I went to use the TV in the old conversion van this weekend for the first time and found out something that is quite a PAIN!
The power to the TV is wired into the "ON" position for the key, no power when the car is off or in tha acceory (Key Back) position.
I want to rerun power so I can use the TV with the car in ACCESORY position. Where is the easiest way to tap into that, I am a novice, so I want to keep the removal of things to a min.
Accesory Power
-
afsigma21
Topic author - I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 165
- Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2008 6:55 am
- Location: Ohio
Accesory Power
____________________
1991 Astro CL 170k, then stolen and drove into a building, junked.
1995 Astro 110k sold for a truck, wish I hadnt.
Current, 1997 Safari, Explorer High Top Conversion, love my moneypit. "Humpty Dumpty"
1991 Astro CL 170k, then stolen and drove into a building, junked.
1995 Astro 110k sold for a truck, wish I hadnt.
Current, 1997 Safari, Explorer High Top Conversion, love my moneypit. "Humpty Dumpty"
-
Smiliesafari
- I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 12:34 pm
- Location: Orlando, FL
Re: Accesory Power
If you have an owners manual look at the diagram of the fuse panel. It should show you where the acc fuse is located. If not, you could wire it into the same fuse that operates the radio. 
1996 Safari SLX Hotair balloon transport vehicle
Re: Accesory Power
Not sure how often you plan to watch the tv with the van off but have you thought about using a 2nd batt to run your tv and any other 12vdc items on?
-
Spike99
- I finally get the smurf thing
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:58 pm
- Location: North of America
Re: Accesory Power
.
I'm from "old school" who still believes that factory wiring should only be tapped into if needed. For example: Electric Brake Controller "switch" wire. When possible, parallel wiring should be installed instead. Especially for "power hungry" electonics.
With this in mind, I would:
- Install thick 10 guage wire approx 12" long off the battery.
- Within 12" off the battery "+" post, install the approprite size breaker. For example, 20 Amp or 30 Amp breaker - depending on power draw needs of the appliance.
- Install thick 10 guage wire from breaker into vehicle's inner cabin. Through the firewall using a rubber grommet.
- Install a dash amounted 12V HD switch. Thus, allowing you to control the power on this 12V wire - regardless of vehicle key position.
- Wire thick 12 or thick 10 guage wire (depending on power draw needs) from manual HD switch to your electrical appliance. Could be butt connected appliance or a store bought ACC plug appliance.
I also like the idea of a 2nd 12V battery. Especially if you watch TV in your van more then a few times a year. Or, don't want to drain your vehicle's main battery too much.
Hope this helps as well...
.
I'm from "old school" who still believes that factory wiring should only be tapped into if needed. For example: Electric Brake Controller "switch" wire. When possible, parallel wiring should be installed instead. Especially for "power hungry" electonics.
With this in mind, I would:
- Install thick 10 guage wire approx 12" long off the battery.
- Within 12" off the battery "+" post, install the approprite size breaker. For example, 20 Amp or 30 Amp breaker - depending on power draw needs of the appliance.
- Install thick 10 guage wire from breaker into vehicle's inner cabin. Through the firewall using a rubber grommet.
- Install a dash amounted 12V HD switch. Thus, allowing you to control the power on this 12V wire - regardless of vehicle key position.
- Wire thick 12 or thick 10 guage wire (depending on power draw needs) from manual HD switch to your electrical appliance. Could be butt connected appliance or a store bought ACC plug appliance.
I also like the idea of a 2nd 12V battery. Especially if you watch TV in your van more then a few times a year. Or, don't want to drain your vehicle's main battery too much.
Hope this helps as well...
.