Chevy & GMC Vans

I was gonna get some Sea Foam and put some in my crankcase, fuel tank, and vacuum lines per instructions on the bottle. I was talking to someone about that, and they got upset and said that putting in in the oil and vacuum lines would tear up the engine. He went on to say that his friend put it in the crankcase and all the gaskets- ALL of them- failed. The person had to haul the old engine off as scrap.

Does anyone have any experience with this stuff?

You don't put Sea Foam in the Crank. I bet your buddy was thinking about marvel mystery oil.

During WWII they would sometimes put some alcohol into the crank of their diesels to thin out the oil and get a few extra turns on the screws in an "emergency" even though it was bad for their bearings.

Modern engines shouldn't really need additives. The Oil companies spent millions on research competing in the market for customer loyalty. That's what the SAE ratings are all about.

A couple cans of sea foam along with a complete fill up shouldn't hurt anything. JUST DONT PUT IT IN THE CRANK/VACUME LINES.

If your engine is really dirty go to a GM dealerships parts department and tell em you want a can of TOP Engine cleaner. (Be sure to follow directions)

I used it to clean the cylinders/valves on a 1970 FORD galaxy 500 with the 351 Windsor and it works.
Filled 3 blocks with carbon smoke............................

seafoam works great when you dump it down the carb. makes all sorts of nasty smelly black crap come out your tailpipe. that being said, do it in an empty area (parking lot, backyard away from house, etc)
I do not recommend putting it in your crankcase or your vacuum lines.

Do I just pour it into a full tank of gas, or is there any specific technique? I've gathered that it makes quite the smoke show. Is that harmful to my catalytic converter? Sorry if I sound like a complete idiot, I've just never used the stuff before.

I am NOT a supporter of a repair in a can.Some sludge is good with engines that have miles on them.Reason being is that sludge is taking up gaps on worn parts or gaskets that have shrunk being heated and cooled over time.So well intended in use,may create a issue that wasn't one before.

Nothing replaces a repair/rebuild that is needed to be done.

1Gary wrote:I am NOT a supporter of a repair in a can.Some sludge is good with engines that have miles on them.Reason being is that sludge is taking up gaps on worn parts or gaskets that have shrunk being heated and cooled over time.So well intended in use,may create a issue that wasn't one before.

Nothing replaces a repair/rebuild that is needed to be done.

it is difficult for me to acknowledge that it might have some utility as I lose about $3000 some weeks to guys who call in and say; "I watched a video on youtube and used Seafoam and the ticking is gone now!" GM does however sell some sort of HC based cleaner that makes a similar smoke screen, I don't want to get caught trying it but I am very curious.

I use Seafoam regularly in all of my gasoline powered equipment (including vehicles)
It is a fuel stabilizer that works with ethanol fuels. It also takes the place if fuel antifreeze/dryer. It also cleans the fuel system (injector cleaner)

I buy it by the gallon at Tractor Supply and once a month dump a pint in with a full tank of gas in my vehicles.
When I buy fuel for my power equipment (mowers, chainsaw, trimmer, leaf blower,snow blower, generator, etc.) I mix the appropriate amount into the fuel can so it is pre-treated (stabilized)
I also use it in my snowmobiles both two and four stroke as they sometimes sit for a month or more between uses and I have yet to have a fuel related problem with either of them. I use it in my motorcycles both street and dirt.

My leaf blower (2cycle) would not idle and was running badly after sitting for a few months after I had forgotten to treat the fuel. I added Sea Foam and within 1/4-1/3 tank it was running better and by the time that tank was run out it was back to 100%.

The stuff works for it's intended use... don't expect anything to fix a mechanically unsound engine or clear injectors that have been neglected for 100,000+ miles.

I am a (former) ASE Certified Master Tech as well as a (former) ALFA Romeo Certified Master Tech... there are very few products along these lines on the market that I use... Seafoam is one that I recommend to friends because it does most everything in one product.

I can't speak from personal experience but the can says it works on diesels too and I have no reason to think it wouldn't.

There are a number of members here that a ASE techs.Sta-bile brand name for long term storage of gas.Especially two cycle which you don't use alot of.We tell pro users in outdoor equip,but they normally are turning gas over fast enough that they don't need it.Factory bulletins state shelve life of today's gas is two to three weeks before it starts to turn into varnish.Has to be fresh gas because it doesn't bring back bad gas.Bad gas attacks the rubber components in two cycle carbs and once there is a hole in that,it needs to be rebuilt.A word to the wise.Those two cycle carbs are very sensitive for the carb adjustments.Lean one out and burn up the engine due to the lack of the two cycle oil to lube it.Also,the parts must go back in exactly in the order they came out.

This question about a fix in a can has been posted numerous times pro and con.In my two cents worth..........................it's silly to say to buy a oil additive that specializes in only the top haft of a engine.LOL-must have some super powers eh. #-o

most of the products are naptha gas with added primary alcohols which are strongly hydrophilic and bind with water to form hydrates that are combustable. the naptha is simply a good solvent for the oxidative products of hydrocarbons. so, parts cleaner and a water absorbing alcohol.

Sta-Bil (Red) does not work well with ethanol "enhanced" fuels. Marine formula Sta-Bil (green) supposedly works better. Me I have a good track record with Sea Foam so I'll stick with it.

When I'm slow in Spring and Summer I help a friend out at his motorcycle shop. He does all bikes from Harleys and metric cruisers to crotchers, dirt bikes and ATVs. I usually do his carb work. Since the increased use of ethanol the last few years we have seen carb service intervals increase across the board to the point he tells customers if the bikes sit for more than a week without either draining the carbs or adding stabilizer they may need another service. he even started telling customers that if they are not picking their bikes up and riding them within a week there is no warranty on the carb service. I am beginning to see a lot of carbs that have what looks like Vaseline or uncured Silicone in the float bowls.... nasty stuff they are selling us and telling us it's gasoline!

Number one repair sales on s/blowers is carb rebuilds.The newer EPA carbs are plastic and for the most part are a R & R because they can't be rebuilt.Average costs is from 150 to 250 bucks.

But for Jake's van............nawwww.Don't do it and caulk that up to if it ant broke,don't try to fix it.