Chevy & GMC Vans

I'd like to gain a couple of inches clearance in both front and rear.

Im pretty handy with metal so I think I can come up with the parts.

can anyone that has BTDT (Been There Done That) give me some pointers?


what material will I need to make the spacers that will utilize the original bolts? what will the final spacer look like, anyone have a pic?


for the rear can I just cut and add 2" to the shakles or would I need to add more like 3 or 4" to end up with 2" lift in the back?

thanks

Lotta good info in the AWD/4X4 Forum by folks who BTDT

except mines RWD.

if thats OK can you move my post or should I repost?

the bodys mount the same so that wouldnt really mater.

thanks

batmo wrote:I'd like to gain a couple of inches clearance in both front and rear.

I would recommend the Overland Vans 2" kit. It is complete and really not that expensive at only $160 plus shipping.

batmo wrote:Im pretty handy with metal so I think I can come up with the parts.

can anyone that has BTDT (Been There Done That) give me some pointers?


what material will I need to make the spacers that will utilize the original bolts? what will the final spacer look like, anyone have a pic?

You will need to look for Lockdoc's and Peter's build threads that discuss building a body lift using new steel towers. I think the tower is made using 4" OD x 3/16" or 1/4" wall material. Then you need flat plate to cover the tower. The flat plate needs to be drilled and ground to accept the body mount.

batmo wrote:for the rear can I just cut and add 2" to the shakles or would I need to add more like 3 or 4" to end up with 2" lift in the back?

thanks

You would need 4" longer shackles. Going with 4" longer shackles WILL screw up the pinion angle and you will need to measure and shim for the correction.

Do you have steel leafs? If so, I would recommend an add-a-leaf for the rear.

LiftedAWDAstro wrote: Going with 4" longer shackles WILL screw up the pinion angle and you will need to measure and shim for the correction.

Do you have steel leafs? If so, I would recommend an add-a-leaf for the rear.

where do the shims go? Ive got mono-leaf springs.

thanks for the info, I'll go check out those threads..

edit: been looking for those theads for over an hour and cant find them. it would be nice if the forum had an option to view topics started by members..

anyway, can you point me to the threads from Locdoc and pete? thnx

batmo wrote:

LiftedAWDAstro wrote: Going with 4" longer shackles WILL screw up the pinion angle and you will need to measure and shim for the correction.

Do you have steel leafs? If so, I would recommend an add-a-leaf for the rear.

where do the shims go? Ive got mono-leaf springs.

thanks for the info, I'll go check out those threads..

edit: been looking for those theads for over an hour and cant find them. it would be nice if the forum had an option to view topics started by members..

anyway, can you point me to the threads from Locdoc and pete? thnx

In the next couple of wks I am going to do a 3" tube lift to the sub frame for Ole Yellar and will be posting the steps in the Ole Yellar thread.I am in the process of building the spacers this wk.

Now I totally agree with Dean about buying a manufactured lift kit from Overlands.It is a fail safe/proven way about going about it.

In terms of Lockdoc's thread,it can be found in the archives.

Peter's thread is in the lifted sticky section on the forum.

Hope for now that helps you some.

Peter's build:

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1015&hilit=502

I couldn't find Locdoc either.

looking forward to your lift it post Gary. why 3" so far Ive read anything over 2" you have to extend linkages and wirring so at that point you might as well go 4 or 5", no?

thanks for the link mdmead. I was searching in the wrong section. petes van is the most impressive one Ive seen.

in the write up he mentions that capping the pipe sections for the lift and welding them the the frame. now I understand how it can be done with using the stock mounting bolts.. I couldnt figure that out.

seems to be a relatively easy task for an extra 2" lift.

Well at a NECO I crawled into Peter's van and decided right then I didn't want to try to get into a 5" lift van as a daily driver.It was just too high for me at my age.Still I didn't want to be disappointed with a 2" lift and the one inch difference that "may" make a difference in the serviceability of my V8.Dan at Overlands told me awhile ago that I could still get the steering shaft,but he wasn't going to build a 3" lift any longer.A difficult extension to build w/p hose extension is one part he mentioned.I also wanted to be sure larger tires and clearances of them where still going to be possible.

For the rear springs I am going off the design of the old style "Super Stock" Mopar springs which have a off-set secondary springs toward the front so when torque is applied it will lift the rear a little.Kind of a build in traction bar.

I hope Lockdoc doesn't mind...

Here are the pics I could find of the towers Bill built for his 94 4x4 V8 van.

Here is the steel I sent...4" OD pipe and 1/4" plate. Bill drilled the hole in the flat plate and I don't know the diameter. It fit the bushings.



He then laid the towers centered on the subframe holes.





Then he cut the subframe holes large enough for the bushings to go through. Then the towers are welded solid and painted.

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:I hope Lockdoc doesn't mind...

Here are the pics I could find of the towers Bill built for his 94 4x4 V8 van.

Here is the steel I sent...4" OD pipe and 1/4" plate. Bill drilled the hole in the flat plate and I don't know the diameter. It fit the bushings.



He then laid the towers centered on the subframe holes.





Then he cut the subframe holes large enough for the bushings to go through. Then the towers are welded solid and painted.

This should be stickied in the 4x4/awd section. Pictures are 100%

Lifted, thats worth 1000 words! thanks and thanks "Bill" also for taking the photos!

I can copy Bills method easy enough and its definately SOLID!

for a 2" body lift though it might not be worth the extra time/effort involved to do it this way instead of using 2" longer bolts w/spacers.

also if I use spacers now then it will be easier to upgrade to Bills method should I decide to lift more at a later date.

thats exactly what I needed to help decide which way to go.

thanks for posting and thanks for all the input from everyone here!

You are welcome! I knew I had seen the pics before but could not find the thread. I also agree that for the work involved, doing a 2" lift is much easier with the OLV kit.

is there a difference in handling or ride quality between the OLV kit and Lockdoc's version. OLV's is no doubt easier but the steel tube looks so tough and once painted looks like it's supposed to be there

Cobra wrote:is there a difference in handling or ride quality between the OLV kit and Lockdoc's version. OLV's is no doubt easier but the steel tube looks so tough and once painted looks like it's supposed to be there

In my mind that is in part of the consideration why I am going to do only a 3" lift and am going to use the welded pipe method.I think you get the lift and still maintain the stock ride quality/handling.Now this is for certain on a RWD van and I can not speak for the front end of a AWD van.Any change in the center of gravity because of how high the van is,I think I can correct that with a better sway bar(front and add one for the rear end) and shocks.That is something wanted to change anyways.I surely did not want to get as high as the ZZ is because I had such a hard time getting in and out of it.All I am after is a bigger/taller tire and easier maintenance of the planned V8.

I surely might totally wrong in this approach,but just my two cents worth.

I agree with Dean,for someone to totally remove their sub frame to weld in the pipe is way too much work compared to the Overland kit where your can do one side at a time by just loosing both sides.With me I had planned all along to have a second sub frame to build-up and install in my van.That makes welding pipe spacers a natural as I guess it was for Lockdoc.