Rear window swap
Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 5:55 pm
Ok we are back in business so here goes.
This is for the installation of pop open windows on an 89 Safari van. I am assuming that all the old style doors are the same up to the ones with the big back window. (No pop outs on those)
Step one: Open door and remove the inside plastic panel.
Step two: Tape the window front and back and cover every inch. I didn't do this and when the window blew out it made a huge mess.
Step Three: On the first window I tried to pry it out of the seal starting in the corner. (See step 2 it broke) The windows are glued into the seal about half an inch wide all around the back side. On the second window I cut the seal off the outside on the second window and then ran the knife around the inside the window attempting to cut the window from the seal. I am convinced that this will work but you need to run the knife several times to ensure a good cut.
Step four: Once the window is cut from the seal gently pry the window out starting in one corner and working up the side and across the bottom or top edge at the same time. Try to keep the window from flexing this will stop it from breaking. (I broke my second window as well)
Step Five: Once the glass is out (if you break the window just put on gloves and push it out into the garbage can that’s what the tape was for.) You need to remove the old seal which is also glued to the door frame. If you broke the window it will shower little bits of glass everywhere when you pull the seal wear a face mask safety glasses might not be good enough. Cut the scraps of seal left so that you are down to a smooth surface on the frame of the window. Its ok if you can still see black don't mess up the paint.
Step six: Get the new seal and slide it into place. I used some silicone to hold it and make sure it doesn't move. I taped the first seal into place to allow time for the silicone to dry. I didn't do this on the second window and it seems to be a better job than the first. (Live and learn)
Step seven: Slide the window into place and position it left to right in the hole so you are happy it is centered.
Step Eight: Have your assistant (wife, child or slave will do
) Push on the top of the window gently so that it has some pressure against the seal to stop leaks. Remember how ever hard they push it will be that hard forever so get it right and practice a few times before you drill. When you are happy with the tension on the window seal drill the top latches out one hole on each latch and put in a pop rivet to hold the window in place. (Your assistant can now let go) you can now drill the other holes for the top hinge/bracket and rivet them into place.
Step nine: This if for putting the bottom latch into place using sheet metal screws as I thought that this was easier than using the stock style bolt that goes in the latch.
Put the inside panel back on the door and do all the screw and snaps up as it will not be coming off again. Put the latch in the closed position and have your assistant push lightly on the window from the outside to once again put some pressure on the seal. Now remember as hard as they push that pressure if for ever and if they push to hard you will never get the latch to close and your window will need to be left open.
Once you have some moderate pressure on the seal drill one of the bottom holes in the latch. You should be able to go on an angle past the handle part of the latch with out marking the handle. Just drill through the plastic enough to get a good mark now your assistant can let go of the window and you can flip the latch up out of the way and drill the hole right through the metal. I used a 5/32 drill bit for all the holes including the rivets. I also used I believe a #10 sheet metal screw with a rounded or button head. Once you have one hole drilled put the latch in place and in the open position and throw in a screw and tighten it. Now open and close the window to ensure you have a good latch position. If you are happy then drill the other 2 holes and tighten in some screws. If you are unhappy you can try again using the bottom hole on the other side.
Step ten: Open a nice ice cold wobbly pop and stand back and admire what a handy guy you are.
Now if you used silicone on the window seal and didn't allow time for it to dry before drilling and installing the window you should close the window to hold the seal in place. Now clean up you tools and have a second beer.
All in all this was a way easier swap than I thought it would be. The first window took me about 3 hours to do but most of that time was cleaning it off the drive way and shop vac ing it out of the window. With the second window taped (have assistant do this while you remove the door panel) I just had to push it out of the hole when it broke. The second window probably only took me about 1 hour.
If I were to do this again I would probably forget about attempting to save the glass and just tape it right away and break it with a hammer tap to save time.
Enjoy and good luck
Kevin
This is for the installation of pop open windows on an 89 Safari van. I am assuming that all the old style doors are the same up to the ones with the big back window. (No pop outs on those)
Step one: Open door and remove the inside plastic panel.
Step two: Tape the window front and back and cover every inch. I didn't do this and when the window blew out it made a huge mess.
Step Three: On the first window I tried to pry it out of the seal starting in the corner. (See step 2 it broke) The windows are glued into the seal about half an inch wide all around the back side. On the second window I cut the seal off the outside on the second window and then ran the knife around the inside the window attempting to cut the window from the seal. I am convinced that this will work but you need to run the knife several times to ensure a good cut.
Step four: Once the window is cut from the seal gently pry the window out starting in one corner and working up the side and across the bottom or top edge at the same time. Try to keep the window from flexing this will stop it from breaking. (I broke my second window as well)
Step Five: Once the glass is out (if you break the window just put on gloves and push it out into the garbage can that’s what the tape was for.) You need to remove the old seal which is also glued to the door frame. If you broke the window it will shower little bits of glass everywhere when you pull the seal wear a face mask safety glasses might not be good enough. Cut the scraps of seal left so that you are down to a smooth surface on the frame of the window. Its ok if you can still see black don't mess up the paint.
Step six: Get the new seal and slide it into place. I used some silicone to hold it and make sure it doesn't move. I taped the first seal into place to allow time for the silicone to dry. I didn't do this on the second window and it seems to be a better job than the first. (Live and learn)
Step seven: Slide the window into place and position it left to right in the hole so you are happy it is centered.
Step Eight: Have your assistant (wife, child or slave will do
) Push on the top of the window gently so that it has some pressure against the seal to stop leaks. Remember how ever hard they push it will be that hard forever so get it right and practice a few times before you drill. When you are happy with the tension on the window seal drill the top latches out one hole on each latch and put in a pop rivet to hold the window in place. (Your assistant can now let go) you can now drill the other holes for the top hinge/bracket and rivet them into place.Step nine: This if for putting the bottom latch into place using sheet metal screws as I thought that this was easier than using the stock style bolt that goes in the latch.
Put the inside panel back on the door and do all the screw and snaps up as it will not be coming off again. Put the latch in the closed position and have your assistant push lightly on the window from the outside to once again put some pressure on the seal. Now remember as hard as they push that pressure if for ever and if they push to hard you will never get the latch to close and your window will need to be left open.
Once you have some moderate pressure on the seal drill one of the bottom holes in the latch. You should be able to go on an angle past the handle part of the latch with out marking the handle. Just drill through the plastic enough to get a good mark now your assistant can let go of the window and you can flip the latch up out of the way and drill the hole right through the metal. I used a 5/32 drill bit for all the holes including the rivets. I also used I believe a #10 sheet metal screw with a rounded or button head. Once you have one hole drilled put the latch in place and in the open position and throw in a screw and tighten it. Now open and close the window to ensure you have a good latch position. If you are happy then drill the other 2 holes and tighten in some screws. If you are unhappy you can try again using the bottom hole on the other side.
Step ten: Open a nice ice cold wobbly pop and stand back and admire what a handy guy you are.
Now if you used silicone on the window seal and didn't allow time for it to dry before drilling and installing the window you should close the window to hold the seal in place. Now clean up you tools and have a second beer.All in all this was a way easier swap than I thought it would be. The first window took me about 3 hours to do but most of that time was cleaning it off the drive way and shop vac ing it out of the window. With the second window taped (have assistant do this while you remove the door panel) I just had to push it out of the hole when it broke. The second window probably only took me about 1 hour.
If I were to do this again I would probably forget about attempting to save the glass and just tape it right away and break it with a hammer tap to save time.
Enjoy and good luck
Kevin
