Need little help!

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Topic author
catbones
I am merely driving my van
I am merely driving my van
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed May 29, 2013 8:27 pm

Need little help!

Post by catbones »

Alright, so some people might think I'm crazy but I love Astro's but never needed one. Today, I've pulled a trigger on a 2004 Astro in amazing shape body wise, no rust that is. Interior needs little work like cleaning. Functions, well that is when I'd like to get some help from you guys here, if possible;

1. My fuel guage from time to time shows correct level. Seems like it might be a power issue, is this an easy fix??

2. Power door locks, some times function but keep loosing power. So, sometimes on the driver side I can close the passenger door and the sliding door, then it looks like it looses power to do so if I keep opening and closing using the button. I'm hoping it's just the relay... because the passenger side can close the sliding doors but won't close the driver door. Any suggestions?

3. Now this is a basic of the basics, doesn't even have the overhead information thingie... that I've seen on some. Now, the dome light, if I open the door the light doesn't come on... is that normal??? Also the dome override button, if it's pushed in, the light is "OFF", if the little button is out the light is "ON". Is this also a module/relay thing??

4. Can it be that my cluster is messed up? if I swap the cluster, will my mileage stay... not sure where the mileage is being stored, in the cluster or the computer.

That's pretty much it, I mean this thing has 68k on it, 2004, .. even the spare tire has no rust... I've seen a few Astro/Safaris for sale and their spare tires looked like I would need to be a welder to take it down.

I know I'm new, but thank you ahead for helping, any help. Cheers!

Topic author
catbones
I am merely driving my van
I am merely driving my van
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed May 29, 2013 8:27 pm

Re: Need little help!

Post by catbones »

Some how I'm starting to worry that this might not have been such a good deal.

Is there a way to check the actual mileage compare to the mileage on the cluster?
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Wiley
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Re: Need little help!

Post by Wiley »

catbones wrote:2. Power door locks, some times function but keep loosing power. So, sometimes on the driver side I can close the passenger door and the sliding door, then it looks like it looses power to do so if I keep opening and closing using the button. I'm hoping it's just the relay... because the passenger side can close the sliding doors but won't close the driver door. Any suggestions?

3. Now this is a basic of the basics, doesn't even have the overhead information thingie... that I've seen on some. Now, the dome light, if I open the door the light doesn't come on... is that normal??? Also the dome override button, if it's pushed in, the light is "OFF", if the little button is out the light is "ON". Is this also a module/relay thing??

4. Can it be that my cluster is messed up? if I swap the cluster, will my mileage stay... not sure where the mileage is being stored, in the cluster or the computer.

That's pretty much it, I mean this thing has 68k on it, 2004, .. even the spare tire has no rust... I've seen a few Astro/Safaris for sale and their spare tires looked like I would need to be a welder to take it down.

I know I'm new, but thank you ahead for helping, any help. Cheers!

Regarding your dome light, there are times I cannot figure that thing out. If you press the button 4 times quickly it will turn them off/or turn them on, though it takes me about 20 times for it to work. The Canadian models do not have this feature if I recall.

I just removed my dash to get to the radio, and find that just wiggling the light/dome switch control piece turns them off and on, which leads me to believe it could possibly be a connection there, maybe you have the same bad luck. For example, my dome lights came on when I removed the dash but hooked the switch back up, even though I didnt actually use the switch. When I jiggled it they turned back off/on/off haha.

Just stay positive, be glad you have a rust free van, many dont. 64K is low. I love my Astro but hate Chevy there are too many corners cut which have caused me too many headaches, you just have to keep tackling them one at a time. The engines seem solid, and the performance of the AWD is great, but damn the little things, damn them all. At least they are usually cheap repairs that we can do ourselves thanks to the kind folks on this site.
2guys1truck.com: 2004 AWD Chevy Astro from California to Colombia!
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safari kev
I finally get the smurf thing
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Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:13 pm
Location: St. Louis, Missouri, USA

Re: Need little help!

Post by safari kev »

the power lock issue is broken wires in the door jamb of the dash. I've had so many wires replaced in the power lock wiring that I don't want to think about it. One by one, my door locks stopped working and the wires for lock/ unlock/ controlling the other doors and for the remote controlling the doors broke. I'm got it mostly fixed (except that now the remote doesnt unlock drivers door than everything, it just unlocks everything and sometimes you have to hit the remote buttons alot to make it work). Still, despite the piddly electrical gremlins, my van has been rock solid drivetrain wise. Get a rust free one and take care of it and you will easily get it to 200-400k.
00 safari high top explorer conversion. "shagfari" 235xxx miles on body. 242k on junkyard Jimmy motor.
94 safari hi-top explorer limited. 132k miles.
95 ASTRO choo choo conv. RIP @115K
97 safari slx "surfin' safari" 145k miles RIP
91 safari shorty Tiara conversion. RIP
86 cadillac fleetwood brougham. 67k. It thinks its a hot rod.
83 lesabre limited. 71k miles
66+68 toronados
66 Riviera
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Wiley
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Re: Need little help!

Post by Wiley »

I just fixed my door lock 3-4 days ago, its fairly easy though one of those problem areas common with Chevy.

Remove the plastic trim.
Test the switch wires with a multimeter.
Relace/fix the problem wire.
Done.

You dont need to remove the whole door, just the oval part to get to the switch. 1st remove the 2 torx screws holding the handle on. T25 I think, why chevy couldnt use a normal screw is one of many reasons they piss me off, especially as one of the torx screw is pretty deep, so you need a slim device (I used a torx socket piece, and jammed a flat head screw driver in the socket to turn it). Then remove the screw over by the speaker cover, think that is it, you should be able to remove it, but always be careful when removing paneling, pieces always break off.

Grab a multimeter and figure out how it works. Then you can test each wire by touching the metal pieces behind the switch. The orange wires should have constant power (mine did not, that was the broken wire). The white and blue will only have power when you press the switch to lock/unlock, dont remember which color was for lock or which was unlock, but its easy enough (Dont hold it for too long as you could burn the motor, though there is a 30A "curcuit breaker" to prevent that). If you think its the black ground wire you can use the screw/nut found in the door frame where the window bends as a ground to test the others before replacing that one, simply touching it to the metal door did not work for me. I dont know what the brown wire is for.

Once you find the problem wire you can then test the bunch of wires in the floor by your feet, to make sure the problem is the wire in the door, and not elsewhere. Remove the plastic trim piece and test the corresponding color of your problem wire, I tested both sides of the blue plastic connector, and both ends of the orange wire had power, so the break was in between this and the switch. You can then just replace the whole wire, or you can do as I did and look inside the accordion style black rubber thing that where the wires run from the door to the van, by the hinges. This seems to be where most people have the problem, and sure enough mine was broke there. I soldered them back up, and if I have a problem again will likely just run a new wire.

My van is still apart if you need a pic or two of something, just let me know.
2guys1truck.com: 2004 AWD Chevy Astro from California to Colombia!
want to follow along, or think our paths may cross, Facebook kjswiley

LiftedAWDAstro
I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
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Re: Need little help!

Post by LiftedAWDAstro »

I don't know if you can check the actual mileage at a dealership or not. They might be able to scan the ECM. Otherwise you go by the cluster as it resides in there.
Current rides:
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition

Mileage spreadsheet

Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy

rockiesmike
I am merely driving my van
I am merely driving my van
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jul 25, 2015 9:10 am

Re: Need little help!

Post by rockiesmike »

Wiley wrote:I just fixed my door lock 3-4 days ago, its fairly easy though one of those problem areas common with Chevy.

Remove the plastic trim.
Test the switch wires with a multimeter.
Relace/fix the problem wire.
Done.

You dont need to remove the whole door, just the oval part to get to the switch. 1st remove the 2 torx screws holding the handle on. T25 I think, why chevy couldnt use a normal screw is one of many reasons they piss me off, especially as one of the torx screw is pretty deep, so you need a slim device (I used a torx socket piece, and jammed a flat head screw driver in the socket to turn it). Then remove the screw over by the speaker cover, think that is it, you should be able to remove it, but always be careful when removing paneling, pieces always break off.

Grab a multimeter and figure out how it works. Then you can test each wire by touching the metal pieces behind the switch. The orange wires should have constant power (mine did not, that was the broken wire). The white and blue will only have power when you press the switch to lock/unlock, dont remember which color was for lock or which was unlock, but its easy enough (Dont hold it for too long as you could burn the motor, though there is a 30A "curcuit breaker" to prevent that). If you think its the black ground wire you can use the screw/nut found in the door frame where the window bends as a ground to test the others before replacing that one, simply touching it to the metal door did not work for me. I dont know what the brown wire is for.

Once you find the problem wire you can then test the bunch of wires in the floor by your feet, to make sure the problem is the wire in the door, and not elsewhere. Remove the plastic trim piece and test the corresponding color of your problem wire, I tested both sides of the blue plastic connector, and both ends of the orange wire had power, so the break was in between this and the switch. You can then just replace the whole wire, or you can do as I did and look inside the accordion style black rubber thing that where the wires run from the door to the van, by the hinges. This seems to be where most people have the problem, and sure enough mine was broke there. I soldered them back up, and if I have a problem again will likely just run a new wire.

My van is still apart if you need a pic or two of something, just let me know.
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Wiley
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Re: Need little help!

Post by Wiley »

Welcome to the site rockiesmike, did you have a question looks like you only quoted my old post, you did not add anything. If you d have a question I doubt I remember, but I am sure collectively someone here can figure it out. Good news, my solder job on the orange wire has held all these years lol.
2guys1truck.com: 2004 AWD Chevy Astro from California to Colombia!
want to follow along, or think our paths may cross, Facebook kjswiley

WE7X
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Re: Need little help!

Post by WE7X »

One thing I have found handy working on my van (only 1-1/2 years of ownership ); I keep a small stock of stainless steel #8 oval head sheet metal screws and the matching 'finish washers' handy. Most good quality hardware stores will have them, and the better purveyors of nuts and bolts ( such as McMaster-Carr.com) will have them in stainless steel (so they will be less likely to rust).
It seems invariably, when digging into body panels, some small plastic tab or retainer will snap off or they were already missing when you received your prized vehicle (they are all at least 15 years old now). A nicely placed screw and finish washer ( or two) looks quite good, compared to a flapping panel. It also rattles less.
WE7X aka Rod Johnson
Forest Green Metallic '98 LS AWD
Issaquah, WA
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