Chevy & GMC Vans

I have a 94 safari with the 4.3w engine in it and for the past week it has started to misfire when trying to pick up speed. It got to the point where it would not start at all. I changed plugs wires cap rotor all A/C Delco and it started right up but had the same problem. It feels like there is a rev limiter in the darn thing. The fuel filter and pump are new so I do not think my issue is with fuel. No check engine lights are on at anytime.
fuel pressure is Key on fuel has 64psi. key off holds 58 psi for over 4 minutes. Now will only start most of the time with starting fluid. Every now and than will start right up without it but dies as soon as you touch the peddle. Help please!!

Ignition module possibly?

Coil

Throttle position sensor, oh wait, wouldn't that give you an SES?

How about check the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch. And voltage at the battery, should be around 14 when running.

I kind of agree on the coil. Makes sense.

I have read many of the post and the answer to the one I posted but the answers are not the issue. I may have worded the question in the wrong way but have now gotten somewhat closer to the problem. Can you give me some advise?
94 Safari 4.3 W engine. Started and ran but when you touched the gas peddle it quit. Did a complete tune up with no change. Now it will only start with starting fluid or gas from a spray bottle. Thinking it was the spider and/or pressure reg was going to change them out. Has a three month old fuel pump and filter on it. Found out I am getting no power to the spider. Used noid lights and volt meter to be sure. Cheched all fuses but can find nothing wrong with them. Replaced the ignition module and still nothing. While running the fuel pressure is 60+ psi. Key off it drops to 56psi and holds for more than 5 minutes. Do you have any clue where I should go from here?
Coil is working just fine.

Check the ECM "A" and "B" fuses. Then pull the doghouse off and check the wire harness that crosses over the right valve cover. Make sure it isn't burnt through and some of the wires are not corroded in half.

I'm not sure if this will help so if this information is wrong someone please speak up. I read on a repair web site that the oil pressure switch is controlling the power to the fuel pump. While cranking the motor over the oil pressure comes up and then activates the fuel pump to protect from a dry start. I'm not sure what years this applies to. So is it possible that the oil pressure switch is bad?

If you have narrowed it down to no power to the injector, good job. You should have switched (ignition) power to the injector from the ECM 1 fuse - simple as that. Turn on the ignition & the pink/black wire should have 12 volts. Comes directly from the fuse box. Possibilities: Blown ECM 1 fuse, corroded terminals in the fuse box, broken wire.......

well, it could be the oil pressure switch. Generally speaking low oil pressure is due to excessive wear inside your engine, unless the pressure sender, wiring or gauge is faulty, the only way to fix this problem is to replace or rebuild the engine.

Oil pressure is an important factor in the longevity of most internal combustion engines. Sufficient oil pressure ensures that the metal of the rotating shaft and the bearing shell can never touch, and wear is therefore confined to initial start-up and shutdown. Excessive oil pressure may indicate a blocked filter, blocked oil gallery or the wrong grade of oil which results to possible mechanical problems. So that is why we need to regulate the oil flow and pressure in our vehicle so that all engine parts get the right amount of oil. In order to monitor oil pressure, we need an oil pressure regulator.

When i had this problem with my engine, i ended up buying the AC Delco Oil Pressure Switch. It helps me a lot because the switch triggers the light to blink reminding me that oil pressure goes below the set level and need to fix it asap. It really saved me from irreversible damage.