Chevy & GMC Vans

Hi All, newbie here. I replaced my 1995 Astro AWD Torsion Bars last fall (when they both broke and my van was left unturnable). I got the new bars and porkchop keys from NAPA. They were the newer style (shorter) and had no problem putting them in but now the front end sits a lot lower than it did with my old original ones. I have the adjuster bolts all the way up but the front is still so low it bounces on the rubber suspension "bumpers" What could I have done wrong? Do I need a different type of "porkchop"? When I changed them, I just jacked the front end up and let the suspension hang, should I have unhooked the shocks or lower control arm? Thanks for any help you care to throw my way. BP

I'm almost positive that the lower control arms (lower ball joints) have to be let loose to index the bars correctly. I haven't done them, but I'll be changing the broken one in my van soon.

I'm sure a member with hands on will pipe up shortly.

Thanks for the info, if I need to take it apart, then that's what I'll do. I might wait for a few more opinion's, just in case there is a better way. Thanks again, BP

Although I haven't had the opportunity to swap out the old style bars, I would have to say as long as you used the new pork chops with the new bars, you will have to index them another notch. Also make sure they are right side to side.

Thanks for the tip, I think I will order the tool, as when I installed them all I had was a large bolt that I turned down in a lathe and floor jack to twist the pork chop. Thanks again, Billy

I was thinking the CV shaft, you have to drop the top ball joint. I get mixed up sometimes. Anyway, here are some good instructions from the "just answer.com" site:

Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.

Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.

Mark and unload the torsion bars:

Mark the adjustment bolt setting on the bolt adjusters.

Increase tension on the adjustment arm using the unloader tool J-36202, or equivalent.

Remove the adjusting bolt and retainer plate.

Move the tool aside.

For 1990-92 vehicles:

Slide the torsion bar forward and remove the adjustment arm.

Remove the nuts and bolts from the torsion bar support-to-crossmember. Slide the crossmember rearward.

Mark the location of the front and rear ends. Mark either left or right because the bars are different.

Remove the support crossmember, retainer, spacer and insulator from the crossmember.

For 1993-96 vehicles:

Remove the torsion bar anchor adaptor by sliding the adapter out toward the rear, then removing the adjustment arm.

Note the location of the tape or painted stripe at the rear ends of the torsion bar (since there are different bars for the right and left sides), then remove the torsion bar from the vehicle.

To install:

For 1993-96 vehicles:

Note the location of the tape or painted stripe at the rear ends of the torsion bar and position the bar to the vehicle. Remember that there are different bars for different sides of the vehicle and the tape or paint should be located to the rear.

Install the bar anchor adaptor, by positioning the adjustment arm, then sliding the adapter tube over the torsion bar and adjustment arm.

Make sure the adapter tube is properly seated into the front face of the crossmember. Make sure the torsion bar is properly seated into the rear of the adapter tube against the stop tabs.

For 1990-92 vehicles:

Install the insulator, spacer and retainer onto the support crossmember.

Install the crossmember onto the frame, rearward of the mounting holes.

Make sure the bars are on their respective sides. Slide the crossmember forward until the bars are supported.

Install the adjustment arms, crossmember bolts and nuts. Torque the center nut to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) and the edge nuts to 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm).

Properly tension and adjust (as necessary) the torsion bar:

Increase the tension on the torsion bar using the unloader tool.

Install the adjustment retainer plates and bolt.

Set the adjuster to the position marked during removal.

Release the tension on the bar until the load is taken up by the adjustment bolt, then remove the unloader tool.

Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.

Check and adjust the "Z'' height as outlined in the alignment information later in this section.

Copyright AZ Inc.



Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1eq ... IjyPhbRX&C

I changed mine out today. Just a note: Where it says "slide", as in "Slide the torsion bar forward and remove the adjustment arm." It may be an code for Sledge hammer, press, torch, prybar, etc, cause nothing on my salt belt ride is sliding. Nothing.

I had to use a 20 ton press and a torch to remove the broken end of the bar, after sledging the bar anchor adaptor out of the pork chop with my 10 pounder. This was with the crossmember out on the ground, which was a real fight in itself.

I didn't use an unloading tool, my medium 2-jaw puller worked perfectly with the wheels at full droop. I didn't pay attention and set the preload too high and now look like I'm a motor boat or that I'm pulling an invisible tounge heavy trailer.

Looking at the bar, methinks that rust was the culprit. The bar broke at the back in that sleeve, and it was loaded with dirt, rust, etc. I should look under my '99 to see if it has those sleeves on the ends of the bars. Maybe the sleeves cause it, since they are a catch-all.

Good luck on yours, mine is done and was a fun adventure.

rlsllc wrote:Looking at the bar, methinks that rust was the culprit. The bar broke at the back in that sleeve, and it was loaded with dirt, rust, etc. I should look under my '99 to see if it has those sleeves on the ends of the bars. Maybe the sleeves cause it, since they are a catch-all.

Your '99 should have the newer style bars. GM discontinued the old style with the sleeves on the ends in '96 I think. I went thru the same scenario as you did on my '94 ,crossmember out etc. I need to change them out on the '95 before they leave me stranded fully loaded camping somewhere!

Info update, spent the money and got the unloader tool. Should have done that in the first place, boy did it make it easier. I removed the bolts on the pork chops and ran a die over the threads and greased everything and put them back in. I could now turn them in farther and it raised the sagging front end and it solved my problem. Front end seems to steer a little different now, but I will get it realigned. Now for some new tires and new gas shocks...... Thanks to all for your suggestions, you guys are great :-)

OK read all of the post in this thread and I am still confused. I bought a 95 astro for $350.00 with a broken torsion bar on the drivers side. so what is best way to get the broken piece out of the indexing key. does it go forward or backward. Never done one of these before.

jeff hosford wrote:OK read all of the post in this thread and I am still confused. I bought a 95 astro for $350.00 with a broken torsion bar on the drivers side. so what is best way to get the broken piece out of the indexing key. does it go forward or backward. Never done one of these before.

I ended up having to remove the whole crossmember,took it to a garage and had them pressed out. Sounds like Roy did the same ,but finished them off with his torch & sledge!

rlsllc wrote:I changed mine out today. Just a note: Where it says "slide", as in "Slide the torsion bar forward and remove the adjustment arm." It may be an code for Sledge hammer, press, torch, prybar, etc, cause nothing on my salt belt ride is sliding. Nothing.

I think I'm glad I opted to order the parts from OLV and hand them off to a garage at a hourly rate on those. Cost me 2 hours/140bux for the install setup. Was it worth it?
Just as a side not both my sleeved bars broke way out in front of the sleeve area. and the first one broke practically outside the shop that fixed them. It sat a while waitinf for parts to arrive, and the 2nd bar broke while sitting there.

what did they install?

they removed the broken torsion bars and installed my new ones.

It took a while to get new bars from OLV so the van sat in his parking lot for a couple weeks. before he installed the parts. Advantages to having a herd of Astro.

BTW, I made a pretty good anchor for my trout boat outta one of the busted bars.

Worth it to me because I don't have a lift, torch, and things like that.