Chevy & GMC Vans

According to http://www.Car-Part.com it's possible to swap between the following years

1990-1996
1997-1998
1999-2002
2003-2005

Anyone know what changes between the year groups?

I found someone parting out a '95 AWD and hoping I can stuff it's diff into Grumpy.

If you are swapping in the complete unit I can not see you running into to many problems. check the part #s on the axle shafts, if they are the same it should be pretty straight forward. nothing changed internally in it ever and it only came with one set of gears.(according to http://www.precisiongear.com/gm714.htm)

You can NOT use a 95 front diff in a 97 and newer van. The diff's are actually machined differently. The only interchangeable parts are the carrier, ring and pinion. The axle shafts are different as are the CV half shafts. as far as differences between the 97 and newer, that I don't know.

I must add... You can use a 95 front diff as long as you swap the cv half shafts as well. Use this info with caution though as the hub bearings have different part numbers and may not accept the different year half shafts.

More research.
--------------------
AWD steering knuckles swap years.
1990-1991 (1988-1991 including 4x4 pickup steering knuckles)
1992-1994
1995-2002
2003-2005
Source: http://www.car-part.com
--------------------
Axle bearing and hub assemblies swap years.
1990-1994
1995-2002
2003-2005
Source: http://www.RockAuto.com
--------------------
CV swap years.
1990-1996
1997-2002
2003-2005
Source: http://www.RockAuto.com
--------------------
Front drive shaft swap years
1990-1991
1992-1998
1999-2005
Source: http://www.car-part.com
--------------------
Using this information, I see the following.
The steering knuckle/bearing assembly interface changed in 95.
The CV/diff interface changed in 97
The diff/drive shaft interface changed in 99.
Everything aside from the diff/drive shaft interface changed in 2003.
The drive shaft/trans case interface changed in 92.


So as long as there aren't any changes in how the diff mounts to the body and electrical sensors (if any), I should be able to grab the diff and CVs from a 95 and stuff them in Grumpy.

Anyone see any flaw in my logic?

Sounds reasonable to me.

Just make sure you take everything that you think you could need, plus everything that is attatched to that...


or you could wait a couple weeks and find a 97 being parted... I see these vans being parted or sold for next to nothing all the time.

also you may want to be a little skeptical of the condition, if the van is scrap... not many people do the maintinance on the front end to schedule. make sure the tires on the van match all the way around, inspect it carefully before purchasing, and dont pay much

I'm looking into this cause someone is parting out a 95 fairly close to me, hoping I can offer $50 for the diff and CVs. I'll be taking apart, cleaning, regreasing everything, and putting in new seals before it gets put in Grumpy.

Something else to consider is that 97+ front diff's have drain plugs so maintenance could be done. I highly doubt the front diff on the 95 you are looking at has ever had the oil changed. The only way to change is to either suck it out the fill hole or drop the diff and split it.

Really, no drain plugs. I hate that crap. Anyway, it's a shop parting it out they want $150 for the parts I need. I'll wait for now.

Besides, I still haven't got the stock stuff out. Two of the bolts holding the bearing assembly into the steering knuckle just won't budge.

Heat and a 6 point impact socket will be your friend to remove those bolts.

Dean........why couldn't you drill a hole in the bottom of the case to drain the old lube and then tap it NPT for a plug?

I've done WD-40, heating with a propane torch, and PB Blaster.

I don't own an impact wrench yet. Wonder if my 2.5 hp compressor is up for the job.

Smilie...

I suppose you could. I never did it but if the diff is out on the bench, that would be the time to split it and do the plug.

bike...Pick up the correct sized impact socket (15 or 18 mm I think) and get a 1/2" drive breaker bar. You can then get some serious leverage on the bolt. The hole through the hub is just big enough for a 6 point impact socket, although you may need to remove some rust. Or you could use this as the excuse to pick up a new impact wrench! Your compressor will work for at least short bursts.

Might take a trip to Harbor Freight this weekend.

ihatemybike wrote:I've done WD-40, heating with a propane torch, and PB Blaster.

I don't own an impact wrench yet. Wonder if my 2.5 hp compressor is up for the job.

Aaron,

My experience with air impact guns is that you will get more torque with a breaker bar unless you have an industrial air compressor (3-phase type). My air compressor is a 6.5 HP and I can't budge very difficult nuts & bolts (crank bolt on my wife's Acura) with my 1/2" air impact gun. I usually get better results with MAPP gas (not propane) and a breaker bar. Mapp gas empties much quicker then propane. Harbor Freight has some good breaker bars.