Hard-starting engine

[CaptSquid]

Well, the old girl has been giving me fits since this last winter. At first, it wouldn't start at all if it was wet and cold outside. I found that if I cranked the engine to death, she would eventually start and run semi-normally. After she warmed up, she would start perfectly.

Today, she acted completely out of sorts. I had a Dr's appt, so off I went, in the middle of a frog-choker. I had to crank her to death to get her started, but she seemed to run OK. That is, until I had to stop at a dip in the road. When the light turned green, I had to blip the throttle, but only made it half-way across before she stalled. When I cranked her, it smelled like she was flooding.

Turned out it was the Idle Air Control valve. When pulled, it was completely carbon encrusted. I was told that it could be cleaned, but this turned out to be so much bovine fertilizer. A new one has since been installed and the TBI was cleaned, somewhat inadequately, but she runs a whole lot better. This will also improve my fuel consumption.

[kings-x59]

only parts you can clean are the pintle on the end of the shaft and the port in the throttle body.
which reminds me...mines probably due for a bit of cleaning.

[CaptSquid]

Took her on a run this afternoon. Got her up to 50 (still in town) and then took my foot off the throttle. She backfired and died.

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Pull the EGR and clean the carbon chunks out.

[CaptSquid]

We'll do that tmw when I gotta pull the house off. I just hope that the battery stilll has juice.

UPDATE: Pulled the EGR -- still relatively clean, just normal soot. But I did try to clean it out. Battery had just under 12VDC this am, now sitting at 9.6VDC.

Waiting for the wrench to show up around 6 pm.

[CaptSquid]

UPDATE: Well, installed a new battery, 900 CCA. Now, I need a new coil. I gots no sparkage.

[CaptSquid]

UPDATE WITH GOOD NEWS!

The ignition coil was faulty! It would seem now that all I have to do is get the key CLOSE to the ignition and it starts!

[Rileysowner]

When I do my wires sometime this week or early next week, I am probably doing the coil as well. For the price and with the occasional hard starts I have had, I think a new coil would be worth the rather insignificant extra cost. Of course I have to do an oil change and check the front brakes as well since I have a squeal on braking that comes and goes, not to mention the phantom pulling to one side that only my wife experiences only when driving in the rain. Oh well.

I'm glad to hear you got your problem figured out Squid.

[CaptSquid]

You're gonna need either a bench grinder or a die grinder. The factory RIVETED the bracket to the coil and the replacment coils (don't buy at the stealership) don't come with the bracket. Factory coil goes for $75 US, aftermarket generic $20 US, and an Accel goes for about $50 US.

You'll also need a 10mm nut driver and 2 -- 7mm sockets. The nutdriver is to remove and install the assembly. The 7mm is to tighten the bolts that hold the brackets to the coil.

[Rileysowner]

Oh joy, another job requiring grinding out rivets. Is that done to get it unmounted, or is it done to remove the bracket after the old coil with the riveted bracket are removed?

[Rileysowner]

Just re-read your message Squid, and you said bench grinder so the whole thing must come out. Either that, or you use a bench grinder in a rather odd manner. The picture that comes to mind is rather humorous. Yes, I have a bench grinder, drill press and some other stuff as well, so getting the rivets out shouldn't be that big a deal. Easier than removing the rivets that held the upper ball-joints.

[CaptSquid]

Well, it beats what happened to me at a Sears store that I worked at. One of our known refunders (schmucks who never seem to purchase anything, but try to get refunds all the time) came to my counter wanting a refund for a brand-new bench grinder. When asked why he was returning the grinder, he said that "it was the wrong type."

Yes, Riley's Owner, the entire assembly must be removed. Of course, it's hiding in a forest of tubes and wires.

[astrozam]

The coil should just remove from the block with 2 nuts removed ( at least on my 95 it did ) then once ya get er back into your shop you can take your time removing the rivets.

[CaptSquid]

When this problem first came up, I went to the dealer to pick their collective brains. They couldn't come up with an answer. Today, I returned to the scene of the crime and told one of the service managers what the problem had been. I figure that, like here, if you find a solution to a problem, share it. Needless to say, they appreciated the feedback.

[CaptSquid]

Jim, didja get your coil swapped out? How does it run now?