Removal of broken bolt from thermostat housing
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Topic author - I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
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Removal of broken bolt from thermostat housing
Was removing the thermostat housing today,the 1st bolt came out without a glitch,not so for the 2nd,I snapped the head off and left about1/4" sticking out,I can get vise-grips straight on it, BUT as soon as I twist them they flex and the bolt doesn't budge,any tips on how to remove this,TIA zam
btw,this is an open hole ,there is about 1/16" of the broken bolt sticking out the back cussing.gif cussing.gif cussing.gif
up close...
btw,this is an open hole ,there is about 1/16" of the broken bolt sticking out the back cussing.gif cussing.gif cussing.gif
up close...
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- I sleep in my van
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Can you get a nut on it and do you have a welder?
CD_S
1991 W41
1995 Astro - Now gone, I am Astroless.
1997 C1500
1989 9C1 Caprice
1997 Bonneville
1998 Olds 88 LS
http://forums.b-body.org - newly updated!
1991 W41
1995 Astro - Now gone, I am Astroless.
1997 C1500
1989 9C1 Caprice
1997 Bonneville
1998 Olds 88 LS
http://forums.b-body.org - newly updated!
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- I am merely driving my van
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- Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:32 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
Had this same kind of problem with bolts many times while rebuilding a '74 super beetle many years ago. I suppose the differing metals in the block and the bolts expand and contract at different rates from heating & cooling, and over time some of those bolts just sieze in there like rock.
If you've got room for 2 nuts, just thread 2 on there and lock them together real hard, and use the bottom one to back it out. In your case, it won't work cause you don't have the room to get 2 nuts on there.
I have had decent luck with the larger sized bolt extractors... but they require drilling out the core of the bolt and opening the hole size to accomodate the extractor's diameter. The real problem with extractors is that the tips tend to snap off in the bolt, thus making it much harder to drill it out from there.
The other trick I know of is to use a fine grinder or file to notch the top of the bolt so a nice big flathead/vicegrip combo can go to work. This method can be hit-or-miss though, depends on how sound the broken-off area is. A variety of this trick would be to drill a hole thru the side of the bolt (right thru the threads) and pass a small but strong bar through the hole to act as a t-handle. Again, depends on how sound the remaining bolt is.
Last resort is always to drill out the bolt entirely, and if necessary, re-size and/or re-tap the hole.
Good luck.
If you've got room for 2 nuts, just thread 2 on there and lock them together real hard, and use the bottom one to back it out. In your case, it won't work cause you don't have the room to get 2 nuts on there.
I have had decent luck with the larger sized bolt extractors... but they require drilling out the core of the bolt and opening the hole size to accomodate the extractor's diameter. The real problem with extractors is that the tips tend to snap off in the bolt, thus making it much harder to drill it out from there.
The other trick I know of is to use a fine grinder or file to notch the top of the bolt so a nice big flathead/vicegrip combo can go to work. This method can be hit-or-miss though, depends on how sound the broken-off area is. A variety of this trick would be to drill a hole thru the side of the bolt (right thru the threads) and pass a small but strong bar through the hole to act as a t-handle. Again, depends on how sound the remaining bolt is.
Last resort is always to drill out the bolt entirely, and if necessary, re-size and/or re-tap the hole.
Good luck.
I've got this set of bolt extractors from Sears that works pretty well. I know you probably want an "in the toolbox" remedy, but these things work well. They are basically a socket that has spiral grooves on the inside that grip as you would "loosen" the bolt. The more you twist the more they grip. Looks like you have enough bolt to use one. If that doesn't work, looks like a drill and tap for ya ](*,)
Man, that thing really needed changed...look at that rubber o ring, that thing is shot!
Man, that thing really needed changed...look at that rubber o ring, that thing is shot!
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- I plan to be buried in my van
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- Location: Woodstock, Ontario
I have a set of what Blazer is talking about I think.. I know them as 'easy-outs' .. unfortunately I've had no luck on bolts with sheared heads. Only rounded heads. Not saying that they won't work.. but they haven't in my few cases. You can try mine first when you pick up your parts on monday. if they don't work seems a tap is the way to go. if there's room. :-k
I feel your pain Keith. ](*,)
I feel your pain Keith. ](*,)
Rob
current rides:
04 Mazda 6 V6 5spd
vans owned:
97 Astro AWD (selling by summer .. i think) SOLD
99 Astro LS Sept 08 ASV VOM
94 Astro LT
93 Astro LT
96 Astro LT AWD * parts van*
current rides:
04 Mazda 6 V6 5spd
vans owned:
97 Astro AWD (selling by summer .. i think) SOLD
99 Astro LS Sept 08 ASV VOM
94 Astro LT
93 Astro LT
96 Astro LT AWD * parts van*
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Topic author - I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
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Well, I appreciate all the suggestions guys, maybe I will borrow yours Rob when I drop by on mon and if they don't work then I'll drill and tap ( 5 yrs of machine shop will once again come in handy,LOL )
as this seems to be what you all agree would probably work.
Signed : Broken Bolted in Burlington,LOL
as this seems to be what you all agree would probably work.
Signed : Broken Bolted in Burlington,LOL
I don't know about the use of an easy-out, guys--that bolt is seized at the threads or it wouldn't have sheared off originally.
Anyway you can heat the bolt with a propane torch? I think I'd try that and then use vice grips. I know you haven't had any luck with vice grips so far, but maybe a little heat will do the trick.
Anyway you can heat the bolt with a propane torch? I think I'd try that and then use vice grips. I know you haven't had any luck with vice grips so far, but maybe a little heat will do the trick.
Rob Shaver
1989 Astro 305 with an MSD 6A ignition and a dash-mounted MSD timing control, a 4160 Holley 465 cfm four barrel carb, and an HEI distributor.
Moog 625 front springs and Energy Suspension poly bushings. Rear OEM sway bar. Edelbrock shocks.
1989 Astro 305 with an MSD 6A ignition and a dash-mounted MSD timing control, a 4160 Holley 465 cfm four barrel carb, and an HEI distributor.
Moog 625 front springs and Energy Suspension poly bushings. Rear OEM sway bar. Edelbrock shocks.
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- I plan to be buried in my van
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I posted this over as as.com as well. Check out this article.
"I have a torque wrench and I am not afraid to use it."
Jim
1997 GMC Safari RWD, Power Windows and Locks, 7 passenger, a/c, rear heat
http://rileysowner.blogspot.com/
Jim
1997 GMC Safari RWD, Power Windows and Locks, 7 passenger, a/c, rear heat
http://rileysowner.blogspot.com/
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- I plan to be buried in my van
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It is a good article. I have an alternator mounting bolt on my wifes mazda that has its head broken off, and that inspired me to look to see if I could find some ways to remove it. A little googling, and I found that article. So I will try some of it on my Sunrunner where a couple of the bolts for the rear seats broke off when I was removing them (all we use the back for is the dogs so we don't need the seats there) to get in some practice. Assuming that the alternator is not going bad (it may be as the drive belt on her car broke and it may be the alternator bearing starting to seize) then I can wait until the summer some time and see if then I can get that bolt out and replaced on her car.
I will keep watching this tread as I am sure I will break off more bolts, although the purchase of a propane torch has helped a lot to reduce that.
Oh, does anyone know where I can get left-handed drill bits in Canada? I have never seen them around.
I will keep watching this tread as I am sure I will break off more bolts, although the purchase of a propane torch has helped a lot to reduce that.
Oh, does anyone know where I can get left-handed drill bits in Canada? I have never seen them around.
"I have a torque wrench and I am not afraid to use it."
Jim
1997 GMC Safari RWD, Power Windows and Locks, 7 passenger, a/c, rear heat
http://rileysowner.blogspot.com/
Jim
1997 GMC Safari RWD, Power Windows and Locks, 7 passenger, a/c, rear heat
http://rileysowner.blogspot.com/
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Topic author - I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
- Posts: 2770
- Joined: Fri Sep 08, 2006 2:57 am
Try, home hardware they know what their talking about a little more than home depot or crappy tire,princess auto is another choice
I'm going to try Rob's easy out ,and if it doesn't work, there is a place in the Hammer not far from my kids called Teg's Tool and Machinery, I might try there for some left handed bits,I'll let you know if I go that route
I'm going to try Rob's easy out ,and if it doesn't work, there is a place in the Hammer not far from my kids called Teg's Tool and Machinery, I might try there for some left handed bits,I'll let you know if I go that route