Chevy & GMC Vans

'97 AWD. Wondering if anyone has any tips on fixing positive camber on my 4" OLV lift. I had the alinement shop remove the knockouts. The guy at the shop said he got it as close as he could and that if I wanted to get it perfect I would need to get out the die grinder. Has anyone else had to do this? Would this work? I guess he means I need to extend the range the upper control arm can be adjusted toward the center of the vehicle. Thanks for reading guys.

There are upper ball joint relocation brackets available from OLV that move the ball joint to the bottom of the control arm to fix this.

Top of the page.

I don't remember there being any brackets ... just a set of nuts and bolts to replace the rivets.

There's something in the OV ad that I never noticed before: "Best when used with differential drop or CV axle spacers. " Has anyone seen such a product?

I thought there was a milled spacer that came with that kit to bolt the bj to when placing under the control arm? Maybe not though. If it is just bolts and nuts and washers, you already have 2 in the upper bj and only need to source 2 more locally.

I already did the upper ball joint relocation with nuts and bolts supplied.

How far out is it?

Enough to bug me visually. I am also worried about uneven tire wear. I can't find the numbers right now but the tech said they were within the allowable specs. Just not good enough for me.

How much are your torsion bars cranked and using the OLV torsion keys?

I just relocated the upper ball joints on my '04 AWD to correct the negative camber from additional torsion bar lift when I went to 4" lift and to prevent the upper control arms from contacting the new Rancho RS9000 front shocks (larger 2.18" diameter shock body from my Bilstein) at full extension. Ball joint relocation gave it some serious positive camber but alignment shop was still able to align to "preferred setting" spec with no problem. I found a heavy-duty truck spring/driveline/aligment shop to do it, seem to be pretty serious about their work. Van drives perfect after alignment, straight steering wheel, no pulling and tires wearing evenly. The previous shop I went to when I had 2" lift took two times to get steering wheel straight and pulling sorted out and it still had noticeable camber difference in front wheels.

My camber angles are 0.5 and 0.3 degrees. I have no drift, pull, uneven wear or other issues. I am using the stock index keys, lifted all the way (minus a tiny bit on one side to make it even).

Are you using the OV re-indexed keys? If so, maybe you just need to let them out a bit.

I am using the re-indexed keys but they aren't cranked or anything. The front sits lower than than the rear and I've got the bolt in the middle hole on the lift shackle. I have no issues with pulling, it drives straight. It just looks pigeon-toed. I will try to post some pic's so you can see what I mean.
I bought a die grinder today just in case it comes to it.

Yeah pics would be great, because if it looks pigeon-toed then that's your toe-in, not camber.

Having trouble figuring out how to post pic's. I am on a mac. Any suggestions?

where are you getting hung up? Did you click "choose file" and then "add the file" when composing a message?

Yeah, pigeon toed definitely isn't camber. Toe-in is easily fixed by an alignment shop, camber not so much if it's already at maximum.

I know squat about AWD's but isn't there a eccentric bolt kit you can buy for those to get more adjustment out of the arm? I almost bought one for my van back in the day then I realized it only worked for AWD control arms.

Or maybe that's what it already has. I have no idea.

The eccentric washers don't give you more range. Adjustment is limited by the elongated bolt holes.

(photos courtesy of lockdoc)