Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

ANYTHING TO DO WITH MAKING YOUR VAN MOVE EXCEPT FOR THE ENGINE ITSELF.

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ihatemybike
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Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by ihatemybike »

Alright, I'm annoyed. How the heck are you supposed to remove the half shaft?

I'm following the directions on http://www.autozone.com.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repair ... 528009c231

I don't understand step 15.
15. Remove halfshaft-to-axle tube bolts.
What the heck are the halfshaft-to-axle tube bolts?

I removed the wheel bearing assembly* thinking that would give me enough room to remove it, but it's still not enough. Should I remove the lower ball joint? What about the sway bar connection?

The inner CV just came apart on the passenger side making removal a breeze.


*The stuck bolts I've dealt with for the past several days.
Aaron

2005 Astro (Gandalf) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, 130k+ miles
1997 Astro (Grumpy - $250 Rally Van) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, LSD, 2" lift, 31" tires, 335k+ orig engine, $30 eBay fuel pump
Prev Astros:99,97,00,94,87,86

1996astro
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by 1996astro »

Those directions at least number 15 you mention is for pre-97 vans. They had a flange at the axle that the inner cv part of the "half shaft" bolted together. 97+ have a spline that goes right on into the axle housing.

Have you already disconnected the upper ball joint? Here are the directions I have, I used this on the passenger side and worked just fine when I put the disconnect tube on mine from s10.

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

Unlock the steering column so the steering linkage is free to move.
Raise the vehicle and support it with suitable safety stands.
Clean the underside of the vehicle in the area around the front drive system.
Prior to drive axle removal, cover the shock mounting bracket, lower control arm ball stud, and all other sharp edges with a shop towel to prevent damage to the CV joint boot.
Front tire and wheel.

Insert a drift or screwdriver through the brake caliper into a brake rotor vane to prevent the drive axle from turning.

Drive axle nut and washer.

Brake hose from bracket on upper control arm.
Wheel speed sensor wire bracket from upper control arm.

Shock absorber bottom mounting nut and bolt.
Compress the shock absorber.

Support the lower control arm.

Upper ball joint cotter pin and stud nut.

Upper ball joint from steering knuckle using J 36607.
Loosen and move the stud away from the knuckle.

Suspend the knuckle from the upper control arm to prevent straining the brake hose.

Drive axle from the steering knuckle by placing a block of wood or a brass drift on the end of the shaft and striking the wood or drift with a hammer.

Drive axle from the front differential carrier by placing a block of wood or brass drift on the tripot housing and striking the wood or drift with a hammer. CAUTION: Do not damage the drive axle boots when removing the drive axle .
Drive axle from vehicle. CAUTION: Do not allow the vehicle's weight to load the front wheels, or attempt to operate the vehicle, when the drive axle(s) or hub nut(s) are removed. To do so may cause the front wheel bearing inner races to separate, resulting in damage to front brake and suspension components and/or personal injury . Important: Wipe the wheel bearing seal area on the knuckle clean. Check seal for cuts or tears. Lubricate the seal lip. If seal is cut or torn, check the wheel bearing for damage and replace the seal.
Brandon
Bay City, MI

1997 Astro LT 4x4 48,000 Miles,
Custom Lift: 3" body spacers, torsion keys,
4" leaf spring relocation mounts (by ME),
added a leaf spring from a 94 S10 blazer.
All this gives me 5-6 inches of lift.
General Grabber AT2 31X10.50R15
Custom fit Brush guard
Western 7' 6" plow pictures coming soon...
Image
1997 Buick Century 198,000 miles

LiftedAWDAstro
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by LiftedAWDAstro »

1996astro wrote:Those directions at least number 15 you mention is for pre-97 vans. They had a flange at the axle that the inner cv part of the "half shaft" bolted together. 97+ have a spline that goes right on into the axle housing.
Yup, skip this step, doesn't apply to 1997 to 2005 vans.
1996astro wrote:Drive axle from the front differential carrier by placing a block of wood or brass drift on the tripot housing and striking the wood or drift with a hammer. CAUTION: Do not damage the drive axle boots when removing the drive axle .
This is the proper way to remove the half shafts according to GM. A good hard whack with a 3# mini-sledge against a drift against the steel part of the inner CV joint of the shaft will pop it right out.
Current rides:
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition

Mileage spreadsheet

Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy

Topic author
ihatemybike
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by ihatemybike »

So the directions are the same really, minus step fifteen.

The wheel end is pushed out, the diff side is pushed out, but there is not enough room between the diff and steering knuckle or enough flex in the CVs for me to remove the half shaft.

When we did the CVs on my wife's Jeep the lower A-arm swung down enough to get the CVs by. Only real difference I see is that on the Astro I still have the sway bar connected, so I'm gonna try disconnecting it. If that doesn't work, I'll try popping the lower ball joint.
Aaron

2005 Astro (Gandalf) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, 130k+ miles
1997 Astro (Grumpy - $250 Rally Van) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, LSD, 2" lift, 31" tires, 335k+ orig engine, $30 eBay fuel pump
Prev Astros:99,97,00,94,87,86

LiftedAWDAstro
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by LiftedAWDAstro »

There is plenty of room to remove the half shaft with only the upper ball joint and lower shock bolt removed. You just have to pull one end or the other out first. Then you'll have room to pull it out. Don't forget to turn the wheel one direction or the other and this will free up a bunch more room.
Current rides:
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition

Mileage spreadsheet

Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy

Topic author
ihatemybike
I plan to be buried in my van
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Location: Elgin, IL

Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by ihatemybike »

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:You just have to pull one end or the other out first. Then you'll have room to pull it out.
I think Grumpy was trying to show just how special it is, cause I tried and there wasn't. However I can now say that I win, after disconnecting the sway bar I was able to push the lower A-arm down far enough for the diff side of the half shaft to come out.
Aaron

2005 Astro (Gandalf) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, 130k+ miles
1997 Astro (Grumpy - $250 Rally Van) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, LSD, 2" lift, 31" tires, 335k+ orig engine, $30 eBay fuel pump
Prev Astros:99,97,00,94,87,86

Cobra
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by Cobra »

attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?
1998 GMC Safari AWD, BFGoodrich AllTerrain T/A
Jet performance tuner 91 octane preset, Jet under-drive pulleys
Rancho 999000 series shock, on-board controller to be installed later
DHC rock rails and skid plate Add-A-Leaf
G3500 front calipers
Zexel Torsen Diff
11" drums
180 amp Alternator
Long tru-cool 4590 trans cooler

1997 gone

Topic author
ihatemybike
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Location: Elgin, IL

Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by ihatemybike »

I use a big ol adjustable wrench. Only get 1/6th turn at a time, but it comes off.
Aaron

2005 Astro (Gandalf) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, 130k+ miles
1997 Astro (Grumpy - $250 Rally Van) - AWD, 4.3L, 3.42, LSD, 2" lift, 31" tires, 335k+ orig engine, $30 eBay fuel pump
Prev Astros:99,97,00,94,87,86
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potskie
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by potskie »

Cobra wrote:attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?

Princess Auto and some pocket change!
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by Cobra »

A friend of mine stopped by and picked one up for me after fighting with the halfshaft it eventually came out next time I'm going to remove the hub hopefully it will make life easier. Took me 5 hours to get one side out apparently I grossly overestemated my ability lol
1998 GMC Safari AWD, BFGoodrich AllTerrain T/A
Jet performance tuner 91 octane preset, Jet under-drive pulleys
Rancho 999000 series shock, on-board controller to be installed later
DHC rock rails and skid plate Add-A-Leaf
G3500 front calipers
Zexel Torsen Diff
11" drums
180 amp Alternator
Long tru-cool 4590 trans cooler

1997 gone

Lumpy
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by Lumpy »

potskie wrote:
Cobra wrote:attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?

Princess Auto and some pocket change!
Roger that. I always figure in the cost of whatever new tool I might need
when doing any job. Another few dollars for a big socket or wrench is pretty
simple to deal with when you're saving hundreds by doing it yourself.

I've got a Sears, Autozone and Checker all within walk/bike/horse distance.
Harbor Freight is 6 miles.


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Rileysowner
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by Rileysowner »

Cobra wrote:attempting to do ball joints this weekend and have discovered that they are 27mm crown? nuts but i don't own a 27mm wrench so how am i supposed to get the bloody upper ball joint off to get my half shaft out....?
When I did it I ran to Princess Auto and purchased one (actually a set of large sockets) which I have used several times since, so it was far from wasted money.
"I have a torque wrench and I am not afraid to use it."
Jim
1997 GMC Safari RWD, Power Windows and Locks, 7 passenger, a/c, rear heat

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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by Rileysowner »

Cobra wrote:A friend of mine stopped by and picked one up for me after fighting with the halfshaft it eventually came out next time I'm going to remove the hub hopefully it will make life easier. Took me 5 hours to get one side out apparently I grossly overestemated my ability lol
The other side will go faster, at least it did for me. The first one is getting to know what you need to do. Doing the other you have that knowledge to work from.
"I have a torque wrench and I am not afraid to use it."
Jim
1997 GMC Safari RWD, Power Windows and Locks, 7 passenger, a/c, rear heat

http://rileysowner.blogspot.com/

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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by Cobra »

it was a good learning experience i believe the other side will go smoother for sure. my tool box had the socket but that did me no good on the upper since cv was in the way. I found that the lower ball joint came out really easily just by treading the nut almost off then using a bottle/floor jack to lift the control arm by the ball joint, before the control arm came off the stand jack it popped out of the steering knuckle.
Lumpy you're absolutely right i don't regret buying any of the tools i own and i only have two i haven't used yet as soon as a get a garage that will change though.

horse you say.....? that sure would be a new one for me
1998 GMC Safari AWD, BFGoodrich AllTerrain T/A
Jet performance tuner 91 octane preset, Jet under-drive pulleys
Rancho 999000 series shock, on-board controller to be installed later
DHC rock rails and skid plate Add-A-Leaf
G3500 front calipers
Zexel Torsen Diff
11" drums
180 amp Alternator
Long tru-cool 4590 trans cooler

1997 gone

rlsllc
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Re: Darn you drivers side half shaft!!!

Post by rlsllc »

This could be the wrong way, but last time I installed a CV shaft, I released the torsion bar preload adjustment bolt and took out the lower A-arm bolts. I had already removed the bottom shock bolt, and the sway bar end link. It was almost easy at that point, IIRC. I can't remember messing with the ball joints, but I may have.

The reason was, I was able to pry the old one out but couldn't get the new one in. Maybe I was holding my mouth wrong or something.
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