Chevy & GMC Vans

I have just been reading the Ring and Pinion R & R thread by Rileysowner and have been inspired to give this a go. I have attached a screen shot of the kits I have found and wondered if anyone knew how much of a difference each one would make to the van?

If someone could also let me know what other parts (gaskets et cetera) I will need to order to complete this job properly it would be appreciated.

What are your goals in regards to the re-gear? Mostly highway or city? Flat or hilly? What gears do you currently have?

ihatemybike wrote:What are your goals in regards to the re-gear? Mostly highway or city? Flat or hilly? What gears do you currently have?

At the moment everything is standard, nothing has been changed.... yet

The van is used as a daily driver and is also driven long distances from the Uk as far down as the Spain/Morocco boarder.

I don't mind loosing a little top end if I can gain better acceleration/torque from a standing start.

I hope this provides you with enough info, if you need anymore just ask.

Thank for the quick reply

Looks like those are all 7.5" ring gears. Your van should have a 7.6". Not sure if they're compatible or not, but I would want the bigger one.

RPO codes in your case should be on the passenger side pillar.

http://old.astrosafari.com/axleinfo.htm

After having a pro replace the gears in my 9C1 I would advise you to stay away from Richmond gears. One word. Noisy.

Not sure you need different gears yet. There are cheaper things to do that will result in better acceleration/torque from a standing start.

I'd start by removing the restrictor plate from the throttle body blade and getting an Amsoil air filter.

What gears does the van have currently? The RPO codes should be listed on the edge of the passenger side door, looking for GU4, GU5, GU6 or GT4.

Remember, in most cases installing a lower gear will reduce mileage. Is that something you want with Europe's gas prices?

Stay away from any gear set that says race only.They are a harden metal that doesn't do well for prolonged use on the street.I a odd way I do agree with Aaron.Although we haven't yet found a ECM improvement program,I am very sure there are those available.

1Gary wrote:RPO codes in your case should be on the passenger side pillar.

Thanks for the heads up, I panicked when I first looked as it has been moved to the passenger door.

NotDadsW41 wrote:After having a pro replace the gears in my 9C1 I would advise you to stay away from Richmond gears. One word. Noisy.

Thanks for the tip, back to the drawing board for a little more reading and researching.

ihatemybike wrote:Not sure you need different gears yet. There are cheaper things to do that will result in better acceleration/torque from a standing start.

I'd start by removing the restrictor plate from the throttle body blade and getting an Amsoil air filter.

I currently have a K&N fitted and am very happy with the results, I have used them for years without any problems. I have a look into the throttle body blade now, does this work and can you buy the part off the shelf?

ihatemybike wrote:What gears does the van have currently? The RPO codes should be listed on the edge of the passenger side door, looking for GU4, GU5, GU6 or GT4.

It's a GU6.

ihatemybike wrote:Remember, in most cases installing a lower gear will reduce mileage. Is that something you want with Europe's gas prices?

It's something I have considered which is why I'm hoping to get some feedback from people who have done this previously so I can gauge if this modification is for me or not.

1Gary wrote:Stay away from any gear set that says race only.They are a harden metal that doesn't do well for prolonged use on the street.I a odd way I do agree with Aaron.Although we haven't yet found a ECM improvement program,I am very sure there are those available.

Thanks Gary.

You can cut the restrictor plate off the stock one or get a throttle blade from a Cadillac Northstar Engine as it bolts right up. The restrictor plate closes one side of the throttle body till about 1/4 throttle and always blocks part of the opening. Removing it means you'll be on the gas sooner.

GU6 means that your currently have 3.42 gears. Without going to bigger tires, I wouldn't put on lower than 3.73 gears. Spicer and Yukon are the names that have the best rep in the Jeep crowds, but stock GM stuff is available too. Standard brand gears are known to be noisy.

http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList.asp ... e&CatID=35

Removing the throttle plate is a waste of time. You can simulate the effect by pressing your gas pedal quicker. At wide open throttle there is NO restriction and manifold pressure is zero. My

I would do the gear change first to see if that would satisfy you and then go on from there.I am a strong believer in doing mods around the final gear ratio.It isn't cheap,but the biggest bang for your buck and sets the stage for a game plan for any other mods.

timelessbeing wrote:Removing the throttle plate is a waste of time. You can simulate the effect by pressing your gas pedal quicker. At wide open throttle there is NO restriction and manifold pressure is zero. My

My question here is how about part throttle or cruise??.I do know that for yrs TBIchips has provided this mod. :-k

The throttle still provides airflow anywhere from idle to 100%. All you have to do step on the pedal the right amount. All the diffuser does is smooth out the gradient.

timelessbeing wrote:Removing the throttle plate is a waste of time. You can simulate the effect by pressing your gas pedal quicker. At wide open throttle there is NO restriction and manifold pressure is zero. My

So these both flow the same amount of air?



I guess the NASCAR restrictor plate races are as fast as the non-restricted races too.