can keep the engine in the stock location and not raise the center of gravity. Mine sits with about 1/2 inch of clearance between the front serpentine pulley and the sway bar. So far so good! Good luck with your project!

Rockwerx
I've been waiting for you to reply

I will take pictures and put them on the site listed below and will include a few key ones here. I will have to grind a few spots on the block at the pan rail and am told that under normal builds (full size trucks) I will not have issues with the pan it's self. You are right in implying that the 400 crank and the Scat "400)" or 383 cranks have different contact clearance issues. The scats are designed to fit better than the old 400's.

I am ordering the cam special with a ground base which means the spot on the cam opposite the lobe will have a smaller base circle allowing for the longer stroke. This leaves the rod bolt/nuts grinding (which should be minimal as they are ARP brand) the bottom of the cylinder bore clearance in a few spots and the block pan rail. From what I have seen and read, this grinding is nonaggressive and easy to do.

The remaining question will be the modified oil pan I have. I guess I will have to wait and see.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_ ... ilPan.html

I would prefer to keep stock engine as I am not an experienced line drive mechanic. I think I could get into a bunch of trouble with the estimated torque and HP.

Is yours a stroker? or just a 5.7L? Can you send a picture of the pan and restricted areas for me?

One of my buddies made a thin spacer plate for his oil pan so he could run two gaskets to drop the pan enough so the the crank would clear. This might work for you for your van. My engine oil pan has only about 1/2 inch clearance with the front diff. It was very hard to install this engine without scratching the pan up. You may have to do a couple of test fits.

I just went to your picture site and took a look. You did a very nice job fabricating, preping and painting your subframe! What type of paint did you use?

Don't be afraid of too much torque and hp when you are building an AWD. Just make sure you build up your transmission...like use every trick that you have read about how to make them hold high torque. You need around 450 hp in an AWD to do the same as a 300 hp 2WD van (as in 1/4 mile times). The strokers make better lowend torque (and more over all torque) so the parasitic losses in the driveline are not as drastic when you have more cubes to play with. My favorite engine combos so far have been a 406, then a 396 and then a 355 (2WD vans). You just can not beat having more cubes when it comes to building better low end torque. These vans a heavy...you will love having that extra torque for towing or playing. The other thing that I found was that the larger engines got better fuel economy when in a towing situation.

The last Scat crank we used was for building a 489 BB. It made 617 hp @ 7500 rpm (with a worn out 780 Holley). It will rev like that all day long if you can keep the boat on the water. I would like to see your engine build up pics for your new stroker.

Good luck with your project!

I just went to your picture site. Holy smokes what a project. How in the world did you do all that cutting and welding without warping stuff all over the place? That is gonna be one fine truck !!!

Rockwerx wrote:One of my buddies made a thin spacer plate for his oil pan so he could run two gaskets to drop the pan enough so the the crank would clear. This might work for you for your van.

That is a great Idea! See, that is why I come here! I will be getting the block back soon from the machine shop. I will fit everything to see how things go. I plan on doing the old "playdough" trick on the pan to see how close it is to hitting.

Rockwerx wrote:You did a very nice job fabricating, preping and painting your subframe! What type of paint did you use?

I used Eastwoods rust encapsulator and then the original cassis black. It turned out good but took forever to get it there. I have somemore pictures I added to the site. Now that I am at this point, I really want to get the motor built and in. I planed on rebuilding the tranny myself but I have caught myself thinking of paying someone to do it. This will Cost more $$ delayng the start. At this rate I will never be able to finish the truck. Maybe I can get Congress to give me some money?